Rogan vs. Levi's Big E vs. 45rpm vs. Evisu

[flex1]

Im new to this board, but have viewed it frequently. Like a lot of people on this forum I am also a denim Junkie.

I was wondering what is everyone's favorite denim brand and why?

Mine right now is Rogan, they have great washes and very innovative cuts. They wear great and get better with time. I currently own 5 pairs in different washes, all in the original cut.

I also like selvedge denim, but currently I am having troubles finding a great pair, unfortunately I live in Edmonton, Canada and there is very little if any in terms of selvedge denim around. I have also had trouble buying selvedge denim online because the shrinkage factor, and the fact that most selvedge denim that I do see tends to be a classical more tapered 501 type cut, which I am not to fond of, any suggestions. I currently own a pair of Lee X rated selvedge denim that I purchased in London, do 45rpm, Evisu or Big E have cuts that would be similar, and where can they be purchased online? thx.

[peteyross]

I would suggest Howies selvage denim. Check them out on www.howies.co.uk. The jeans are Japanese selvage denim but they are cut more straight/full than Levis 501 models/replicas.

[ringring]

Quote:

Im new to this board, but have viewed it frequently. Like a lot of people on this forum I am also a denim Junkie.

I was wondering what is everyone's favorite denim brand and why?

Mine right now is Rogan, they have great washes and very innovative cuts. They wear great and get better with time. I currently own 5 pairs in different washes, all in the original cut.

I also like selvedge denim, but currently I am having troubles finding a great pair, unfortunately I live in Edmonton, Canada and there is very little if any in terms of selvedge denim around. I have also had trouble buying selvedge denim online because the shrinkage factor, and the fact that most selvedge denim that I do see tends to be a classical more tapered 501 type cut, which I am not to fond of, any suggestions. I currently own a pair of Lee X rated selvedge denim that I purchased in London, do 45rpm, Evisu or Big E have cuts that would be similar, and where can they be purchased online? thx.

--- Original message by flex1 on Jan 10, 2005 07:29 PM

If you're looking for selvage but aren't keen on classic 501 style cut then try Lee's "Cornell" style. Or if you have plenty of money, Blue Blood do (or at least did last season) a loose fitting selvage workpant style. Can't help you for online shops for these I'm afraid.

Welcome to the board BTW.

[ALVIN]

dont mean to steal the thread, but who sells rogan jeans in so cal besides barneys? thanks!

[Serge d Nimes]

The 1947 and 1955 Levi big E repros are pretty regular to loose fitting, and the buckleback ones like the 1901, 1933, and 1937s are a bit baggier. Evisus are pretty baggy too, all except the 0331 type with 4 button fly buttons (which I have.)

Live is too short for bad denim!

Edited by Serge d Nimes on Jan 23, 2005 at 01:44 PM

[hahnstch]

billhallman.com does stock on some rogans and blue bloods

[StrictlyRoca]

what is salvaged denim??

If you're looking for quality denim (of all distresses, weight and cuts) try Jones Clothing in London or Xile Clothing in Edinburgh (UK) www.xileclothing.com

Both are top drawer directional outfitters up there with the best in the world!!!!!

Stocking PRPS, Rogan, Loomstate, Edwin and Blueblood.

I'm currently wearing RARE, EDWIN and TRUE Religion but my next purchase is a pair of Blue Bloods. I think there possibly the best denim on the market at the moment!!!

Evisu pretty common in the UK and you can normally get them on-line at www.oki-ni.com.

Do you know where I can get Blue Blood denim online?

Ciao

[ringring]

Selvage/Selvedge denim is the term commonly used for narrow width shuttle loom fabric (around 34" wide), characterised by it's smooth woven edges.

Pic: http://www.hanon-shop.com/details/viewDetails/1/5EP02/Denim

More pics: http://www.superfuture.com/city/supertalk/index.cfm?page=topic&topicID=1222

Regular width denim (around 56") also has a selvedge, albeit a frayed edge.

Pic: http://www.hanon-shop.com/details/viewDetails/2/PAP04/Denim

More talk on selvage denim here: http://www.superfuture.com/city/supertalk/index.cfm?page=topic&topicID=817&start=1

You can buy Blue Blood online at the site you listed above, XileClothing.com, plus the site billhallman.com, again as listed above by Hahnstch.

Edited by ringring on Feb 3, 2005 at 03:03 AM

[ichiroflex]

Alvin...check www.rogannyc.com for full listing of stores in So Cal

one life

[StrictlyRoca]

RingRing

I'm new to this so thanks for your insight! reading your posts - you know what your talking about!

Have you seen the Cycle African Denim Range - looks the business

I recently saw a pair of PRPS for the first time - their also a great looking jean ... expensive tho

What s your your favourite at the mo and what manufacturer do you think is ahead of the game?

I must admit the 'finish' is important but cut matters as much to me .....

Where on earth did you learn your knowledge?

[ringring]

I've not seen the Cycle African Denims yet. Tell me more.

I don't have favourite jeans or favourite jeans brands. I tell to like aspects of different brands for different things. eg. I was amazed at the quality/price (UK£19/US$35) of some rinse wash Kaihara denim jeans at Uniqlo and at the opposite end of the price scale I've been admiring the attention to detail on Loomstates.

Both are great for different reasons.

My knowledge? - I've been wearing jeans for quite a while LOL. Still learning.

[Guest]

I saw a couple pairs last week - and they seem (excuse my basic knowledge of denim) a really light weight (dry )denim - I'll try for some pictures - I think the denim is from zimbawe. It has a 'crumble' effect to it. The cycle website is www.cycleonweb.com but its under repair at the mo. Not sure about the selvedge qualities of the denim.

I'm quite liking what nineteen48 and kohzo are doing with their denim - plenty of different processes

question for you RingRing (by the way, is your name not a kind of denim process?):

I had a pair of Nudie Flare Glenn Dry - loved them - good fit - wore them for 6 months without washing them (to give them character) - then washed them a couple of times and was disappointed with the result - since then I've stayed away from raw denim - and went for 'pre finished' denim. Is there a correct way of handling raw denim in order that the character floods thru?

[StrictlyRoca]

I saw a couple pairs last week - and they seem (excuse my basic knowledge of denim) a really light weight (dry )denim - I'll try for some pictures - I think the denim is from zimbawe. It has a 'crumble' effect to it. The cycle website is www.cycleonweb.com but its under repair at the mo. Not sure about the selvedge qualities of the denim.

I'm quite liking what nineteen48 and kohzo are doing with their denim - plenty of different processes

question for you RingRing (by the way, is your name not a kind of denim process?):

I had a pair of Nudie Flare Glenn Dry - loved them - good fit - wore them for 6 months without washing them (to give them character) - then washed them a couple of times and was disappointed with the result - since then I've stayed away from raw denim - and went for 'pre finished' denim. Is there a correct way of handling raw denim in order that the character floods thru?

[ringring]

I don't think there is a correct way of wearing raw denim, just do whatever you like to them. The results depend on how much abrasion they get, rather than length of time worn per se, and the results are totally subjective, so don't be disappointed. Keep on wearing and washing them

Ring-Ring is a common term for denim that has ringspun warp and weft.

What is the 'crumble' effect? You mean like the usual semi-permanent 3D creases?

[StrictlyRoca]

Yeah 3D creases sounds right - the're similar to the michiko koshino yen denim ... but the cuts are more conservative - if I can get pictures I'll post ...

On the raw v pre-finished - I think I'm gonna purchase from Attic a pair of Edwin WIN SS5 black raw denim .....

..... give raw denim another chance!

Ciao and thanks

[SmoothDupe]

"I had a pair of Nudie Flare Glenn Dry - loved them - good fit - wore them for 6 months without washing them (to give them character) - then washed them a couple of times and was disappointed with the result - since then I've stayed away from raw denim - and went for 'pre finished' denim. Is there a correct way of handling raw denim in order that the character floods thru?"

Hey StriklyRoca

When it come to Nudies, if the jeans were not japanese selvage, even if you wore them for longer than 6 months, you would not get the wiskers and others characters. When you say you wore them for 6 months, was that for more than 4 days a week all day? By the way the Flare Glenn Dry are Italian Denim.

Blue Spirit, Live long & prosper.

[ringring]

I respectfully beg to differ.

Japanese denim does not hold the monopoly on whiskers. Any denim, selvage or not, japanese or not , will develop whiskers and other wear marks when subjected to abrasion whilst in a raw state. (and to a lesser extent even when pre-washed).

[SmoothDupe]

Hey ringring

My apologies, I did not fully explain what I meant in the last posting. "WITH Nudides", The Japanese denim sizing residue helps an abrasion affect, whereas the Italian denim that they use is a cross hatch and its sizing residue holds texture even a bit longer than the Jpnese dnm. That's all I meant to say.

Blue Spirit, Live long & prosper.

[juxtaposed]

cycle is an italian brand as far as i know it right. for my taste its a little too much distressing and washing (like most italian labels -artifiicial trendy fashion look) . it just doesnt look "natural" any more. but they use zimbabwe cotton. cuts and also details are a little weird tho. they have nice tees BTW.

[urban sprawl]

sorry guys, but rogan jeans dont do it for me. for over 5 years it's the same old story and the worst: the quality is crap: too much resin so the fibres are all dead !

i know you will argue this and tell me about the selvedge-hemp ones etc. but sorry.

frankly, i do like his knits.

[witts]

EDWIN, quality selvage dry denim. it used to be evisu but not any more, theres no quality in them, and you get all the rude boys wearing the fakes

ice cold vintage

[Serge d Nimes]

Rogan don't do it for me either. And whats up with all of those Abercrombie type slogan shirts they do? Their sweaters are really nice though. 45 RPM is just too expensive. for the same price you can get real Big E levis. I have own many many pairs of LVC jeans (probably about 100) and I am really disapointed in the contrast (or lack there of) that I get in their jeans. I think the denim needs more dips in indigo. My older evisus have much better contrast.

Carpe Denim!

[krush021]

i really like 45rpm jeans. and the fact that they have a chain-stitching machine in their basement, and that they'll alter all of your jeans, regardless of brand, makes me like them even more. i have never really cared for rogan much, although, at first i tried (since i heard so much about how great they were), i still don't believe the hype. i, honestly think that their loomstate "mission" has a better cut and attn to detail than any of their overpriced rogan shit. and, always, levis 501 big e. for the price, though, i think i like apc new standard.

RHFIV

[krush021]

ewewew...and sugarcane.

RHFIV

[Brienneoftarth]

yeah rogans fall apart quickly....horrible qaulity...but i picked em up cheap at the sample sale so i wear em...i think my next purchase is nudie veggie indigo

[themdouble]

What the fuck are y'all doin in your jeans?

I have 4 pair Rogan Ethernol's in dif washes & have NEVER had a problem in 3 years!

-Dub

[Caramel]

I don't have a problem with my Rogans Either except I put them in the wash too often and there are now holes and frays(?) in at least 5 places. The cut's still the best, but perhaps most people would need at least 1-2 size up to get the best fit.

Btw, with regards to a post above, Jones Clothing in London Covent Garden (if that's what you're talking about), is gone (unless they reopened elsewhere). The place for Denims these days would be either Liberty, Selfridges or Duffer of St. George.

This is all random.......

[superslim]

Rogan and innovative fit are not synonomous. Sorry. Classic 5 pocket and trouser fits.

XOXO

[themdouble]

Nah I wouldn't say Rogan is "innovative" either.... A bit off the BEATIN path with his seams, pockets, etc. but pretty classic yeah.

I guess I'm successfuul with mine cause I wash denim like once a year?

-Dub

Edited by themdouble on Jun 6, 2005 at 07:18 AM

[RobbertJan]

my favorite at the moment is the nudie regular ralf dry selvedge, very good quality and they fade beautifully. the veggie indigo is also brilliant but pretty expensive. i think i'm going to buy edwin rainbow selvedge next or levi's vintage

RJ-cocaina de pablo Escobar