How do you rate tsubi jeans...

[john11f]

for men?....How much would be retail price and would it be comparable to Nudie, APC or Sugar Canes? Are they made of selvage? What sort of cut do they have?

[cheesydude]

live in australia, nearly everyone wears em here, kinda OD'd they look good for hte first

fortnight then they stretch and become funny looking, , not selvege, price here its about the same as nudies..250-350 AUD is usual price for em

[john11f]

So, I guess it's no good considering it's not selvage and its priced like one. It's mainstream in Australia now? How about Imperial clothing?

[dutchxoven]

tsubis have been strong in australia for like 2 years, at least...when i lived there everyone rocked them.

.......and THEN i pulled out.

[haptronic]

tsubis have been big in nz, for a couple of years also. i think comparing them to nudie etc is way off track, think more like PDC, Earnest cut & sewn, premium washed jeans.

Then keep in mind that oz gave the world AC/DC,[i.e- they are way more rock and roll].

some are good some are v.bad.

Johninger seems to know a bit about imperials.

for alook at tsubis try here

http://search.ebay.com.au/search/search.dll?MfcISAPICommand=GetResult&ht=1&shortcut=0&from=R41&query=tsubi&category0=&Submit=Search

Edited by haptronic on Oct 31, 2005 at 11:45 AM

[cheesydude]

yeh tsubi is in liek the biggest chainstore for street fashion in australia, your equivalent to like urban outfitters ??

dun get me wrong though their jeans do look pretty good b4 they stretch

[himatey]

tsubi is more like the equivelent to 7 for all mankind

they look better on the ladies than the fellas imo..

[Circa]

Any opinions on Nobody jeans? Supposedly same company as Tsubi. Washes are similar but they use selvedge denim.

[haptronic]

circa

Nobody is from Melbourne afaik. Tsubi is from sydney.

Australia has it's own denim mills, and has for ever. I still sometimes see Lee's with the UNION MADE button, and the inside tag says made in australia, All the 501s I got in the early 90's were made in Australia. I think these guys no what they are doing.

[andewhall]

Yeah good call Hap. A buddy of mine worked in the cotton feilds in Australia, out in the wot wots. Said it was dry dusty work, 7 days a week, long hours, only one pub in town....that sort of thing.

http://photobucket.com/albums/y278/andewhall/

[haptronic]

I didn't even know they had cotton fields. Lol of course.

[andewhall]

^^^Yeah I didn't either untill me mate got a job picking it. I guess cotton needs a dry climate to grow successfully?

http://photobucket.com/albums/y278/andewhall/

[nwhysee]

Nobody denim? A girl pal of mine has a pair (which involved me staring at her ass), but shes not the most fashion conscientious person. Guess i underestimated her.

[Circa]

Thanks for the clarification Haptronic.

Aside from the resemblance to Tsubi, from the pieces I've seen the Nobody stuff (jeans) seem pretty great. They make a jean which looks similar to the Tsubi dee dee but in a nice weighty selvedge denim.

[johninger]

To be honest, im not a fan of tsubi. As far as it being a premium line of denim i do not agree. Is a remnant of the sort of post-punk grunge thing everyone went through a couple of years back. Too manufactured, the washes are too over the top and look so fake, tsubi will be equivalent of acid wash jeans in ten years time, when we have year 00's parties everyone will turn up in tsubi jeans and laugh at each other

Plus their construction is absolutely lousy, my friend had a pair that lasted less than five months of intermittent wearing.

Nobody seems a little better, i've only seen bits and pieces of it. Was not very big last time i was in Australia. And they have only a small range in Japan.

One point though, it doesnt seem right to wash/distress selvage denim heavily. Why go to the extra expense and trouble of having beautiful denim to just grind/brush/paint/rip the living daylights out of it.

I personally think neither brand is anywhere near the likes of nudie, edwin, LVC etc. They should not be considered as premium denim lines, maybe more trendy fashion items.

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss

[johninger]

PS there is no such thing as australian denim anymore.

hap you mentioned australian denim, they only had one mill producing for the last five-ten years and it shut recently.

I colleague of mine works with a Chinese weaving company that has swallowed up some of its assets.

There are very few textile mills producing anywhere in the western world these days, especially such margin dependent goods as denim...

Off topic but even much of "Japanese" denim, is produced off shore and just marketed through Japan, i believe this is what Bradmill (australian denim producer) do!

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss

[andewhall]

^^ hey man, check out the Bradmill website, I checked it out this morning. Looks like they are making sweet denim to me

http://photobucket.com/albums/y278/andewhall/

[johninger]

Their mill is totally shut down. Their rope dyeing machine was shipped out of there recently. They have no capacity to make denim in Australia at all anymore.

I think they are trying to keep it on the quiet but basically they ship the denim in and market it from Australia.

It is a lesson in globalisation boys and girls, that a country that produces some of the highest quality cotton in the world ships most of their product out to get made up and then back in usually as a finished garment. With the majority of the profit made outside of said country.

Plus i never liked Bradmill denim in the first place, they were never forward thinking enough to compete with Italians and never good enough at the basics too compete with Japanese/ Americans and never cheap enough to compete with sub-continent/mainland asia.

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss

[haptronic]

thanks for the info update john. always [well almost always] informative.

I should i have said about the tsubis i only like the black overdye [ im too short to wear pre aged jeans anyway].

i was after a black skin tight jean for 2 years and the joeys fitted the bill perfectly, still havent seen a better one.

[johninger]

fair enough, dont get me wrong they definitely have hit the nail on the head. Probably the most successful brand to come out of that grunge look. Well done to them I say.

My opinion is they are horribly made jeans though...

Hap when am I not informative

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss

[andewhall]

Yeah cheers John for the info. So that website....pretty ugly one at that..... is just a cover up for some crazy denim globalisation.....haha.

You're hooked up John, are you the denim mafia! Haha. Where are you working now man?

http://photobucket.com/albums/y278/andewhall/

[andewhall]

Hey Hap how much do Tsubi's run, like 300-400$. The ones I have seen look quite cool, never tryed any on though. Man my budget is never big enough anyway

http://photobucket.com/albums/y278/andewhall/

[johninger]

still in Japan, but I consult for a few different places. Prefer to not name them though, the industry is a bit secretive if you know what i mean.

Denim Mafia sounds good... lol

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss

[minya]

There already is a "denimafia"... and they produce 5 Easy Pieces!

http://www.denimafia.com

[johninger]

lol good point minya

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss

[adsurgo]

Quote:

To be honest, im not a fan of tsubi. As far as it being a premium line of denim i do not agree. Is a remnant of the sort of post-punk grunge thing everyone went through a couple of years back. Too manufactured, the washes are too over the top and look so fake, tsubi will be equivalent of acid wash jeans in ten years time, when we have year 00's parties everyone will turn up in tsubi jeans and laugh at each other

Plus their construction is absolutely lousy, my friend had a pair that lasted less than five months of intermittent wearing.

Nobody seems a little better, i've only seen bits and pieces of it. Was not very big last time i was in Australia. And they have only a small range in Japan.

One point though, it doesnt seem right to wash/distress selvage denim heavily. Why go to the extra expense and trouble of having beautiful denim to just grind/brush/paint/rip the living daylights out of it.

I personally think neither brand is anywhere near the likes of nudie, edwin, LVC etc. They should not be considered as premium denim lines, maybe more trendy fashion items.

--- Original message by johninger on Nov 1, 2005 04:09 PM

how is it any different washing and distressing shuttle loomed denim than regular loomed denim?

[johninger]

it is hard to weave shuttle loomed denim. There are many irreggularities and little bits that stuff up naturally due to the old mechanics of these looms. These variations are not the fault of the weaver or at all something to be worried about.

It is part of the charm of selvage denim. Many new denims try to mimic this by changing optimal settings in the new looms or using intricate dying techniques to mimic variations in weave.

When you go and strip the denim of its natural character ie destroy the jeans like the way the aforementioned brands do, they may as well be using oe-projectile denim, the wash techniques and distressing wipe out all the beautiful variation.

But that is my opinion not all people's.

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss

[andewhall]

Hey John, do you rate the wide loom denim that is altered to produce slubs and imperfections? They are basically trying to produce a selvage denim on new looms yeah. There must be some pretty good stuff around, I mean there must be alot they can do with modern looms?

http://photobucket.com/albums/y278/andewhall/

[johninger]

yeah for sure, they can do some great stuff and many of the techniques i would not even be able to tell if they just gave me a trimming.

Things like slubbing devices (think amsler) and spinning the yarns roughly can emulate old look.

There are some big differences you might want to note between OE and RS though. On ein particular is strength. A ringspun denim will be about 20% stronger than an OE of an equivalent weight and yarn. Reason for this is tedious to explain but basically in OE about 20% of the fibres in the yarn will not contribute to strength but are just there the ride.

In the end i just love selvage denim. I love clean interior of jeans, like a tailored suit. If you ever get the chance you should look inside a pair of Imperial's. Where other brands overlock most seams they handfell (not bind, this is just as bad as overlocking).

The selvage adds to this, you could not recreate this with OE fabrics.

But to answer your question there is a lot but where do i start.

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss

[minya]

John, both APC and 5 Easy Pieces use felled seams too. I agree, I think it looks far superior to overlock stitching.