Heavy Denim

[rakis]

I want to get a pair of unwashed, raw heavy selvedge denim and quite a few are about 14 oz. denim

I noticed that Samurai jeans offers up to 19oz. denim. Anyway have any experience with the 19oz. variety?

I'm considering:-

S510XX19ozII : http://www.samurai-j.com/samurai/samurai_main.html

Any recommendations of other heavy denim would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. Any idea what weight unwashed selvedge denim Nom De Guerre uses. I held it once and it was really thick and heavy.

[minya]

Iron Heart makes 21 oz raw selvage denim. I believe the website is http://www.iron-heart.co.uk

I also know asfberg owns a pair of the 19 oz Samurai jeans. Actually he may have just sold them.

Nom de Guerre did, indeed use 19oz denim for one of their recent selvage jeans. I don't think all of their jeans are that heavyweight though.

[rakis]

Thanks Minya! I will need to do a little research and then decide what to do! I liked the NDG ones because they were soooo thick (I'm a bit of a masochist with raw denim I guess).....but 21 oz.!!! What's the quality on Iron hearts like?

[minya]

Quote: What's the quality on Iron hearts like?

Haven't owned a pair but it looks to be fantastic -- user Guy H owns a pair and has posted pictures, so maybe he'll chime in here.

[sneakeraddict]

go to ironheart.co.uk and you can see pics.

the quality looks to be amazing, but they will take longer to break in I believe,

[rakis]

The link does not seem to be working at the moment. I hope its a temporary glitch. The quality looks awesome. Probably will need to drop 150q or so on these I believe (loosely converted from JPY prices)...the othe pair I'm considering are a pair of Sugarcanes (retailing for about 170q though)....need to read up on those as well....at the rate I'm going at I will probably end with a collection of various coloured selvedge jeans....

[sneakeraddict]

www.ironheart.co.uk

[minya]

Yeah, sorry, I accidentally added a hyphen in there. No hyphen in the real URL.

[rakis]

I did try that but this is what I get:

Not Found

The requested URL / was not found on this server.

Edited by rakis on Mar 26, 2006 at 04:03 PM

[Guest Guy H]

http://www.ironheart.co.uk/html/index.htm

I have a pair of Ironheart and love them.. quality denim. post any questions and I'll do my best to answer them.

I spent a lot of of money on booze, birds and

fast cars. The rest I just squandered - George Best

[rakis]

Thanks alot!

Mmm...still no joy...I'm a Mac user so maybe that is messing it up for me...tried Mozilla and Safari, both without joy...will try on a PC in the office tomrrow....I also just emailed giles for info....out of curiosity are the jeans about 150quid? I like the cut of the Edwin ED47s and absolutely dig the Nudies RR cut....what's the leg style on the Iron hearts? Also, as I can't see pics at the moment, are they both really dark unwashed denim?

Edited by rakis on Mar 26, 2006 at 04:20 PM

Also apologies for revisiting this topic which has similarly been raised before:

http://www.superfuture.com/city/supertalk/index.cfm?page=topic&topicID=9059

Edited by rakis on Mar 26, 2006 at 04:22 PM

[sneakeraddict]

Do they shrink? !! Had to ask.

[Guest Guy H]

Giles runs the site and I have to say the bloke is a gent and his service is second to none. He does everything he can to ensure you get the jeans that are right for you while answering any question you have. I know that sounds like I'm kissing ass but it's true so it should be said. He sent me a pair of 34's but they where too tight. he then sent me a pair of 36's before the 34's had been sent back. I would not expect him to do that every time but I think it shows the way his company works.

Trust me in that if these are jeans you like then you cant go wrong IMHO

I spent a lot of of money on booze, birds and

fast cars. The rest I just squandered - George Best

[Guest Guy H]

Not washed mine yet!! Hope not because if they do I'm selling mine as the 34 leg is perfect now but any shorter and they would have to go. I'm not expecting them to though.

I spent a lot of of money on booze, birds and

fast cars. The rest I just squandered - George Best

[sneakeraddict]

Actually, I did ask him about that I think, and the answer was no.

I cant imagine a denim that thick shrinking much to be honest.

I do intend to buy some once funds allow.

Do you think they will take forever and a day to get any kind of hige / knees ?

[Guest Guy H]

Quote:

Thanks alot!

Mmm...still no joy...I'm a Mac user so maybe that is messing it up for me...tried Mozilla and Safari, both without joy...will try on a PC in the office tomrrow....I also just emailed giles for info....out of curiosity are the jeans about 150quid? I like the cut of the Edwin ED47s and absolutely dig the Nudies RR cut....what's the leg style on the Iron hearts? Also, as I can't see pics at the moment, are they both really dark unwashed denim?

Edited by rakis on Mar 26, 2006 at 04:20 PM

Also apologies for revisiting this topic which has similarly been raised before:

http://www.superfuture.com/city/supertalk/index.cfm?page=topic&topicID=9059

Edited by rakis on Mar 26, 2006 at 04:22 PM

--- Original message by rakis on Mar 26, 2006 04:16 PM

stright leg. 501 esque fit. not baggy. I'll try post pics tomorrow as I have work in a few hours. The weave of the denim means although quite dark the white cotton gives a nice colour. you need to see pics though.

I spent a lot of of money on booze, birds and

fast cars. The rest I just squandered - George Best

[Guest Guy H]

Quote:

Actually, I did ask him about that I think, and the answer was no.

I cant imagine a denim that thick shrinking much to be honest.

I do intend to buy some once funds allow.

Do you think they will take forever and a day to get any kind of hige / knees ?

--- Original message by sneakeraddict on Mar 26, 2006 04:25 PM

hell yeah they will take some wear to get some fade behind the knees etc but there is fade on the rear pockets etc. well worth it.. I love the denim and the jeans as a whole. will reply to any more questions tomorrow.

I spent a lot of of money on booze, birds and

fast cars. The rest I just squandered - George Best

[rakis]

Sounds good enough for me! Just checked out the other predecessor thread and must say, great shots of your Ironhearts! I am getting really excited about these....before I get too excited, how much are they (incl. shipping within the uk)?

[sneakeraddict]

they range from around £140 - 170, which prices include UK postage.

the higher prices are for the additional silver rivets, selvedge etc

[sfiction]

i'm just wondering, would ironheart 21oz denim be too hot for a tropical climate like that of Asia? I live in Singapore, and that's the only thing holding me back from ordering a pair.

[lek]

I have a 17oz S0110XJ & I am also in Singapore, so I think yeah, 21oz is probably a bit too hardcore for our 'sunny' weather .....

[asfberg]

Quote:

Iron Heart makes 21 oz raw selvage denim. I believe the website is http://www.iron-heart.co.uk

I also know asfberg owns a pair of the 19 oz Samurai jeans. Actually he may have just sold them.

Nom de Guerre did, indeed use 19oz denim for one of their recent selvage jeans. I don't think all of their jeans are that heavyweight though.

--- Original message by minya on Mar 26, 2006 03:36 PM

still have my 19oz samurais - wear them constantly

they're really heavy and rough

cut is '47 501, a little looser than ironheart

they are stf and shrank a lot in a hot soak

i believe the ironheart are prewashed and while heavier are nowhere near as rough

if you're in the uk i'd try the ironhearts first

i'm in new york and will only be able to wear them until about may, at which point it should be too warm for them

[rakis]

I was in Singapore in Feb and with my Edwins ED47s and Nudies, I was struggling in the humidity....of course I was wearing them raw and unwashed...but 21oz raw and unwashed is pretty hardcore for Singapore.....and they will smell....mmmmm.....I won't do it on those grounds....a Maharishi bonsai camo cotton snopant is definitely much more practical and comfortable...or just good ol berms'....

Edited by rakis on Mar 27, 2006 at 07:12 AM

[Guest Guy H]

I wont be wearing mine in the summer months in the UK.... and we hardly even see a summer!

Only regret I have about my IronHearts is that they are a 34 leg..... was all that was available when I got mine. The 36 would be my preference.

I spent a lot of of money on booze, birds and

fast cars. The rest I just squandered - George Best

[tweeds]

On Singapore: don't do it. Or if you do do it, stay far, far away from me. I don't want to smell any 21oz-strong-sweat-stench. Lighter denim can certainly be done, though, if you think you can stand not washing it for awhile.

[rakis]

I've had an exchange of e-mails with Giles of Iron Heart and he told me that the jeans are not "unwashed" as they have been washed at least once.....so if I understand it correctly, the jeans are washed, 21oz. selvedge denim.

Guy, how does the one wash denim compare to the unwashed ones you may have? My intention is not to wash at all but dry clean as I personally prefer to wear unwashed denim.

Anybody can comment on this i.e. how does a single wash compare with totally unwashed selvedge denim?

Edited by rakis on Mar 27, 2006 at 08:26 AM

[old viking ring]

My Ironhearts are my favorite jean. I have only wore them once but they are very comfortable and I did notice that they didn't seem hot, maybe because the way they are woven tends to give pretty good airflow. They did come in a one wash state, not really stiff, and I soaked them for 4 hours and spin rinsed and threw them in the dryer (all inside out of course!) and they are already developing into a nice jean. They never shrank, I sized down and the waist is slightly loose, tighter thru the hips, just how I like.

Just get em and wear em!

[ringring]

rakis : "Anybody can comment on this i.e. how does a single wash compare with totally unwashed selvedge denim? "

Washed jeans will be softer, due to the removal of sizing (starch) and will have most of/all the shrinkage accounted for.

Not just the length and width of the jeans but also in the stitching. The twin stitching will show peaks and troughs and the hems will have roping (particularly if they have been chain stitched with 100% cotton thread). So the wear on these areas will also produce more high-lows in colour tones.

Non sanforized/anti skewed twill weave jeans will also show the classic twisted seams on the legs.

Edited by ringring on Mar 27, 2006 at 09:07 AM

[Guest Guy H]

The guys have already answered your questions above

I spent a lot of of money on booze, birds and

fast cars. The rest I just squandered - George Best

[rakis]

Cheers everyone....I need to actually absorb what RingRing has just said so I'm going to go away, read more on this and then decide.....sounds luscious but I am intent on getting unwashed 21oz denim so that I can break them in (over time).....