Making my own Carol Christian Poell pants

[beast]

So I thought no way I am spending $800 and more for a pair of CCP pants. So I brought some pictures for my tailor to copy the design.

I showed him the picture with the over locking stitching. He said no way it can be done. I asked other tailors. They said no too. They suspect even for pants, CCP had a special machine to do it and it is not hand stiched because hand stitching would not be strong enough and over time the pants will split. So I managed to find one tailor who is willing to do the overstitching by hand to my existing pants for about US$20 a pants.

I showed him the picture of the U shape pants. He have no idea how this was actually done without closer pictures.

Damn! This made me respect CCP more but not enough to fork out $800 for a CCP pants. But I suppose we are getting value for money for what we are paying to a certain extent for CCP products.

Anyone else got any other CCP details I can add to my pants? If anyone got pics of the U shape pants and how the fit is like, can they forward it to me please?

BTW I am thinking of geting my tailor to add the Dior Homme darts at the back pockets and even the Margiela clasp but thats a bit hard to find.

Tried attaching the pics I showed them but I still cant do it.

[chromesquared]

If I remember correctly, he used a machine that was originally used to sew up coffee bean bags to do the overlock.

[homme.homme]

so basically you are making some kind of designer pant of frankenstein steez...? I think you should make them out of gucci monogram too, shits hot!

[avantster]

CCPs overlock is certainly time consuming but is not unreachable. You just need a serger machine.

Zamb has a great example on his blog here about making an overlock tee.

[wEstSidE]

just buy the ccps

cop sum j-shapes wile ur att it

[beast]

If I remember correctly, he used a machine that was originally used to sew up coffee bean bags to do the overlock.

That makes sense. After examing the pictures, we suspect the pants, jeans or jackets will look good after time when the thread 'expands' and you have a patch work kind of look to the pants, jeans or jackets.

The threads especially for the jeans and jackets look thick and strong and hence cannot be hand stitched and only machine stitched So I am just using the overlocking stich as a detail to my pants.

[beast]

so basically you are making some kind of designer pant of frankenstein steez...? I think you should make them out of gucci monogram too, shits hot!

Are you kidding me? Why is it when CCP makes it, its art. But when I make it, its frankenstein? Anyway I will be using black threads on black pants so you cant see it unless you go real close to it.

BTW I was also intending to make it like Levis engineered jeans so the side stitching will move from the side to the front and my overlocking stitch can be seen in the front but dont think that can be done.

[chromesquared]

Are you kidding me?

I think he was.

I will be using black threads on black pants so you cant see it unless you go real close to it.

Just curious why u would go through all this trouble only to use a black thread on black pants? Seems like a waste.

Grey?

BTW I was also intending to make it like Levis engineered jeans so the side stitching will move from the side to the front and my overlocking stitch can be seen in the front but dont think that can be done.

Ooooooh, TrueReligion steez, you should put flap pockets with emboyderee on em too!

(10)?

[beast]

I think he was.

Just curious why u would go through all this trouble only to use a black thread on black pants? Seems like a waste.

Grey?

Ooooooh, TrueReligion steez, you should put flap pockets with emboyderee on em too!

(10)?

If you look at CCP pants, he uses grey thread on grey pants as well.

I can conceivably use grey thread on black pants but I am wearing it for work and it wont look good if people think I am turning into some patchwork Freddy Krueger psycho.

Lastly, I want my pants to look normal but cool to those who take a closer look and can appreciate the detailing and effort and cost. So no. Putting flap pockets and emboyderee make it look like some MCM crap from the 80s.

[beast]

CCPs overlock is certainly time consuming but is not unreachable. You just need a serger machine.

Zamb has a great example on his blog here about making an overlock tee.

Damn! Looks like I found a kindred spirit in Zamb. No way my tailor is gonna jig his sewing machine to do that for me. I gotta find me a new tailor or those tailors who do clothing for design students.

[homme.homme]

when you say tailor do you mean a place that does alterations or an actual maker? because you will have more luck with a maker.

Also if you want to just call places to see if they can do it im 95% sure it's called a pull-apart overlock stitch...(I've also heard someone call it a surgical stitch??) i dont think its costly as i've started putting it on some of the cns i do for work and i think the price has gone up maybe a couple of cents.

[beast]

when you say tailor do you mean a place that does alterations or an actual maker? because you will have more luck with a maker.

Also if you want to just call places to see if they can do it im 95% sure it's called a pull-apart overlock stitch...(I've also heard someone call it a surgical stitch??) i dont think its costly as i've started putting it on some of the cns i do for work and i think the price has gone up maybe a couple of cents.

I've got both. Tailor and alteration guy.

The tailor is the one I go to so he can do a CCP pants for me from scratch.

The initial word from him is no. It cannot be done. So I am going to do normal pants from him (with details like DH back darts and upside down CCP pockets and buttons) and add the overlocking stitching as a non functioning detail from an alteration guy who is going to do it for me by hand.

Well, it can be called pull apart overlock stitch or surgical stitch but those words just fly by the shops I go to. Thats why I printed out the picture of the stitching and show it to them. Dont think anyone have the machine to do it so it can only be done by hand. Many are not willing to spend time to do it by hand BTW.

[thomas_highstreet]

can you show me a picture of the original pants? i could probably tell you exactly how its made.

T

[beast]

can you show me a picture of the original pants? i could probably tell you exactly how its made.

T

This is the link of the pictures.

http://cgi.ebay.com/CAROL-POELL-OWENS-CARPE-DIEM-TROUSERS_W0QQitemZ150162523031QQihZ005QQcategoryZ57989QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Can I PM you the pics of the U shape pants?

[thomas_highstreet]

ye.. or jus upload it to some sort of image host. either way.

[beast]

ye.. or jus upload it to some sort of image host. either way.

Erm can you let me have your email address instead? I have the same problems PM you the pics. Whats your email addy?

[thomas_highstreet]

thomas.highstree t@g mail . c om

[beast]

thomas.highstree t@g mail . c om

Hi! I've just emailed you the pics. Thanks for the help.

BTW in 2 of the pics, CCP actually have a line down the middle of both legs of the pants, both back and front. My tailor said this is due to ironing. Is there any way of having it there permanently without ironing?

[fg0d]

I beleive if you search here you'll find a simplified pattern of the pant. A few people have done it, tg76, I think, and someone else on the Stylezeitgeist forums, seems it might have been taken down though. I'll look into it later today, also interested in this.

[mike lowrey]

Are you kidding me? Why is it when CCP makes it, its art. But when I make it, its frankenstein?

I think he was referring to your idea of combining signature elements from several different designers, which might kind of ruin the idea. while Poell's garments might have some amazing details, most of it is still quite subtle in a way and clean looking. but anyway, what you combine in your ideas is of course up to you.

[beast]

I think he was referring to your idea of combining signature elements from several different designers, which might kind of ruin the idea. while Poell's garments might have some amazing details, most of it is still quite subtle in a way and clean looking. but anyway, what you combine in your ideas is of course up to you.

I agree with you. Thats why I am not looking at putting the armani eagle on my back pocket below the versace medusa head with RMC patch on the back pocket and D & G label on the other back pocket and Evisu gulls all along the back leg.

My design will be subtle. Everything will be in the same colour ie. black, including CCP stitch and DH darts. Unless you look real close, you cant see it. Unless you are into fashion, you wont know what it is even if you see it.

[mike lowrey]

sounds like a plan

[thomas_highstreet]

back pock darts = ghey.

why dont you just 'design' something of your own?

[Fuuma]

Are you kidding me? Why is it when CCP makes it, its art. But when I make it, its frankenstein?

For the same reason that when someone makes a copy of a Picasso it is not art.

With that being said:

1) I'd classify Poell's work as fashion design more than art, although he does aim at transcending the medium.

2) They were referring to your idea of mixing details from Poell, Margiela and Dior. I agree it would look to busy and the idea is somewhat in bad taste. Keep in mind that the overlock is sort of Poell's signature technique but the Dior darts and Margiela 's stitches are just a new version of "tags" so they should be left to be used by their own makers.

3) Good luck with the pants.

[avantster]

Well said, Fuuma.

beast, just expanding on his second point.

The overlock stitching simply a sewing method. Poell has used it enough for it to become one distinguishing feature of his clothing, but regular overlocking is used all time on clothing, and Poell's industrial-type overlock is certainly not new.

On the other hand the Dior darts and Margiela stitches on the other hand are design trademarks that that allow people to easily identify the label.

Of course it is up to you, but just some thoughts. Good luck with the overlocking.

[wEstSidE]

dior darts don't add any particular "clothing valu"

i thnk tht is wat make it lyk a trademark.

[the breaks]

its kind of like your typing in a way!!

[wEstSidE]

its kind of like your typing in a way!!

ovrstylized

[fg0d]

http://stylezeitgeist.com/forums/thread/24662.aspx

[beast]

Well said, Fuuma.

beast, just expanding on his second point.

On the other hand the Dior darts and Margiela stitches on the other hand are design trademarks that that allow people to easily identify the label.

Of course it is up to you, but just some thoughts. Good luck with the overlocking.

Is there such a thing as Margiela stitch? Do you mean the 4 white threads at the back attaching the Margiela label If so, I am not interested in that. Think I will have to scrap the Margiela clasp idea since that cannot be easily found. Anyway that always come out when I wear it.