Boots & Lwather cobble

[zk4025]

反正下著雨,又超冷又沒人也閒著

看到腳上的DANNER 突然覺得自己沒良心

把他搞成這樣

連最難磨爛的頂端都快沒救了

後根和側面都體無完膚

先打量一下需要修補的部分整體包含鞋舌

(扣除紅色的麂皮部位)應該超過90%的面積

由於不像希望一般皮鞋只是拿個液態的有色鞋油

塗一塗表面把整個皮面都覆蓋一層油亮的色澤

卻不能把皮革表面的刮傷和乾裂處修補起來,而且

這樣只能撐一段短暫的時間.

更不想拿一般透明或深色的膏狀保養油直接塗在

皮革表面,這樣只會讓皮革變得過濕過軟而且失去

原本的色澤,變成深咖啡(比原本的顏色還深許多)

所以我在一些皮革表面已經嚴重磨損甚至乾裂的地方

先用跟原本皮革同色的補色潤皮劑(我把兩種東西調在一起)

補色劑我選揮發性較高的才不會讓皮革的顏色變得比原色更深

也讓潤皮劑能融合的更好,然後慢慢的上在脫色及磨損的地方

先看看補色完跟補色前的差別吧(我還選傷得比較嚴重的一腳

先做試驗)

補完色之後發現效果很好皮革的顏色沒有變深還是維持原本新鞋時的原色

接下來的步驟比較困難..................補洞跟裂痕

為了保持鞋子的透氣性(特別是這雙內層有GORE-TEX)所以不能選含臘成分

太高的東西(另一方面也可以避免補完之後變得很亮)

所以又自己調了幾種作試驗......

下面幾張就是大功告成之後囉

我把臘的成分減到了最低所以鞋子看起來就像是舊鞋子擦乾淨了

依然保持使用過的皮革質感,卻不至於看起來像是硬把皮革塗了一層新顏色

參考一下吧

[zk4025]

鞋子皮面的保養與修護(5)-改頭換面

不知您對於之前曾經修補這雙修補的文章有印象嗎？

http://www.33oz.com/thread-2601-1-1.html

補色後過兩年後又被小弟我穿爛了

這次換一種做法大膽的把整體做個改變

先準備好砂紙、毛刷、銅刷

這三樣工具中最重要的是毛刷

先以毛刷將鞋面整體清潔

然後先以砂紙將皮革表面均勻的磨掉

切忌施力不平均或過大以免把皮面磨得過薄

磨皮的過程中會產生大量的皮屑

反覆的使用毛刷清潔

為了磨得平均我採多次淺磨的方式

漸漸會變成這樣

待整雙都處理好之後大約是這樣的情形

最後以銅刷將皮面的絨毛刷順

上圖後跟顏色有差異是因為當初鞋子製作時使用的皮革密度不同

對於染色塗料的吸收程度有差、所以表皮磨掉之後顏色有很大差異

因為我並不在意所以暫時先這樣穿

若之後穿一陣子有新想法再做改變吧

KURT

[zk4025]

從上面三張照片可看出這雙協的皮面都是小面積的刮傷

且是比較深的刮痕,若用之前自己條的補色劑雖然可以補色

卻無法填補皮革上的凹痕與傷疤

因此這次使用的是最方便也最快速的補色筆(購於TOKYO HAND)

首先將鞋面作基本的清潔然後直接用補色筆直接反覆在傷處塗色

遇到凹痕處特別加強,讓凹痕的空隙被填滿

初歩補好後如下圖,還可以看出塗抹的痕跡

最後用半乾布均勻的推開

推好後就是以下的效果了,整個過程中五分鐘內可以搞定

這是最快速的方式,也是修補深的刮痕最有效的方法

皮面修補完成後幾乎看不出傷痕,接下來在去處理其他週邊的細節即可

KURT

[zk4025]

如何去除霉斑

偶然整理自己的鞋子發現幾雙放了很久沒穿過的皮靴竟然都發霉了

這種霉斑通常擦不掉

分享一下最簡單又有效的去除霉斑方法

先準備一瓶市面上最容易買到的水蠟（售價約台幣80元左右）

然後一塊隨意的乾布或者衛生紙等等可以擦拭的東西

跟一支軟毛刷

先用刷子把霉斑位置刷一次

把水蠟搖晃均勻後倒一些在布或衛生紙上（不需要太多）

直接在霉斑的位置擦拭

若一次無法完全去除可以多擦幾次

然後霉斑就很神奇的擦掉了

接著再次用軟毛刷把斜面上殘留的綿屑等等刷乾淨

接下來若還有時間可以用棉花或者乾的衛生紙直接在剛剛擦拭過水蠟的部位輕推

就會發現還有意外的上蠟光澤效果，可以比較下面照片，腳後跟處較亮的部位就是推過的

比上面沒有推的地方亮得，多而且光澤超自然

其實也可以整雙鞋上水蠟擦拭，等乾後在用乾布輕推就會整雙光亮

而且效果持久

皮衣或者其他皮件也可以用同樣方式處理

[zk4025]

皮質好壞差多少??

選用皮製品時除了選擇款式以外

皮種的使用與皮革處理方式及皮質本身的好壞

其實才是對皮件產品影響最深遠的因素

皮種的選擇其實多數取決於製造者對於想要製作的產品要求

理論上應該以皮件的用途去選配適合的皮革種類

比方

利用

牛皮的韌性,厚度,含脂量處理上的多變性

羊皮(或山羊皮)的耐磨,柔軟度,輕薄.....

馬皮的韌性,高密度,毛孔緊致度......

鱷魚皮的特殊性,麟甲的硬度...........

鹿皮的高延展性,耐磨度,細密度.......

(有時因多皮種符合需求因此可複選)

當然製作者對於其產品的認識以及皮種認識的程度也很重要

首先這裡要談的是我們常用的皮件所用的皮革(大多為牛皮與馬皮)

我們經常在各個論壇中討論的大多數產品是:皮衣,皮帶,皮夾,靴子

皮革處理的方式太多也很複雜,這裡要討論的是怎麼選皮革

以我個人喜歡較細密的皮質,關於皮革的厚度

(指經過處理後使用於皮件上)

我反而不是那麼在意

因為皮革厚度厚並不代表就是密度高,簡單的說就是厚不等於實

這張照片是皮革密度較高的部位經過彎折後產生的現象

是很細密的細紋,且因為皮革密度高所以無法折到太大的角度

下面這張是密度較低的皮

很明顯彎折後產生的摺痕很大,皮革也較軟

我們再比較兩種不同密度皮在彎曲後在邊緣裁切處產生的效果

從皮革的橫切面可以明顯看出不同,密度較低的皮因為組織較鬆散

所以從橫切面可看出表皮層和底下的組織無法完全密合成現波浪狀

若該處經常反覆彎折,其實使用的次數與時間長了,表皮層和底下的組織層

會經常出先分離或者破裂的效果,講難聽一點就是不夠堅固耐用

而且這種明顯的摺痕在一般正常的情況下是不可能消除的

不過最困難的地方在於如何在看到新品時判斷出皮革使用後呈現出的效果

千萬不要在還沒付帳的狀況下用手去彎折店內的皮件,

或者用指甲等等硬物去壓皮革

否則造成無法復原的痕跡或者損傷,是要賠償店家的

另舉一例

皮衣與皮靴類是最容易產生這種摺痕的東西

像這雙鞋的皮革處理跟皮質本身密度都很細密

所以即使使用次數頻繁,時間也極長,但呈現的摺痕與質感都很不錯

且光澤度高(並非另外上鞋油或蠟的光澤)

另外還有 http://www.33oz.com/thread-1165-1-1.html

中 ＃2 mono 兄 所貼照片中的鞋子皮質更是緊實到誇張的程度

底下這雙則皮質較鬆散，縐褶處紋路較深且明顯

（先聲明以上舉例只是正好找到適合的照片，與圖片中鞋子的品牌無關

因為任何品牌的每一個單一產品都可能有明顯差異

所以請勿做不當聯想）

其實在皮件為全新的狀態下確實不容易分辨皮質的密度

比較好的方式是以趾腹按壓皮面

(切勿用指甲或者硬物以免留下痕跡，且鞋類絕對不要用力按鞋頭

以免萬一沒有鋼頭的鞋子鞋頭被壓變形，又要賠錢了）

至於按壓的力道不要太重其實可以用兩手趾夾著單層皮面

以適度的力道輕捏（當然需要一定的經驗累積才會有心得）

次數多了自然會較容易分辨出皮革的緊實度

皮革本身的密度經常即使同一張皮，各個部位的密度與厚度也都不同

例如背部與臀部的皮革通常會較密實

而腹部與關節周圍的皮質則容易較軟，較鬆散

除了先天條件外，皮革加工的過程與方式可以在某些程度上

增加皮革的緊實度（當然也可以改變其他方面的性質）

因此製造者的要求絕對是皮件產品品質的首要關卡

皮革挑選與加工程序也會直接反應出製作成本來

這也是為什麼經常有相似商品，售價會天差地別的原因之一

或許未使用時難以分辨，但皮件這種東西是騙不了人的

用一陣子之後立即就會分出好壞[

]

KURT

[zk4025]

Joe McCOY Boots 變身

這款的第一雙鞋底磨得很厲害了

一直都計畫要帶回日本換底

不過猶豫要更換原廠或者換個花樣

向來耳聞日本有個知名的修鞋達人

禁不起誘惑,就嘗試一下吧

第一次見到關於奧山先生的資訊時就了解他是個口味玩得很重的人

很想有一天把自己的BUCO也變成這樣

所以從不吝嗇的死命操這鞋

從他的網站上看到各項資訊與材料後真的心癢難耐

也想去認識一下他的 "黑王"

終於這趟的日本行有幸能親自見識到他精湛的手藝了

這雙鞋能變成這樣...............超感動

[zk4025]

Nice post.. but i dont read thai...

Sorry! I can't speak English !

[zk4025]

把黯淡無光的皮革救回來

先說明一個重要事項之前的文章中曾經提過:

關於處理某些鞋子的皮革時爲了避免阻礙皮革的透氣性

因此盡可能減少厚重的"蠟質"成分留在皮面上,

這是針對需要高透氣性的皮革部位而言並非在皮革上加"蠟質"會傷害皮革,

很抱歉在這裡才提出說明

這樣的皮面因為皮革經常性的吸收過多水分所以顯得光澤不夠

而且這已經算不錯的了,很多皮革因為太常上油所以整個看起來都更濕

更霧甚至髒髒的感覺

其實理想的皮革光澤在自然的使用過程下應該像下圖這樣

是非常棒的狀態

先不講各種特殊皮質或需要特殊處理的皮面

一般常用的原皮或漆皮面(不論牛皮,鹿皮,馬皮,羊皮...都可用以下的方式)

有感於聽到版友說到皮件沒有光澤,想養出好看的皮夾

又苦於品質好的皮夾價格又過高

在此提供大家一個不錯的方式,不但可以增加皮革的質感跟光澤

對皮革本身也可以有保護的效果,雖然不及高溫滲蠟的效果

卻也相去不遠了,更難得的是不會造成皮革水分過多因而變形

還兼具某些程度的防水效果

首先到各大加油站或汽車美容材料行買一罐下圖這種蠟

約70~100台幣(一罐夠用個好幾年)

先拍兩張沒上蠟之前的皮革特寫(這次示範的是馬皮的A-2,由於平日

我就很少上皮革油所以差異不會非常明顯)

還是看得出光澤不夠

這件皮衣之前已經整件上蠟一次了所以看起來很亮

不過忘了拍照,所以再選一個局部示範一次

先將皮革表面灰塵去除

打開蠟之後準備就緒

[zk4025]

以一般上油的方式將沾了蠟的海棉依繞圈方式塗抹在皮革上

上蠟之後放置1~5分鐘等待乾燥

乾燥之後塗過蠟的部位會出現一層白色的霧狀蠟

許多高級皮件全新時也會有這種外觀如POLO的皮件或者

WHITEHOUSE & COX 的皮夾,就是這種東西別懷疑

確定乾燥之後

(其實手摸起來是乾的即可因為這種蠟有揮發性的有機物不會立即完全乾燥)

拿乾布,切記一定要用乾的布!!!!!!!!

濕的會有反效果,搞砸了別找我啊

反覆的將蠟推掉

部分皮面毛孔較粗的地方或者車縫線處及隙縫會有布擦不乾淨的殘蠟

可以用軟毛刷刷去(或者自然使用過一段時間後會磨掉)

皮面就是這樣了,可以參考整件的光澤質感

因為整件先前都上過一層蠟了

不論皮衣,皮夾,皮靴

只要不是在水分過多的狀況下幾乎上蠟後都可以改善不少

建議各位愛惜自己的皮製品必須用對方式

經常性的上皮革油並不是好方法

即使常用的皮件或皮靴,相對吸收外界水分的機會也更多

所以反而不需太常上油

試試看這種乾燥的方式吧

因為多數這種蠟含有揮發性質的有機物,因此在上蠟過程與完成後

會有嗆鼻的味道,必須放置通風處數日等完全揮發後味道會逐漸消失

因此這種上蠟方式,適合於目前夏季時期

等到逐漸轉冷後要穿皮衣了味道也沒了,夏季是不錯的時機

]

補上兩張剛剛淋雨的照片(上蠟後的數天後)

雨水(還蠻大的雨)滴在皮面上不會直接被皮革吸收

而是因為防水蠟的關係凝結在表面

本篇文章是小弟在 November 1, 2006 發表於自己的BLOG中

因為多數人無法連結到台灣的網址

所以把他貼過來分享,內容小弟今日加上部分註解與修改

之前看過的朋友們請見諒

KURT

[jimmyc]

Well, whatever your saying the pictures are great.

I like this one. What's his name?

[zk4025]

Well, whatever your saying the pictures are great.

I like this one. What's his name?

"黑王" is his name , thanks ^^

[Charlie Delta]

He doesn't look like he's ready to be made into a pair of boots though...

Seriously, this thread seems to have so much potential, anyone care to translate?

[edmond]

from what i understand kurt is as we all know owns " faith" the great store int aiwan that sells stuffs like take5 in hongkong..

i think hes just showing us tips on how to take care and protect leathers

and he even sent out his boots to hokurokujo ( takeshi-san) one of japans great cobblers to be resoled and modified..

thank you kurt!

[azn8oi]

what do you want translated? i'll try to translate what someone wants; doing all of it is ridiculous.

the dog's name is "Black King". hah

[opethrapture]

Pictures say more than words:D

No but seriously and translation would be really nice!

[coleslawyum]

Someone needs to move this over to the Shoe thread. Pics are hot. Gotta vouch for Okuyama-san at Hukurokuju. (damn Ed, you never spell this correctly.) His work is top-notch.

[Pandemonium]

Nice post.. but i dont read thai...

nice guess, you fucking racist!

burn him to the stake!

He doesn't look like he's ready to be made into a pair of boots though...

Seriously, this thread seems to have so much potential, anyone care to translate?

that's the most insensitive thing i've seen you type cotton.

i love it.

[coleslawyum]

Hey zk, can you translate that part about the belts? I hate getting that wrinkly elephant skin on my belts, but it seems almost unavoidable.

[edmond]

hmm i have to spell takeshi -sans shop correctly..

[azn8oi]

How much difference is there in the quality of leather?

Actually, the quality of the skin is basically the most important aspect in leather and fur goods because these aspects are the most influential on the overall quality of a product.

The quality of the leather heavily depends on what the manufacturer wants to create. In theory, they should only make the (quality of) leather as good as it's going to be used for.

For instance, when using cowhide, the thickness of it determines how resilient it is:

The wear resistance and softness of sheep skin (or mountain goat skin) is very lacking.

Horse skin is tough and thick, the pores are very tight and even.

Crocodile skin is peculiar in that the skin is as hard as nails.

Deer skin is wear resistant, and is dense and very fine.

Sometimes the thickness of the skin just really demands on what you need it for; therefore, it’s very complicated to choose one. So it should only be natural that the maker of the skin knows and can recognize all these different skins at an excellent level.

The first thing that we should discuss is the leather that we use, which is mostly cow leather and horse leather.

We’re always arguing on different forums about which kind of product is most common: fur jackets, belts, wallets, or boots.

There are too many different products that one can make with leather and it’s all very complicated; so we’ll just discuss what kind of leather that you should choose for what you want to make.

I personally like finer leathers in regards to the thickness.

After handling many different types of leathers, I realized that I don’t really pay so much attention to it because the thickness doesn’t actually mean that its density is high; basically, thickness doesn’t mean good quality.

This picture shows the density of the leather from above; look at the interesting phenomenon of how it’s very fine grained and tightly knit at the fold. It’s because of the density that I can’t fold the leather to extreme angles.

The picture below is of a lower density leather.

It’s clearly evident that there is a huge mark when I fold the leather, and also, the leather is quite soft.

Let’s compare two other different types of leather densities: one cut from the edge, and the other not.

You can see that the top and bottom of the leather that it doesn’t matter what the surface of the leather looks like. You can’t tell the condition of the density of the leather just from scratching the surface.

After repeating using and folding the leather, usually the first thing that will happen is that the surface of the leather will separate, or perhaps burst, as an effect. The fact of the matter is, it just means that the leather is not sturdy enough. Furthermore, this kind of mark is impossible to get rid of in ordinary leathers.

However, the biggest problem lies regards in realizing how to spot crappy leather from good leather when you’re buying it. It’s only after you used it that you know that you can know the result of whether or not you bought bad leather.

Under NO circumstances should you ever try to bend the leather before you pay for it at the store. Don’t scratch the leather with your nail, or apply pressure to it. Otherwise you might make an irreparable mark or maybe damage it. In that case you’d be forced to compensate the store without exceptions. [azn8oi’s note: haha spoken like a true shop-owner]

Leather coats and boots are the products that most easily create these kinds of creases and folds.

Take these pair of boots for instance; the leather is in itself very dense and fine. So even if you use it many times, all the time, or even a long time, the crease and the heeling are both not bad.

The boots also have a great sheen (without applying shoe polish or wax).

There's also http://www.33oz.com/thread-1165-1-1.html

The user “中 ＃2 mono” said that the leather of surface of the boots being shown is dense that it’s unbelievable.

The density of the pair of boots below is quite loose, and as such you can easily see the creases and folds.

(First let's make it clear that the picture above is a great example. The brand of these boots is irrelevant. It doesn't matter what brand it is because during production there will always be some failed items in a production batch so please don't make some kind of bad assumption about the brand.)

One of the best methods is to press down on the toebox (lightly)

(Be sure not to use your nail or leave a mark on the product. In terms of shoes, you definitely shouldn't press down too hard on the toebox because if it's not a steel-toe then you're going to have to pay for damages)

One of the ways you can press down on the toe is using two fingers to press against the surface.

You can also lightly knead the leather (of course you need experience to know what you're looking for)

After you do it a lot you can naturally distinguish the solidity and density of the leather.

Even if some leather all comes from the same one sheet of leather, the density and thickness can still vary. For instance, leather from the ass is often denser. Leather from the abdomen or from joints are looser and softer.

The process of making leather and the way to make it exists on different levels.

Increasing the density of the leather (of course it's possible to alter other aspects of the leather as well). Therefore the demand of the manufacturer is that the quality of the leather is of first importance, and it should be absolutely perfect for it to pass.

The selection and finishing of the leather also directly affects the manufacturer because of how expensive it is.

This is also why there are so many products that look alike, but the selling prices are worlds apart.

Perhaps when it's time to distinguish the differences it's hard, but leather is one of those products where you can't deceive the customer.

After you use it for a while you can immediately separate good leather from bad leather.

KURT

(TRANSLATED BY azn8oi)

This literally took me over two hours, and it's not a perfect translation at all. I think I made up some of it because I had no clue what it really meant so I took a stab.

Have fun..

P.S.

Kurt, 我九月多會來台灣玩。我會去你的店跟你打招呼。See you soon.

[edmond]

your going to taiwan on septemeber ? hmm ill try to make my trip early!

[azn8oi]

Actually, I'm staying until February, at the minimum. Haha, take your time.

[fattybfat]

thanks for the translate

[fre-co]

Can't rep you aznboi, but if ever there was a post worthy or rep, it was that one. Thanks for taking the time to translate.

[zk4025]

This literally took me over two hours, and it's not a perfect translation at all. I think I made up some of it because I had no clue what it really meant so I took a stab.

Have fun..

P.S.

Kurt, 我九月多會來台灣玩。我會去你的店跟你打招呼。See you soon.

Thank you so much !!!!!

感謝您替我翻譯

請務必到小店一敘

KURT

[azn8oi]

不謝

Thanks for the rep guys.

Any other requests?

[edmond]

err about the horseleather part...?