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UNDERCOVERISM general discussion thread


bill

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$300 cotton J&MC shirt is serious wtf.. how did t shirts go from $140ish to $300 in less than 1 year?

 

What are you talking about? They were 14 000Y at the UC zozo shop...

 

My speculation is the licensing plays a part, as they are "official" goods and some bands probably charge more than others. They're about $120 in Japan which is still not cheap. I really like the sweat shirts but they're $450 or so and totally sold out.

...JAMC probably told Jun 'yeah use our name on your t-shirts' and that's it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

undercover.533.jpg

A creation by Japanese designer Jun Takahashi for Under Cover during the Autumn/Winter 2007/2008 ready-to-wear collection show in Paris. (Francois Guillot/AFP/Getty Images)

 

Although the purpose of my trip is to see Rei Kawakubo, as well Junya Watanabe and Tao Kurihara, for a piece in the Times Magazine, I paid a visit yesterday to Jun Takahashi of Under Cover. Takahashi has been friendly with Kawakubo for a number of years, since he began writing her letters and she replied. Not surprisingly, Kawakubo is a big supporter of Takahashi’s, as is Rei’s husband Adrian Joffe. How many designers of his generation think conceptually, without following the earlier generation of design mavericks?

I was especially eager to see Jun’s studio, which from the outside looks as if a giant corrugated sea container had been suspended in a neighborhood of lanes and small houses. I was greeted by Yuka Nakamura, from his press office, and we went down a couple of flights of stairs, lined with stuff and bicycles, and found Jun in a large loft-like room where the spreading limbs of a tree trunk occupy one corner. It would be an amazing place to think and work. There were three desks with Macs along one wall, a bank of d.j. equipment at the other end, and in the center was a long white, glass-topped table with partitions lined in silver glitter paper. Jun, who had on a black leather jacket and jeans, is somewhat shy but very friendly and conversational. We talked for awhile about Kawakubo and Comme des Garcons, and when I mentioned how much I liked his winter collection, for its clarity, he smiled and said he thought maybe his work was becoming recognizable. He spoke about the difficulties of satisfying his own desire to make interesting things and keeping up with the six-month cycle of the fashion shows, and said he sometimes thinks about focusing on his stores (he has 30 in Japan) and skipping the Paris collections altogether. I said I hope he doesn’t stop showing in Paris but that I understood his desire to break a pattern. I don’t think he’s really decided anything but at least he has the freedom (and courage) to question what he’s doing—and why.

I asked Jun what he thought of the luxury-goods companies in Europe. He seemed to regard them as something very far away and unrelated. But it’s hard to ignore their presence in Tokyo, from Armani and Dior to Louis Vuitton and Prada. A couple of people told me that many of the big spenders are now from China and Korea. I’ve only been out and about for two days, but I’d describe the look among young women as approval-seeking, post-Chloe. It’s not startling, in other words.

 

After I left Jun’s studio, I walked over to the Under Cover shop. The last time I was there, maybe three years ago, the windows were filled with stacks and stacks of folded clothes, almost as if someone was saying, “Don’t look at me, don’t come in.†Jun now changes the décor of the store about every six months. I loved the way he did the displays—like, three wooden school chairs turned over with a glass table top resting on them. He sells some vintage Under Cover pieces downstairs. I saw a heavy felt jacket from his wonderful show at the Grand Hotel a few seasons ago, and a pair of jeans from around 1999. Across the front, if I saw correctly, were printed the reversed letters S-K-C-O-T-T-U-B. Man, I laughed: So many ways to turn your perspective upside down.

 

http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2007/12/27/here-in-tokyo/

Edited by Deux_Oiseaux
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Wearing pants with a ~36" waist (big butt) and soon to be a true large in tops, I'm wondering if there's much hope in me finding anything in my size for this brand? It seems like undercover pants with a waist that size do not even exist. maybe size 5 if anyone can find them though i havent seen any. Tops, I guess id be size 4?

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Seriously?

 

Maybe people who actually own/wear can chime in but I used to fit a size 4 in anything UC comfortably, now I basically need like a 6 for any hope, even with his knits. Weird thing is I'm pretty much the same size in every other label I've been wearing for the last 5 or so years.

 

Don't get me wrong I love the guy his label his vision of fashion or whatever but the du pretty much makes petite sized clothes across the board now. Fuck.

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  • 2 weeks later...

did the 10ss messenger ever come in forest?

never seen it

only in water

 

A little late but no, backpack only. There were 2 other patterns aside from water for the messenger.

The Dieter Rams silver and a translucent style. I quite liked that season.

Edited by Wekapipo
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I'm looking to pickup the S/S14 leather but i'm having trouble with sizing, I weigh 155lbs and im about 5"9.If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great, or if anyone knows an email contact for undercover.

 

halo,I am 175cm and 69kg, wearing uc leather s/s14 in size2, hope this infor may help u

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Can anyone break down footwear sizing for me?

I've always been hesitant buying shoes off of y!jp because the various listings I see for L and XL jawnz have incongruent US sizing. I've seen L described as size US9-10 or as US10-11, for example.

 

I have a Medium from SS10 and it fits an EU 42 / US 9 pretty perfectly

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Can anyone break down footwear sizing for me?

I've always been hesitant buying shoes off of y!jp because the various listings I see for L and XL jawnz have incongruent US sizing. I've seen L described as size US9-10 or as US10-11, for example.

Hi I wear Nike us10 and UC sz L fits well

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kind of obscure but

 

did anyone else know that the undercover jun takahashi X patti smith (neo boy) was not just a onetime collab for SS09 but rather an ongoing relationship between the two that began before 2004?

 

The actual neoboy poem of which SS09 mens collection was created upon was actually recorded for and recited during the 2004 "but beautiful" show.  the original version of the poem is ancient though from like the late 70s

 

supposedly patti came across some of jun's work through some japanese photographer who had worked with both jun and patti and came to appreciate his aesthetic

 

kinda cool.  one of the true OG's of punk was actually influencing the development of undercover across oceans and continents.

 

she actually was probably into UC before like at least 90% of sufuers and maybe even before me lol

Thanks for the share

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