Neil Barrett S/S 2008

[Analog]

[Analog]

[Analog]

Review : Tim Blanks

"You could say that Neil Barrett farms one field, but he does it so well that he always gets a good crop. The seeds he sows are punk attitude and custom-made craft, and together they produce immaculate clothes with enough edginess to satisfy a growing global clientele. But the title of this season's collection—"Visconti Punk"—promised more than it ultimately delivered. The latter element was obvious in the loosely woven mohair sweaters and the studded leather jackets, biker vests, and shoes worn sockless. Visconti's aristocratic elegance was more elusive, merely implied in the formality of Barrett's signature tailoring."

"Still, the designer managed to hone his proposition to its peak thus far. He softened his signature shrunken proportions so that even when trousers were cropped, they were more generously cut, as were the jackets. And the reductive precision of punk style meant that Barrett's layering (pinstripe waistcoat over gray sweater over white shirt) had a laser sharpness. He sidestepped into the nylon-shorts-with-tailored-top cul-de-sac that has peculiarly gripped Milan's imagination this season, but redeemed himself with a white jacket and waistcoat paired with zippered tan trousers. The formal upper and edgy lower were the quintessence of the Barrett ethos. And kudos to a soundtrack that ranged from an obscure Adam & the Ants track to the almost-forgotten Spear of Destiny. Ah, the memories."

[Lucas0607]

I've always loved neil barrett's collections. This is definitely a different side of him. But I dunno, yeah, this colelction has some punk written all over it - which is nicely executed. It's stylish.

Some pieces are alright but some are just waaay too punk. I liked his previous collections more... More military inspired and sharply tailored. This one kinda has some slack to it - And nothing just "Pops". It's more like a flat collection

[ProfMonnitoff]

I really like it. Although I must admit that the studded leather jackets (the most "punk" pieces in the collection?) are my least favorite part. I love how it looks like the models have been wearing these clothes all their life and are completely comfortable in them. He takes a three piece suit and makes it look as comfortable and downdressed as jeans and a t-shirt, even though it is impeccably tailored. I love that the knitwear drapes (but never too much ala Julius) and that it is always slightly longer or slightly shorter than normal. The leather jackets without studs but with pushed up sleeves are great too.

So I guess I'm quite fond of this. It all has that quality that is so hard to define, it just "works". And what's even better, I could actually see myself wearing a vast majority of those pieces.

[mike lowrey]

I like the collection, I've always liked his aesthetic and colors.

I think there might be influence from certain more avant garde-ish brands in this collection, would anyone agree? for example the slightly oversized tops, stripes and sheer materials, use of vests etc

[ProfMonnitoff]

I definitely see a hint of Prorsum AW07 among others.

[misterpretender]

I totally dig this collection...I can definitely see myself wearing most of the pieces...love the vests and the shorts!