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Made my first pair of selvage jeans!!


denimotaku

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Hey sufu junkies, just made my first pair of selvage jeans.. its a slim straight 14oz japanese black slevage . Fabric from Nihon Menpu.

These are my third jeans ever made, but first made from a pattern i created myself. These are actually for my student collection for my fashion design course.. I have since made a few other jeans, a jacket and some shirts. Let me know what you guys think or if you had any questions about the making of jeans.

here are some photos of the production process. i'll place up photos of the garment later.. sorry i think the photos are quite small

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the hems are chainstitched =).. if any of you guys are from sydney and want anything chainstitched.. let me know, we can arrange something.. we've gone too long without someone to do it down here.

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cheers, thanks for the replies.. i'll upload more pics later on this afternoon.. i have to head out to work.. the jeans are a size 34.. im a 30 =(.. i will be having my parade in 2 weeks and the model is a size 34.. so i can try them on.. but they would like baggy on me.. i will post more detailed.. and larger pics tonight.

in the mean time.. here are some photos of the jacket i made.. it's not selvage(crucify me) but the fabric itself had an interesting brown on the weft which i though once it fades will look wicked. It's a slim tailored cut with a stand up collar.. all stitching was done single needle.. i love the hand sewn imperfect finish this gives.. rather than doing twin needle..

these are bigger pics =)

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nice work, looks very neat and professionally done! nice to see a denim jacket with a contemporary fit, what have you lined the collar with?

cheers, the collar is actually just lined with the same denim fabric. in the photo it looks different but i think that's just the lighting.. the collar is fused with two different types of fusing. one heavier duty, the other regular. i needed it to stand up. its only 3.5cm high though. i was originally going to line the collar with a slubby striped cotton fabric that i used for one of my shirts. might be good to do one in the future...

a lot of my inspiration comes from vintage denim and the detailing that the Japanese are obsessed with. however im a small guy so lots of the vintage garments make me look like a rapper wannabe. i prefer more modern cuts and fits with vintage detailing.. hidden rivets, chainstitch, construction etc.

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appreciate the kind words all.. thanks for taking the time to post up.

here are some fit pics of both garments and some detailed photos.. the lighting in my room is sort of yellow. so the lighting may be a bit weird.

the jeans... thought it'd get some fit pics with some machines in the photo.. these are the work horses that sew through this heavy stuff after all..

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hope they're big enough =D

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and no some of the jacket.. the jeans are a size 34 and im a 30.. they look like straight legs on me rather than slim..

the jacket is a medium... im a small.. again.. looking like a rapper.

here are some of the jacket

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this is how i personally like to rock it.

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back to sewing. have two more garments to make.. let me know what you guys think.. cheers

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Repped

That jacket is nicely cut, and the seam work looks excellent ( I love the slanted pocket on the front). It really gives you more of an appreciation for good tailoring and raw denim when a denim head shows how he makes his own gear.

Posts like these make for interesting reading/pic viewing

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thanks for the rep =) you've popped my rep cherry.

i am thinking of creating a few of these jackets if people were keen.. i'm quite interested as to what sorts of fabric people would want. STF? sanforized, selvage?, slubby or more modern denim. i personally love looking at different fabric suppliers finding one off denim with characteristics you wouldn't find in your conventional stuff.. (i still love the classics though don't get me wrong)

for instance the denim on that jacket looks like it has a matte sort of finish in person. from different view and angles it will shine as well as appear dull and matte. hence why for the front pocket i ran the grain of the fabric the other way.. sort of hard to capture that effect on camera.

still interested to see how they fade though. will have to wear in after the parade.

thanks catchforusthefoxes.. so eager to get it over and done with. will have the freedom to start playing around with patterns and construction methods since i will have more time.

cheers for reading...

Curious, how long does it take you to make a single pair of jeans or jacket, excluding the pattern-making?

it usually depends how much sleep i've had.. a pair of jeans usually dont take longer than one day to complete from the cutting phase to the rivets. however sometimes i've dealt with very heavy fabrics that require a bit more attention when constructing.. the machines i bought were what i could afford on my salary.. so all are second hand. some can eat up the heavy stuff like the union specials.. while others need a bit more time to work with.

the jacket is a lot faster. maybe half the time of the jeans. it takes longer though when im using only a single needle for all the twin stitch details.. but i always prefer the end result.

haha sorry i can talk all day about this.. i'll probably end it here..

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