Dior Homme FW 09.10 Paris

[Guest jhaime9]

well-born teenagers? so what? it's an industry, and a client is a client.

I don't think KVA has much power at Dior.

so Dior should abandon their largest ever consumer base, because KVA just so happens to neglect them with his designs that echo everybody else on the circuit?

business is business, i would have thought LVMH of all groups would be well aware of that...

as for KVA's power, he has position, he has resources, so he shouldn't evade his dependencies..

he's shaken an incredibly successful line to its roots & re-planted it with poison, time for him to go.

[ProfMonnitoff]

as much as i want to hate KVA, his own AW09 is actually not that bad.

this on the other hand is garbage.

[beberthur]

so Dior should abandon their largest ever consumer base, because KVA just so happens to neglect them with his designs that echo everybody else on the circuit?

business is business, i would have thought LVMH of all groups would be well aware of that...

as for KVA's power, he has position, he has resources, so he shouldn't evade his dependencies..

he's shaken an incredibly successful line to its roots & re-planted it with poison, time for him to go.

but what do you call the "largest consumer base"?

Dior Homme has never sold so well, every cool kid has a pair of jeans and sneakers. It's just targeted at younger consumers than before, but it's certainly as successful as before, if not more.

[ejm285]

Yeah, well diesel black gold was a total ripoff of Rick Owens. If you look at the Luster collection, you notice a lot of the drapery, leather embellishments, and belt accessorization is similiar to KVAs collection...

i know what you mean his line was reminiscent to luster, but that doesn't mean i liked it. i've been looking at his mainline over and over but i'm not stunned, i feel like its lacking something.

[Mr Calvin Oscar]

but what do you call the "largest consumer base"?

Dior Homme has never sold so well, every cool kid has a pair of jeans and sneakers. It's just targeted at younger consumers than before, but it's certainly as successful as before, if not more.

i always wondered how people could say things like this without any evidence

[ProfMonnitoff]

but what do you call the "largest consumer base"?

Dior Homme has never sold so well, every cool kid has a pair of jeans and sneakers. It's just targeted at younger consumers than before, but it's certainly as successful as before, if not more.

i know 18 year olds who are draped up head to toe in dh and are no longer buying it

[Guest jhaime9]

i always wondered how people could say things like this without any evidence

haha, i was going to say something, but i had a feeling my words were falling on deaf ears...

i'm just going on the negative reaction from die-hard Hedi Dior fans, who are despondent since KVA took over, that's numerous forum boards & blogs...

i'm not disputing KVA has manifested a new audience, but he has taken the core that Hedi built & destroyed it...the collection is no diff to anything else out there, it doesn't capture the stereotypical, London youthful movement anymore; which is the platform the collections were originally constructed from under Hedi...

http://www.dazeddigital.com/Fashion/article/1541/1/Hedi_Slimanes_London_Teenage_Portfolio

there's the evidence & read the comments in response to the article...

Hedi manufactured one mans constricted view of a suburban niche in my opinion, with an exaggerated accent, people bought into it & it sold like candy floss at a kids birthday party.

under KVA, the hangover & party clean-up is now into it's what? 4th season...5th?

[ledger]

after seeing the first set of pictures i was like yep dh is dead and buried but then the second pics actually made me change my mind and i kinda actually liked em.

[djrajio]

i know what you mean his line was reminiscent to luster, but that doesn't mean i liked it. i've been looking at his mainline over and over but i'm not stunned, i feel like its lacking something.

WTF?

When did I ever suggest that you liked it?

Get over yourself kid.

[juliaN.]

i think KVA's sales are fine

still see a lot of people out on the street wearing his Dior shit...

[ejm285]

from fashionista:

Kris Van Assche Replaced with Gareth Pugh?

Jan 27, 2009 @ 6:42am

"Everyone’s wondering why Delphine Arnault - Bernard’s daughter - was front row at Gareth Pugh this week, sparking rumors that LVMH is gearing up to add the young designer to their luxury constellation.

So here’s the other part to that rumor:

We hear that not only has Gareth already joined LVMH, but he’s set to do so as Kris Van Assche’s replacement at Dior Homme (no word on where KVA will go).

And we’ll all read about it very soon - Vogue Nippon has a piece coming out soon that details the move."

[FunkyFrenchy]

think what you want, i'm going to cop that...

gareth pugh at Dior?

that could be cool...

he has more steez than KVA with his stupid dirty white hitop sneakers....

[kiya]

KVA x B.Son

That's what the shit looks like, and it's not pretty.

[deknarok]

I think DH by hedi is cool but KVA not good

[newaesthetic]

KVA been lurkin tha Glennie.

I don't think it's the worst of his lineups since he replaced Hedi, but he is still not living up to that standard. That being said, people who just automatically write this collection off on the grounds of it still being KVA will miss out on a few nice pieces. The problem is there's just not many of them.

[justinonfire]

Gareth will be steering the Dior ship by years end

Parle

[suckmydior]

the coats are nice and a few accessoires are good but KVA doesnt have "it". He tried time and time again I will give him that. KVA is a great assistant with alot of creativity but he lacks the knowlege to align the pieces to complete the puzzle.

[jeepster]

the coats are nice and a few accessoires are good but KVA doesnt have "it". He tried time and time again I will give him that. KVA is a great assistant with alot of creativity but he lacks the knowlege to align the pieces to complete the puzzle.

thanks for your in-depth expert analysis.

[Guest jhaime9]

Gareth will be steering the Dior ship by years end

Parle

Dior Vs. 'the matrix'

not a direction the house should be looking to explore...

[juliaN.]

thanks for your in-depth expert analysis.

his screenname is fucking great

very latter hedi-era DH MSN Group buying/selling section & sizing questions steez

[masuerte]

I will be looking forward for the asymmetric long coat to arrive at my local dior on ridiculous sale :: crosses fingers that fewer people will buy into this season ::

and as for gareth pugh, anyone who dresses Minogue can dress me...

um... maybe I'm going to be sorry saying this but I hope he doesn't let dior reign in his aesthetic. I'm curious but cannot imagine what he will do with menswear. I think he already has a fall 2009 collection (That I haven't seen yet).

[sawyer]

KVA's own fw09 mainline is an improvement on the last few seasons of his collected work, maybe he's bouncing back

[malaesthetique]

KVA's own fw09 mainline is an improvement on the last few seasons of his collected work, maybe he's bouncing back

I have to agree with sawyer. New KVA is a big improvement and superior to the DH line. The juxtaposition of dandy-esque draped vests and jackets with a militant color pallete and styling works well together. Invisible in the runway shots, some of his basic jackets feature raw razor cut edges and are constructed of stiff felted wool, which does not create a fold on the lapels but more of a curl with sharp angles. Interesting stuff.

There are also some pieces/concepts which are carried over or are typical quirky KVA, like a shirt with a contrasting tie shape constructed in the body or a dinner jacket with cinched sleeves. Still terribly fruity but at least its continuous with his past. He has also managed to reinvent his signature peice, the waistcoat, by adorning them with decadent drapes and belted closures. He has definitely exhibited a mature evolution away from his bad reputation for tacky gay and arbitrary details. Personally its shit I could never wear but I give him credit for elaborating and refining his aesthetique into something new and different.

Dont know if its been already posted, but there are also two new styles of sneakers which have been written up on selectism:

http://www.selectism.com/news/2009/01/28/kris-van-assche-footwear-for-autumnwinter-2009/

Good news is the price points are down this season: roughly 440 usd retail.

Take that Lanvin.

Bad news is, they are assembled in Croatia. Quality still seems commensurate with previous seasons as far as i could tell after handling them.

[Servo2000]

Those hightops actually aren't awful - if the top section had been incorporated into the bottom better rather than looking a bit on the arbitrary side I might have been more interested.

[malaesthetique]

Those hightops actually aren't awful - if the top section had been incorporated into the bottom better rather than looking a bit on the arbitrary side I might have been more interested.

Yeah, I hear you, but they're meant to be worn folded over in which case it doesn't look as arbitrary. My favs are the velcro highs, which are semi convertable: the panel that the straps pass through is removable for a different look, though they look better with it on imo.

[suckmydior]

thanks for your in-depth expert analysis.

anytime ;]

[larssss]

the coats are nice and a few accessoires are good but KVA doesnt have "it".

Abe (Grandpa) Simpson: I used to be with it, but then they changed what "it" was. Now, what I'm with isn't it, and what's "it" seems weird and scary to me.

[Guest Lovelex]

Hi, does someone know where i can get this jacket from the FW 09 collection ?

[Guest Lovelex]

buummpppp?

[azrael0027]

i only pick the bee item from dior since hedi left..