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Yohji Yamamoto F/W 09.10 Paris


fallen angels

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the YY Pour Homme label seems to be stronger in its spring collections than its f/w ones as of late, unlike the womens which is consistently ace.

even comparing the just passed f/w 08 stuff in stores and the new s/s 09, the quality (and resulting pricepoints) are higher for the latter, and even the Joyce sales staff pointed this out when I discussed this with him.

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the best looks = che guevara, the basic black hat/jacket/t-shirt/baggy pants/shoes look and the pajamas basquiat shit

i am not feeling that Yohji interpretation of manskirt sequence. the boxers shit is retarded (bad kind)

i also think some of the details are a bit superfluous like the badges or the upturned white undercollar on those jackets. Dunno why Yohji been adding those small things that ruin a perfectly good garment so often as of late. There were some horrid examples of this in the just passed f/w 08.

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with the exception of the heavier knit sequence, this doesn't really feel very winter-ish...a lot of those jackets look light as fuck

odd...a lot of this season's stuff just don't feel season appropriate. Like some of Dries...short sleeves? wtf i don't think some of those outfits would last a Toronto august night.

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6.jpg

I didn't mind the boxer fit think here. Kinda worked like color blocking i've seen. This look was nice though

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since rajio posted the Tim Blanks review on N(N) i figure i'd drop the YY one here, it is pretty funny. I heartily disagree with rach2jlc's comment once that Tim always talks negatively when reviewing Yohji's collections...I never saw it that way, it struck me more as tongue-in-cheek teasing... although I can see how some past comments could be seen as picking on. I think Tim understands that YY has long been on his own channel and doesn't operate within the noise of the rest of the fashion world anyway...

January 22, 2009

Yohji Yamamoto's seasonal analyses of the trials and tribulations of modern man rarely yield anything that is less than thought-provoking. In recent seasons, Yohji Man has been by turn defiant and distracted. Here, he seemed exhausted—or, at the very least, ready to take to his bed. One character ambled down the catwalk in striped pajamas, fluffy slippers, and a big hooded robe, like he was popping out to the local boulangerie for his Sunday morning baguette. Hang on—he'd already bought it. There it was, under his arm. Other bedroom references included the quilted comforter transmogrified into a jacket, and the bathrobe doing double duty as an overcoat. The idea of insidewear turned outside was pursued in striped boxer shorts worn over trousers. Most of them were printed with growling big cats. Down, Tiger! (Coats were also worn inside out. May we assume the subtext here is that the wearer has nothing to hide? Not an item we can expect to see Bernard Madoff wearing anytime soon, then.)

But the definitive piece in the collection was the skort, the kiltlike combination of skirt and shorts that is rapidly turning into a modern classic. It definitely looked that way in combination with Yohji's oversize jacket, as a new kind of urban tribal uniform. By the way, a shout-out to the knitwear. Huge swathes of wool are a trend this season, and I can't imagine them getting any huger than Yohji's cardigan coat over an equally chunky sweater.

— Tim Blanks

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