Jil Sander Womens A/W 2009

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[sawyer]

from style.com...

MILAN, February 27, 2009

By Sarah Mower

Total clarity of vision and superb quality were the two elements that magnetized Jil Sander addicts for 20 years. They were back in full force at the beginning of Raf Simons' Fall show, demonstrating to all that the power of a spare double-faced cashmere coat over a simple turtleneck dress or a camel coat with narrow navy pants is undiminished. It was, quite deliberately, classic Sander, relying on nothing more than the visual beauty of spare proportions, perfectly tailored raised seams, covetable fabric, and a flat shoe—in a bright color to amp up the modernity. For a moment, it was a serene outbreak of sanity, when elevated design and purposeful fashion were, for once, walking in step. "This is Jil heritage," Simons said later. "I like it and it's always there, but sometimes we don't show it."

Yet beneath the calm and the promise there was an unspoken drama unfolding offstage—the homage to the label's founder was in a way the final act at the end of an era. The atelier in Hamburg—which has been working continuously to produce Sander's samples even after Jil departed—is set to close, dispersing the skilled workers who built the house product. There was no official announcement of this, but at the end of the show an emotional Simons brought out Sander's head of atelier, Christel Von Kiedrowski, to share his bow.

But before that happened, there was part two of the collection to take in: the segment in which Simons delivered his own vision for taking the brand forward. For a few seconds, the room fell into darkness, punctuated by colored flashing lights. Then he sent in clothes inspired by the mid-century French ceramicist Pol Chambost: shapes with sculptural curves, fold-back flanges, and spiraling, molded volumes. The Chambost references were in the glimpses of color—green, orange, yellow—flashing inside a funnel neck, a dipping hemline, or a peeled-away back view. As experiments in form, some looked awkward, literally vaselike, and seemingly not attuned to female figure or movement. Others, like the black dresses with flying points shooting off one shoulder, touched an elegance that could believably stand up at a cocktail party. In the broader context of fashion, it bore similarities to the work the likes of Roland Mouret and Nicolas Ghesquière have been doing, but it showed that Simons is ambitious to find his own way of designing for women. How hard he will find it to continue that degree of research without the resource of the Sander atelier remains to be seen. But with this collection he may have taught himself a lesson. If he can maintain the level of pragmatic clarity he demonstrated at the beginning, he will really keep his customers happy.

[mr fluffernutter]

this pic is good:

I think I missed one look in my post but I'm not sure which one. I hink there should be 55 looks?

edit: ^thanks for posting that sawya

[DJ_Flame]

Womens is better than Mens.

[6ixes&7evens]

this is good i love the majority of it. i wish i could meet a classy female that wears jil

[redgrail]

Raf is still not really comfortable with women, but I quite like this collection. Some of it is really quite awkward, and clearly designed without thought towards who would be wearing the piece...But on the whole, quite on point. Not trendy, but very Jil.

That last dress that diamonds posted is by far my favorite. Fucking awesome. If I had the means, my ladyfriend would be getting it tomorrow.

[mr fluffernutter]

kodiak you ruin everything

[sawyer]

I guess the menswear should have been a clue, but Raf has really been exploring more structured silhouettes. I like it. He draws some dynamic lines, reminds me of that panel tank from way back.

[U MAD]

this is pretty killer I like it.

[geekbonchic]

Best Jil womens in a while. The choice of fabrics is what really made this collection for me: starched wools, jerseys, lots of textile tech combined with just really masterful cuts.

this is good i love the majority of it. i wish i could meet a classy female that wears jil

My favorite lesbian, Ellen, wears Jil. In one of the few times she's ever spoken about clothing, she mentioned that she wears a crapload of Jil.

[Guest Phrost]

i don't like the over sized exaggerated hourglass silhouettes, but overall this is dope. a lot of it reminds me of earlier hussein chalayan

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[cotonblanc]

why is she crying? :\

[mr fluffernutter]

why is she cryingggg

[horriblyjollyjinx]

I didn't quite get it, is the show divided in two parts, one in classic Jil style and one that is Raf's development of it, starting with this dress in diamonds' post?

I like the latter anyway.

[djrajio]

I really like this. We need more crying models.

[juliaN.]

i like this...very tilda swinton

the footwear is very sexy

wow never thought i'd be applying that word to Jil Sander collections

[mr fluffernutter]

I didn't quite get it, is the show divided in two parts, one in classic Jil style and one that is Raf's development of it,.

yes .

[evisu 2000]

jjMfQG4DejQ

[hapsical]

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Edited July 24, 2014 by hapsical

[ProfMonnitoff]

the guy from jak&jil really really liked it for some reason. i thought it was decent but not groundbreaking.

http://jakandjil.com/blog/?p=1416

[hapsical]

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Edited July 24, 2014 by hapsical