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NoKipple - Official Thread


Megatron1505

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Hi folks, a few fit pics of the Trophy N-1, size XL (42 on the label). I'm about 183cm and weigh 95kg (or more after Christmas). There are more shots here. The sun must've been in a weird spot, it looks like I have less hair than desirable and I'm sure that's not the case  :wacko:.

 

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I think I had a hand in the jeans too........looking great overall sir.

 

Edit: Obviously not literally a hand in your jeans, that would be inappropriate.

Edited by Megatron1505
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I think I had a hand in the jeans too........looking great overall sir.

 

Edit: Obviously not literally a hand in your jeans, that would be inappropriate.

 

So basically, you dressed me...well I guess that's OK but you keep your damn hands to yourself!

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So I went to Bread & Butter earlier this week (http://www.breadandbutter.com/winter2014/home/). Ostensibly to hang out with Jelado who were exhibiting for the first time outside of Japan, but also to just glom up the atmosphere and scene. Here are some pics:

 

Went to say hi to Shane at his store (Burg & Schild)

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He's got a nice space:

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I liked the Five Brothers shirts:

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This is a pop-up (well not so much, an proper store really) by 14oz/Denham/Edwin, called Blue Yard. I'm not a huge fan of the pre-distressed stuff however forensically done but the Denham stuff was pretty nice if you're into that sort of thing:

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Well, duh:

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Obligatory, fleeting, tourist thing:

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The BBB pass was mirrored on one side, I guess it was helpful to check your appearance throughout the day:

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Entrance to BBB at Tempelhof (the old airport):

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Glitzy:

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Trying to capture the scale of the place - it is immense:

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Outside:

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Cute usage of the old baggage reclaim, annoying though - you got given a promo bag with a massively heavy, hard cover brand bible, an extra kilo is a PITA to carry for the whole day:

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Me and Yohei (Jelado):

 

b7hwiJq.jpg

 

 

John Gluckow on the Jelado stand. John is a vintage dealer who is doing some collaborations with Jelado:

 

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Thomas from Denimhunters:

 

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Denimhunters had a nice anatomy of a jean (denim pattern provided by Livid jeans out of Trondheim):

 

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First Arrow's jewellery out of Japan were exhibiting - they do really excellent silver work. Live construction was part of their pitch:

 

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Not typically a Filson fan but I took a snap of this because it is really a heavy tincloth variant (recommended if you like that sort of thing):

 

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I liked Feinschmuck too, jewellery, accessories and leather gear:

 

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Edited by hectic
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This is an XL/42, the fit is perfect for me (193cm/6'4"). I've had a black XL (non-zip) for ages as well; they wear really well, i.e: shape holds, colour is strong post-multiple washes. 

 

I know I'm kinda honour bound to big up on this thread but truly its the nicest sweat I ever had (I've owned a number of JP, niche brand variants).

 

If you want specific measurements let me know but I'll get those up on the website shortly anyway.

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Already posted on the "Shoes..." thread.  Working with Sagara on an MTO valiant boot with Cordovan Vamp & Hell, Cigar pull up shank.  Nothing but positive feedback to give for Sagara.  It has been an absolute pleasure to work with Bagus and Yudha.

Thanks No Kipple for exposing me to such a great company.

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I don't think it is a secret that many of the Japanese brands which we love and and admire draw inspiration from vintage American workwear, if you were to look into the flannels produced by American brands such as Five Brothers, Frostproof and Work N Sport from the 50's right into the 80's you would see a great many familiar patterns, materials and details. So when I was presented with the opportunity to purchase a 70's flannel by the now defunct brand Frostproof which had provided clear inspiration to one of my favourite flannels in years, the Jelado winter flannel, I could not resist putting them side by side for comparison. What follows is my analysis, and more than that it is great lesson in what Jelado do, and why they are so damn good at it.

 

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Jelado are a Tokyo based brand who take their love of vintage clothing very seriously. Their owner Yohei Goto is an avid collector of vintage clothing and has been since working in vintage store as a young student. Where other brands take established designs and either directly reproduce or modernise well known classics, Jelados methods are in many ways subtle and focus on maintaining the look of the vintage garment, whist improving every aspect of cut, quality and design. The other area where Jelado stand out from the crowd is in the garments they choose, rather than just focusing on well known items they also they also select pieces by lesser known and now defunct American manfacturers for the Jelado treatment.
 
To illustrate exactly what Jelado do I have taken one of their winter flannels from their latest collection and done a detailed comparison with a vintage (1970's) flannel by now defunct US brand Frostproof who, along with New Yorks Five Brother brand, made extremely well regarded flannel shirts and workwear from the 1940's up until the 1980's. On first inspection there is absolutely no denying that the shirts look extremely similar, this is purposely done by Jelado as they love the original and would not want to change its aesthetic in any major way, it is only when we look closer that we can see exactly what they have done.
 
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The pockets on the vintage Frostproof shirt are finished to a rounded point, as was popular on work shirts of the time, the Jelado version has flat bottomed pockets as they realise that most of us will at some point keep our phones in this pocket. The tapered pocket end of the vintage shirt could be worn through caused by the eneven pressure of carrying a flat item in a pointed pocket.
 
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The material on first inspection looks identical, the vintage shirt is obviously much softer as it has been nicely worn in over many years but the material on the Jelado shirt is more tightly woven and therefore feels heavier. This has the added bonus of making the shirt more wind resistant and definitely warmer.
 
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Jelado on top
 
The stitch patern on the Jelado shirt is more even, and with a much higher stitch count. This makes each seam far more durable the the Frostproof shirt. Also Jelado use a much more durable double stitch felled seam in far more high wear areas.
 
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Jelado on top.

 

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Jelado

 

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Frostproof

 
The cut of the shirt has been lightly tweaked rather than revolutionised, the Jelado shirt is cut slightly longer in the bod and sleeve, and is a touch more fitted.
 
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Jelado

 

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Frostproof

 

 
The final thoughts on the comparison are that what Jelado do is more evolution than revolution, they take what is already great and make it even better whilst maintaining the aesthetic which made them love the piece in the first place. The make small tweaks to the cut, alter design features and improve the quality of the material and manufacture to give us a superior product.
Edited by Megatron1505
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Hello people, 

 

I've spent a bit of time lurking and making use of the collective knowledge, but this is the first time I've posted. 

 

I've picked up a couple of pieces from the No Kipple guys over the last few months: a pair of Trophy jeans (dirt denim narrow) and a Trophy HBT shirt and thought its about time I gave something back.

Here's a pic of the HBT shirt.

The photo doesn't really do it justice I'm afraid, and a lot of the detail that really make the shirt aren't visible. Needless to say, the quality is top notch. 

 

TrophyHBTamp1607-1_zps5e72c70a.jpg

 

I'm about 1.7m and 70 kg, and typically take a medium, but had to size up to the large; mainly to get a good fit across my shoulders (a common problem for me.) 

 

Whilst I'm here, I should add that all my dealings with Jon from No Kipple have all been really positive: very knowledgeable, seriously helpful and a genuinely good chap! I'll be keeping an eye on what these guys do in the future.  

 

Cheers,

 

Dan

 

edit: pic updated with (slightly) better photo and includes the Trophy Jeans

Edited by dan79
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