Rockets

[yung_flynn]

I feel like enough people probably have pairs from Rockets now and that there is enough chatter about them in the Unknown Japanese Brands thread that they can get their own thread. There is also limited information on the brand that I could easily find, so it would be nice to have it documented as best as possible here. Most of the information below comes from their website and some chatting with Kato-san.

Rockets have been around since 1994 (which is actually longer than Warehouse, the last of the Osaka 5) and were founded by Yasunobu Kato. However, it's unclear to me if they have been producing denim since the beginning. They've historically offered a 1937 cut (0003xx model) a WW2 cut (this s0001xx model), a 1947 (0002xx model), and a 1966 cut (SB-100). Kato-san can also customize a pair for you to cover some of the transitional early war models. WW2 models are offered with either olive HBT or chambray pocket bags. There are also several models of WW2 era jackets with various details, including with and without pocket flaps, although I do not know much about these since the sleeves are too short for me. The primary claim to fame and specialty of Rockets has been their WW2 models and their denim which is known for its heavy lap fades and whiskers. The phrase "Tiger Moustache" on their patches refers to the way in which these whiskers resemble those on a tiger.

Kato-san has spent years analyzing vintage fabric from the era to best replicate it, matching the yarn count of the era. It's unclear where the denim is milled. According to the owner Kato-san, the yarns used in the denim have been dyed more than 12 times, so the denim is very dark and will be slow to fade compared to Warehouse or new Denime. After a wash, the denim is a very dark blue that is almost grey/black in appearance with a gritty and coarse handfeel. It creases easily and quickly gets some electric blue highlights, so I can see how these jeans get such pronounced whiskering. In talking with Kato-san, the 1937 model uses the same denim as the WW2 models sold by Rockets. I'm not sure about the 1947 model (although I would guess that it's also the same) and I'm very unclear what is used for the 1966 model (not sure if I've even seen a photo of a pair).

Four types of cotton thread are used to sew the garments: No. 30, No. 20, No. 8, and No. 6. The waist is seen with thick No. 6 and No. 8 threads, while the selvedge is sewn with No. 6 thread, consistent with Kato-san's vintage models. The hem is wrapped in four pieces as was typical for vintage pairs prior to the 1960's. Threads are dyed orange and yellow based on estimates for the era. The dyes used on the threads are also selected for low fastness, so they will fade along with the denim. Rockets models also come with a red rayon tab labelled "Venus". The tab is designed to twist significantly after washing. Rockets also owns 3 Union Special sewing machines

Rockets have also taken a lot of care to reproduce the style and character of buttons and rivets and buttons of the era. Laurel donut top buttons are used for the WW2 pairs, while iron body buttons are used on the 1937 and 1947 models. WW2 models with chambray pocket bags seem to use iron body buttons for the rest of the fly, while donut buttons are used for the fly of the HBT versions. All buttons are iron and are designed to rust. Front pocket rivets were designed to have a diameter of 10 mm, consistent with vintage rivets. According to the Rockets site, most front rivets used by other brands are 9 mm in diameter. Two types of front rivets are used - copper and iron plated. Hidden rivets are a non-standard shape to capture the shape of those seen on War models. Rockets hand stamps their hidden rivets into the desired shape and then hand engraves them. 

Rockets offers several versions of their models. There is a standard version where all hardware is new. There is also a "Craft" version, where you can select to use already oxidized hardware. Rockets also offers a "Tailor Made" line of models that are more expensive than their standard "Factory Made" models. Taylor Made models are about 15,000 yen more expensive. The 1937 model seems to be sold as Taylor Made with a claim of being sewn on a vintage machine. I chatted with Kato-san, but I wasn't quite able to learn what this meant in terms of final product, so I just went with a standard model for myself.

I will try to add some more details and edit as I have time and learn more. I will also try to locate and cross-post some of the stray pairs found in the WW2 and Unknown Japanese Brands threads here too as I find the time

 

[yung_flynn]

Some details from the Rockets site are pasted below. All taken from Rockets's site. Thorough dissection of original jeans. Ordering needs to be done by Instagram outside of Japan however (probably only thing that I've used IG for personally).

Custom stamped and engraved hidden rivets:

Twisted tab

Front button

Front rivets

1937 model cinch 

[yung_flynn]

Cross-post of my chambray pocket bagged s0001xx before washing.

Cross-post of that same pair (including measurements) after washing.

[Ciabatta]

Nice! Good call on the dedicated thread. Whenever I’m ready for a WWII pair it will definitely be from him. 

[Broark]

@yung_flynn thanks for starting the thread and gathering all these details! I’ve got a pair of the HBT pocket bag 0001xx’s, but I’m curious: how has your pair been stretching?
Lately I’ve been thinking about selling my w36 pair and sizing up to a w38.

[aho]

16 minutes ago, Broark said:

@yung_flynn thanks for starting the thread and gathering all these details! I’ve got a pair of the HBT pocket bag 0001xx’s, but I’m curious: how has your pair been stretching?
Lately I’ve been thinking about selling my w36 pair and sizing up to a w38.

I can measure my 38's for you in a bit! Haven't actually worn mine either since buying as I think I could go up to 40. I'm concerned with crotch blowout, though the fit through the leg otherwise is probably the best out of any jeans I own.

[Broark]

Damn I didn’t realize you also had a pair @aho! Did you get the HBT version of the newer S0001xx with the 2x1 denim pocket bags?

[aho]

Got mine in 2022 so whichever HBT was being used at the time! Will get back to you shortly!

 

[yung_flynn]

@Broark My pair are tagged 32. They started at 16.75” laid flat. After one cold wash and hang dry they shrunk to 15.5”. With wear, another wash, and some more wear, they have equilibrated at 16.1”. They probably would have stretched a bit more if I sized for a tight initial fit but I sized conservatively. As they’ve stretched, the fit has relaxed a bit so that they hang from my hips. 

Kato-San was very helpful with sizing help. I was on the fence between 31 and 32. I told him that I generally prefer jeans that measure 41 cm laid flat and he said that either would work but recommended the 32 because they wouldn’t stretch much further than my waist and would have better balance. I just measured now and they’re 41 cm on the nose. 

[vlad_III]

Any fit pics?

[yung_flynn]

19 minutes ago, vlad_III said:

Any fit pics?

I have a few in WAYWT and a few others that I found. No back pics since the initial wear in the cross post above

Edited Thursday at 02:07 AM by yung_flynn

[vlad_III]

Thanks!

[aho]

@Broark  size 38 measurements BiG style, only one wash + hang dry:

Waist: 18.5”
Front Rise: 13”
Back Rise: 16”
Thigh: 13.75”
Knee: 10.25”
Length: 26”
Leg Opening: 9.25”

Edited Friday at 06:22 PM by aho

[Broark]

Thanks @aho, those measurements look a bit more comfortable to me!