A.P.C -or- SugarCane

[kiz]

i want to get a nice pair of unwashed denim jeans. I'm not sure which brand is better quality and which will be more comfortable. I have pretty large thighs (weightlifting) and I like a looser fitting jean because of this. overall, which would be better as a "project" jean (a jean that i'll wear every day for a few months to get a kickass first wash out of)

[Geowu]

APC has a bit of a purple tone compared to Sugar Cane and are also lower waisted. That's all I know.

[kiz]

if i were to go APC, is the only diff between english and resue that the rescue is bootcut? optimally i want something with wide thighs, no bootcut, low rise, and button fly...unwashed of course. And do APC's run true to size now?

Edited by kiz on Apr 10, 2005 at 09:00 PM

[Geowu]

I don't own them, so... anyway the Rescues aren't exactly bootcut. Because they're selvage denim the outseam is straight. It is at the most some sort of semi-bootcut. Button fly, low waisted, 'wide legs' (whatever that might be). The english-cut are being replaced by the rescues. The english-cut, as for what I read here, you should buy 1 size down. The rescues would better be 2 or 3 sizes down than the actual waist measurement. Both are unwashed

As for the Sugar Canes on http://www.historypreservation.com there are two unwashed models, one is a 1945 Lee style and the other is a 1947 501xx (regular-slim) style.

Let's see if someone else can provide more help...

[wild_whiskey]

There is a significant difference in fit and feel between the Sugarcane (classic Levi's style) and A.P.C. (modern updated style). You're really looking at apples and oranges here - the waist on the A.P.C.'s will be almost 2 inches lower, the seat will be more fitted, and the legs are not tapered. The Sugarcane jeans are also a heavier denim and assumedly have some more vintage Levis features (although I cannot speak from experience as I haven't seen them in the flesh).

The question you want to ask yourself is - do you want a classic American look, or a more urban, modern look?

[Yakboy Equals Nurturer]

do APC's run true to size now?

No, but what size you get depends on how you plan to wash them. A pair of Rescues marked 32 fit more like a loose 34 first day. If you wash them soon they'll shrink down to something more like a 32...on the other hand if you're planning to leave them unwashed for an extended period, the shrinkage won't be as significant.

The Rescues are a really nice cut. Not a full bootcut at all, as stated above and there's plenty of room in the leg. More info in this thread:

http://superfuture.com/city/supertalk/index.cfm?page=topic&topicID=1768&start=1

[ringring]

With APCs the choice is pretty simple as most of the styles are made from the same fabric - you just pick the style you like (or in your case the ones that fit eg Anglais/Rescue). APCs are probably easier for most people outside of Japan to get hold of.

With Sugarcane the choice is more difficult - they use dramatically different denims from style to style, different embroideries on the back pocket, different fabric pocket bags, different washes etc.

Here's their site: http://www.toyo-enterprise.co.jp/ or http://www.sugarcane.jp/ (the first URL leads onto the second)

'Canes are top class

I noticed, in another thread, that Sptzbrg posted the link to a pair of One-Wash '47 'Canes going through a long wash and wear process. Here's the link again: http://letgoasyoulike.fc2web.com/sc1947.htm - 13 pages!

Also, as the link aptly demonstrates, you don't necessarily need to wear jeans from a raw state to produce great wear marks.

Edited by ringring on Apr 11, 2005 at 12:33 AM

[kiz]

well as i want ot be wearing these jeans practically every day this upcoming summer i'm thinking that APC's lighter denim would fit the bill better. i'm weary of the resue because of the bootcut (i'm a short guy) and i'm not sure bootcut would look too great on me. i really just want a very comfortable jean that wont restrict my movement in anyway. So right now i'm thinking size 30 (im usually 32) anglais.

[skecr8r]

I would go with Sugar Cane as the 1947 is a really nice model for any "fanatic" or wearer with style as the jeans are super fly quality and fits really nice with both sneakers and 'low' (moccasins) shoes.

ready to decieve, recieve, overpower / loving someone is to believe, to relieve, slow shower/she is bathing/ love her needs her like fur/

[Slammin]

anyone got some more info on sugar cane?

what do you think of the hawai' model?

[sbbbjm]

hmm i don't know why people are saying size down. in diesel, paper denim, seven, earnest sewn and rock and republic i wear 31. in APC English cut i also bought a 31 and it was pretty snug at first but they have stretched a good bit and are perfect. if i could do it again i'd probably go with the 32 just so i wouldn't have to go through them being snug at first.

since you said you are shorter, i also think the APC would be more flattering on you bc the sugarcane's are pretty high and you don't want them riding up really high on your shorter build. the apc's are lower but they aren't low enough to where they will make you look shorter at all. also, the APC's don't taper at all which is always a plus to me.

[Serge d Nimes]

diesel's 31 is actually 33"

I'm not illiterate, I just can't type!

[misterdobalina]

the sugar canes are all 1:1 based on old levi's 501xx cuts like 1947, 1937 and 1933 or lee's like the 1934 101.

that's why they're not low rise... there was no low rise back in the 40's when true men used to wear true denims.

[Geowu]

I like my new APC's

low rise, slim-fit

[Serge d Nimes]

do you have the new "tight" ones? what is the bottom hem measurement? how much did you size down? got any pics? I'm getting a pair!

I'm not illiterate, I just can't type!

Edited by Serge d Nimes on Apr 13, 2005 at 12:03 PM

[wild_whiskey]

Serge, whose redline is that in the new sig?

[Geowu]

hi serge,

I've got an unisex jeans, size 30. My size on Diesel Zathan is 33.

Good luck with your tight jeans!

[Serge d Nimes]

Wild, in the sig is a pair of Evisu Italy jeans. It looks like Kurabo 10 oz denim.

I'm not illiterate, I just can't type!

[kiz]

okay, I'm a 33 in zathan and i want to get an anglais that i will keep unwashed for as long as possible. what size do you guys recommend that i buy? also how does the length work with A.P.C, and if it is too long is there any specific way i should have them tailored?

[Geowu]

hi, if you're the same size I am, then I suggest size 32 on Anglais! Because they are sized differently from Rescue and Unisex. The lenght is long, I use it the way it is without even folding (the bottom of the Unisex can't pass through my shoes) I guess it will create some nice effects of fading.

To tailor the lenght, probably you should just cut it on the right place, fold the bottom some 2 times and then stitch with the same color. No reason to keep the original part.