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Undercover Womenswear F/W 08.09


Charlie Delta

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These are the pics I took, and unfortunatly none of them are as sharp as I would've liked them to be.

All the picture I took of individual model walking turned out superblurry and I was way too occupied with enjoying and taking in the show to worry about my camera.

So for the actual outfit pictures you'll have to wait a bit until they pop up elsewhere on the internets, but I wanted to post these anyway as they do sort of represent the atmosphere...

And some atmosphere it was!

The location was an old theater near the Sacre Coeur, and the models where standing just a bit above the floor level on a big circular stage. This was divided into three parts of wich only one was visible to the audience at all times, on there a group of models was standing. The models would step down one by one and do their walk towards the camera's and when they had all done that the stage would turn again to present a new group of outfits...

Somehow they also managed to silenty and superquickly change the backdrops a couple of times (production for this show must've been hell...).

The music being played were all these nice classical piano pieces, and they too would change with every turn of the stage.

It truly was an enchanting show, and after having to get into this new style for a couple of seasons Jun Takahashi is back and as strong as ever (or even stronger) in my humble opinion.

For as far as I'm concerned the guy is a magician, and for me it's good, reassuring and inspiring to attend a show like this once in a while to be reminded how beautiful and amazing this big ugly fashion world can be if done right...

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yes... yes

i liked those looks, not only because of the shmexy layering, but that it was also fairly masculine for a womens look... definitely inspiring to me. when the time comes i might try to purchase some of the womens... but i hope that the mens UCism looks somewhat similar, because i have a fobia of boob-darting.

i might try to make some of those pants (by chopping up some others), did you get a good look at what the inset piece of fabric was made of? at first i thought it could be jersey but on further inspection it looks like it could be cotton twill or something.

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Unfortunatly I wasn't close enough to be able to see subtle things like that, I'll look around if I can find detail pics...

edit: the knee pieces right? Haven't found real upclose pics but from what I can tell from the ones I found it's no knit for sure, but what is is I still can't tell you, could indeed be a twill, it looks quite heavy actually...

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I've just handles the whole collection and as I find out time and time again, you actually have to feel clothes to be able to truly appreciate them...

No pictures on the internet and not even attending the show comes close to actually being able to handle a collection.

And this collection, my dear friends, is simply amazing!

Shapes, craftmanship, materials used and combinations of fabric in particular, are mindblowing!!!

And while I personally would prefer the mens collection to simply be bigger sizes of the womens, it was also pretty good, simple, but nice. Definitely some pieces that people on here would love...

So I have you answer Diamonds, depending on the material of the trousers, the inset pieces are either leather (cowhide to be precise) or wool, and iirc the wool had a stitched diamond grid on them... The pair you posted was this super light and supple leather.

Also, hardly any "boob-darts", and not in their traditional shape eitherway, but worked into seams, I really wouldn't worry about that.

So there....

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thanks cotton duck for the pics! love it!

once again jun did it again. really love what he always has to present. always making artworks out of fashion shows. Undercover rocks! :D and i personally like the way he make the models head look like giant alien eggs! wonder if he will publish any art books or any publications leading to this current season of works and collection. nonetheless, he rocks!

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last book he had was A:curated by Jun Takahashi

the one before was the madsaki x undercover (intersession or whatever it's called)

he rarely publishes books or art for every collection

he does doll-making in the undercover basement though

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