Fading and Initial Colour Characteristics of Sanforized vs. Unsanforized Denim

[lowrider]

Has anyone here noticed any differences between how sanforized vs. unsanforized denim fades? How about initial colour (read: brand new jeans) of raw sanforized or unsanforized jeans?

I was reading about the sanforization process and couldn't help but wonder how much indigo is lost during the process. It also made me wonder about the fade characteristics of sanforized denim vs. unsanforized denim.

For those that don't know (I just found this out), denim is sanforized after the dyeing process, not before.

Here's a quickie on sanforization:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sanforization

Thoughts?

[toufu]

can't really say...only sanforized denim i have are the black dukes...

havn't even broken the tip of the iceburg with em...maybe bcuz they're black...

on the other hand...my canes are coming along beautifully

and my lvc's that i only wore for 2 weeks have loss some indigo too..

[fallen angels]

this doesnt answer your question, but it relates to the topic

i had a conversation with Kiya at SE once about sanforized denim and how it fades. Many people dont pre-soak their sanforized jeans because they dont shrink anyway, but Kiya explained to me there is actually a benefit to soaking sanforized denim before wearing: exposure to water helps denim fibers to "open up" and this will allow the denim to break-in/fade better (true for any raw denim, sanforized or not).

of course, sanforized jeans that are not pre-soaked will still fade just fine- however this isnt recommended since wearing raw denim for a long time (months) and never washing/soaking them damages the denim and causes it to become weak.

i imagine comparing how sanforized vs unsanforized denim fades is hard since different brands use different cotton, different dyes, different construction, and dye the threads a different number of times. there's a lot of variables, unless you can compare within one brand like SDA-203 vs SDA-103.. that'd be interesting

[seatiger]

I think they state on SDA website that SDA-203 is a lighter denim to SDA-103. If I remember correctly, its 14oz to 15oz.

[lowrider]

this doesnt answer your question, but it relates to the topic

i had a conversation with Kiya at SE once about sanforized denim and how it fades. Many people dont pre-soak their sanforized jeans because they dont shrink anyway, but Kiya explained to me there is actually a benefit to soaking sanforized denim before wearing: exposure to water helps denim fibers to "open up" and this will allow the denim to break-in/fade better (true for any raw denim, sanforized or not).

of course, sanforized jeans that are not pre-soaked will still fade just fine- however this isnt recommended since wearing raw denim for a long time (months) and never washing/soaking them damages the denim and causes it to become weak.

i imagine comparing how sanforized vs unsanforized denim fades is hard since different brands use different cotton, different dyes, different construction, and dye the threads a different number of times. there's a lot of variables, unless you can compare within one brand like SDA-203 vs SDA-103.. that'd be interesting

Hmmm... very interesting. Thanks for sharing! I guess I should soak my KMW AWAs when they get here? They're sanforized but raw. The tag also suggests that you wash it as few times as possible. This is my new dilema!

Actually this question came to me when I was thinking that maybe the same guy who dyed the Oni Shoai dyed my KMW AWA. If it was the same guy and the same dyeing method, I wondered if they would look different solely because my KMW AWA is sanforized and the Oni Shoai is not.

[jayrock]

Just wanted to bump this thread to see if there are any more opinions on this subject.

Many people dont pre-soak their sanforized jeans because they dont shrink anyway, but Kiya explained to me there is actually a benefit to soaking sanforized denim before wearing: exposure to water helps denim fibers to "open up" and this will allow the denim to break-in/fade better (true for any raw denim, sanforized or not).

of course, sanforized jeans that are not pre-soaked will still fade just fine- however this isnt recommended since wearing raw denim for a long time (months) and never washing/soaking them damages the denim and causes it to become weak.

I was considering soaking my APCs solely for this reason. There are a few stress points on my honeycombs where the denim is really stiff and there is a "pinch" in the denim. I thought that soaking might loosen up the denim and avoid breaks in the fabric.

Any thoughts?

[Clench Million]

this doesnt answer your question, but it relates to the topic

i had a conversation with Kiya at SE once about sanforized denim and how it fades. Many people dont pre-soak their sanforized jeans because they dont shrink anyway, but Kiya explained to me there is actually a benefit to soaking sanforized denim before wearing: exposure to water helps denim fibers to "open up" and this will allow the denim to break-in/fade better (true for any raw denim, sanforized or not).

of course, sanforized jeans that are not pre-soaked will still fade just fine- however this isnt recommended since wearing raw denim for a long time (months) and never washing/soaking them damages the denim and causes it to become weak.

What about soaking them after you have been wearing them for a month?

[Clench Million]

I thought this thread could get interesting, so here is a bump.

[LaiShin]

What about soaking them after you have been wearing them for a month?

I doubt there's gonna be a difference.

[kiya]

Another great thread...

A few quick notes on the differences.. I can very easily tell the difference between denim that has and has not been sanforized.

During the process of which the denim goes through, the fabric is put under extreme pressure and therefore is compressed.

This compressed nature is partially the reason Imperial, Nudies, Iron Heart, and APC have a slight sheen to them. And is the same reason that Flat Head, Real McCoy's, and Sugarcane do NOT have a sheen.

Keep in mind, what i just said is from personal experience and being around denim for years, whether or not it's scientifically true is up for discussion.

I prefer non-saforized denim for a variety of reasons.. a few being that i believe the fading on non-sanforized denim is more interesting, the post soak hue of indigo on the denim is far deeper on non-saforized denim, and i like the ritual of soaking/measuring/watching closing before my initial wear of a new pair.

[jayrock]

On a related note, I put my APC NS through a two hour hot soak and let them air dry this weekend. I did this because I was afraid of the fabric breaking at stress points, such as where the denim was "pinched" in the honeycombs.

The jeans shrank a tiny bit and lost a bit of the shiny raw luster that they had. The tub had a ring from the indigo/starch. Overall, I am quite satisfied with the results. There aren't any more "pinched" areas, the denim is still somewhat stiff (though not as much), and the stacking looks much better. In hindsight, I should've done the soak when I first got the jeans because there were crease marks on both legs were the denim had been folded.

So, in conclusion, don't be afraid to soak sanforized jeans. I am happy with my end results.

[Clench Million]

I doubt there's gonna be a difference.

Well, I thought it might re-set all of hte wrinkles and then there'd be a risk of getting wear in different places that looked odd.

[Cameland]

Yeah I had noticed the link between raw sheen and sanforisation but then when I saw the raw skulls they seemed to not have that same sheen. Ah well.

[cabl3]

Damn, Ive had my RRDS for 4 months and no soak or wash...this makes me want to soak them....agh but I cant risk creating new stress points and odd fading.

Good thread, I will definitely soak my next pair of sanforized raw jeans.

[lowrider]

I wore my Somet Slims (sanforized / raw) for 25 days before my first soak and wash. It was fine.

[cabl3]

I was gonna hold of for my first soak till late Sept. in an ocean dip...should I just soak them right now and then do the ocean dip in sept too?

[lowrider]

I was gonna hold of for my first soak till late Sept. in an ocean dip...should I just soak them right now and then do the ocean dip in sept too?

Well, I've heard that not soaking denim before wearing them accelerates the breaking down of the fabric (I think it has something to do with the wax that the factory sprays on). But since you've been wearing them for 4 months already, I say it's up to you whether you want to soak now or hold off. Besides, you have your XX-007s to play with now so why not wash / soak your RRDS and focus on your PBJs?

[cabl3]

Lol, im scared to focus on my 007's. I mean I love both jeans and am torn when I have to decide which Im gonna wear between the two..lol.

I think im gonna accellerate the wear of my RRDS by going bike riding with them every morning. And like wear my PBJ's daily.

And I think the soak will have to hold off till the beach...I wanna see just how much contrast I can get outta them (the salt in the water should help just fine).

[fallen angels]

So, in conclusion, don't be afraid to soak sanforized jeans. I am happy with my end results.

yup, its never a bad idea to soak your sanforized jeans. theyre not going to shrink much anyway and the water will help the reveal the true blue colors of the indigo.

my gf soaked her Skull Lindas over the weekend, and now that the sheen is gone and the blue color has come through it looks much better than before. prior to the soak she wore them everyday for 2 months to stretch them out to a really good fit, but now after the soak and a day of wear she's even happier with the new fit. they didnt shrink at all but the shape of the jeans became more flattering for her body shape (without being too tight). we think the soak helped the denim become more "malleable" and enabled it to become more form fitting.

[ryan123]

How do you know if your jean is sanforized or not? Im getting SJDB soon, so Im wondering if I should soak them first.

[lowrider]

How do you know if your jean is sanforized or not? Im getting SJDB soon, so Im wondering if I should soak them first.

I don't think you can tell by looking at it. You'll have to find out from the seller or manufacturer. If the jean is raw, my recommendation is to soak it to get some of the wax off. If it's a one wash, then you're good to go - just wear it.

[ryan123]

I don't think you can tell by looking at it. You'll have to find out from the seller or manufacturer. If the jean is raw, my recommendation is to soak it to get some of the wax off. If it's a one wash, then you're good to go - just wear it.

How should I soak it? in warm water? for how long?

[lowrider]

Read this thread carefully:

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=12729

[kiya]

I don't think you can tell by looking at it. You'll have to find out from the seller or manufacturer. If the jean is raw, my recommendation is to soak it to get some of the wax off. If it's a one wash, then you're good to go - just wear it.

All Nudies are sanforized..

I'm assuming he means "Slim Jim Dry Black"..

[gimmegimme]

This thread needs pictures.

There are probably a few differences between the two...but in the end, you can have a great looking pair of either. Look at all the APC's posted in the Evolution thread that look fantastic...and I don't even need to mention all the unsanforized pairs....but I still enjoy reading all the opinions either way.

[Cameland]

I don't think its worth it to soak your nudies imo, they look better raw and crispy.

[CaptMomo]

somehow

i find nudies actually look and fit better wash after wash.

[Clench Million]

FWIW, I just soaked my dry denim jeans that I'd worn for a month. I did a 2.5 hour soak in warm water, not agitation. At the end of things the water was noticibly yellow in color, but didn't have any hints of blue it in.

I didn't notice any indigo loss. The waist shrunk back to how it was out of the box, but the legs didn't shrink (I pulled on em a bit though). The jeans feel as stiff as they were before and the creases in the jeans didn't change.

Basically no change at all. Which is much better than bad change I guess.

[Aniki88]

Curious to add to the topic:

If I have the Japan Blue x Momotaro jb0701 only wore them once but I would love to create nice honeycombs/whiskers through wear. Since from the above posts saying to soak once even if sanforized will make the jeans become softer, wont it be harder for honeycombs and whiskers to set?

[jwsach]

no soak for you