b_F's Big Samurai Fit Guide

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Samurai Guide

Welcome to my fit guide for Samurai Jeans. Each post will be dedicated to one single model. There will be a bit of information about the model and I will post post soak fit pictures of every pair and also pre and post soak measurements.
Post soak means normally two initial soaks in the bathtub with hottest tap water and light agitation by hand. If I used a different method I will mention that.
I might add measurements of each pair after stretching and wearing for a long time.
Hopefully everyone can profit from this thread.

I decided to make a new thread for it, because my previous fit guide ist just hidden in the normal Samurai thread.

My stats: 6' and about 182 lbs
1,84 m and about 83 kg



Samurai Q&A

Lot#
The Lot# is the consecutive number of the year of production. So it indicates when the pair was made. Samurai started to produce in 1998 (Lot.0). The current Lot# for this year is Lot.15

 

Leather patch

The two Samurais on the leather patch are Miyamoto Musashi and Sasaki KojirÅ

 

Soaking
As Samurai jeans are unsanforized they should be soaked. Here's a little guide how you could soak.

 

 

 

Samurai Denim Care

Well, here it goes:

It begins saying that this is just one example of how to go about washing your denim, but by no means a definitive method. Since denims are personal, there should be personal styles of washing, too. Makes sense.


Soaking:
The guy demonstrating (they call him "Master") prefers a 42 degrees C or cooler, luke warm water with a small tablespoon of salt. Some people prefer adding vinegar but most people don’t put anything in it. People believe salt will help get rid of the "glue" (I wonder if they mean starch and stuff) and extra indigo. At the same time, salt will help the main indigo to stay on the material better. So it says. And some people soak at body temperature.

I’ve read in other places you’re supposed to soak after you turn the jeans inside-out, but Master is doing it normal, outside-out. Make sure to take all the air bubbles out and let it soak for about 1-2 hours. Anything longer than that could be annoying to the rest of your household, but also unnecessary.


Wash:
Detergents without bleach or phosphate(?) are best to use, but sounds like it really doesn’t matter that much. Master used a detergent soap and swirled it in the water few times. The key thing is to make sure that the water’s not too soapy — it shouldn’t be foaming.

Even with the non-foaming water, you’ll see that by the end of the wash the water has turned quite blue. It says wash is important because you get rid of oils accumulated during the making of the jeans.

Oh and Master washed the jeans inside-out.


Rinse:
The key to rinsing is to rinse very well. Make sure all the detergent’s gone. Some people add a tiny bit of detergent at the end of the rinse cycle to add a little sheen to the jeans, but Master thinks that’s really stupid because it will hurt the cloth. So rinse.


Getting rid of moisture.
Try to use your hands and get rid of water BEFORE the washing machine gets into the spinning drying cycle. Denim, which is heavy to begin with, with water can spin in an awkward way inside a machine, which can, in the long run, cause some unwanted damage to the jeans.

Definitely, do not twist. Which will hurt the denim, again. Instead, push and massage the moisture out like in their photo (see my previous post).

And don’t use the spin cycle too much. It’s not good for your denim.


Drying:
Master dried the jeans still inside-out. Make sure to get rid of the wrinkles, especially in the selvaged area before you hang it. Some people will hang it upside-down, but that’s up to the user. The best time to dry is morning ‘till noon, but as long as it’s in a place with a good air current in a shady area, it should work just fine.

Drying it right in the sun is bad. It’s because the moisture in the jeans can “boil†suddenly and cause damage to the cloth. Air drying in a freezing weather is also horrible.

Dryer machine is not a bad thing, since you can get a steady and controlled environment for the jeans to dry. But the downside is huge. Over-drying can cause an irreversible damage. So they can’t recommend it. Some experienced dryer machine users, though, have tricks using towels and/or tennis balls with the jeans.


Extra:
Master used mink oil on the patch when it was half dry. For long-term effect. I guess it’s kind of like baseball gloves.

Master also recommended cutting off all the excess strings that come out after the wash. Some people prefer to have them fall off naturally, but that’s up to the user.

Some more information, brought to you by the fabulous coleslawyum:
 

 

So just to refresh…

- Samurai Jeans is always made with UN sanforized fabric, which means it will shrink.
- Samurai Jeans are manufactured larger than tagged size to accommodate for shrinking, although there are exceptions to this in certain lots and sizes, it is not an exact science
- Stacking is caused by long inseams, as well as wearing the waistband on your knees
- You will get the most shrinking out of your Samurai Jeans by sticking them in the washing machine in hot water and then drying them to death
- You will get unwanted creases if you wash it in a machine, an alternative is to soak in hot water and then hang dry
- You will only get a small of amount of shrinking if you only soak and hang dry
- The jeans will continue to shrink and stretch as you wear and wash forever or until you die or the jeans die or if you give them away

My personal opinion on jeans care:

- Wash your dirty ass jeans
- Hem your 50" inseams

Edited January 7, 2014 by beautiful_FrEaK

[beautiful_FrEaK]

S0510XX

Samurai's flagship cut. High rise straight leg fit. First realeased in 1998. The denim changed over the last couple of years. Now it's the 15oz Texas Cotton denim which was first used in 2006 but released on the S0510XX not before 2007.

Size 34x36 Lot.12 (SD1)

Measurements (soaked and then machine washed for more shrinkage)

waist: 34,5 / 32

front rise: 12 / 11,25

back rise: 16 / 15,5

thigh: 14 / 13,5

knee: 10,25 / 9,875

leg opening: 9,25 / 8,75

inseam: 38,5 / 36,5

The flasher

Denim Close-Ups

Edited October 15, 2020 by beautiful_FrEaK

[beautiful_FrEaK]

S0500XX

Released in 2006. It uses the 15oz Texas Cotton denim.

Size 33x36 Lot.12 (SD2)

Measurements

waist: 34 / 32,5

front rise: 11,25 / 10,75

back rise: 15,5 / 15

thigh: 13 / 12,75

knee: 9,5 / 9,125

leg opening: 8,75 / 8,25

inseam: 38,25 / 36,5

 

Size 34x36 Lot.11 (SD1)

Measurements

waist: 34,5 / 34

front rise: 11,75 / 11

back rise: 15,75 / 15

thigh: 13,25 / 12,75

knee: 9,75 / 9,25

leg opening: 8,75 / 8,5

inseam: 38,5 / 36,5

The flasher

Denim Close-Ups

Edited October 15, 2020 by beautiful_FrEaK

[beautiful_FrEaK]

S0510XX66-II

Released in 2003. 2nd says it uses 15oz denim but the flasher says 14oz. As far as I know it uses the same denim, which was used on the older S0510XX.

Size 34x36 Lot.7 (SD1)

Measurements

waist: 34 / 33

front rise: 11,75 / 11

back rise: 14,5 / 14

thigh: 12,5 / 12,25

knee: 10 / 9,75

leg opening: 9 / 8,75

inseam: 37,75 / 36

Measurements right after the 5th wash

waist: 32,5

front rise: 11

back rise: 14,125

thigh: 12,25

knee: 9,25

leg opening: 8,5

inseam: 34,5

The flasher

Denim Close-Ups

Edited October 15, 2020 by beautiful_FrEaK

[beautiful_FrEaK]

S0510XX66-RR

Released 2009 using the 15oz Teaxas Cotton denim but with a red selvage line. A part of the money goes to www.japan-rescue.com

Size 34x36 Lot.12-178 (SD1)

Measurements

waist: 34 / 33

front rise: 11,5 / 11

back rise: 14,75 / 14,25

thigh: 12,5 / 12,25

knee: 10 / 9,5

leg opening: 9 / 8,75

inseam: 37,75 / 36,5

The flasher

Denim Close-Ups

Edited October 15, 2020 by beautiful_FrEaK

[beautiful_FrEaK]

S510XX19oz

Samurai's flagship cut in the 19oz denim. First released in 2003. The arcuates changed from contrast to hidden over the years.

Size 34x36 Lot.10 (SD1)

Measurements (bought in one-wash state)

waist: 32

front rise: 11,5

back rise: 15,75

thigh: 13,375

knee: 9,5

leg opening: 8,5

inseam: 36

The flasher

Denim Close-Ups

Edited October 15, 2020 by beautiful_FrEaK

[beautiful_FrEaK]

S510XX21oz

Samurai's flagship cut in the 21oz denim. Released in 2007.

Size 34x36 Lot.12 (SD1)

Measurements

waist: 34 / 32

front rise: 12 / 11,5

back rise: 16,5 / 15,75

thigh: 14 / 13,25

knee: 10,125 / 9,75

leg opening: 9 / 8,75

inseam: 38,25 / 36,25

The flasher

Denim Close-Ups

Edited October 15, 2020 by beautiful_FrEaK

[beautiful_FrEaK]

S5000VX

Mid rise straight leg fit. Using 17oz Zero (VX) denim.

Size 34x36 Lot.10 (SD1)

Measurements

waist: 34,5 / 34

front rise: 11,5 / 11

back rise: 14,75 / 14,25

thigh: 13 / 12,5

knee: 9,875 / 9,5

leg opening: 9,25 / <9

inseam: 37,5 / 36,5

The flasher

Denim Close-Ups

Edited October 15, 2020 by beautiful_FrEaK

[beautiful_FrEaK]

S5000BK

Mid rise straight leg fit in black 17oz denim. Released in 2006.

Size 34x36 Lot.12 (SD1)

Measurements

waist: 34,5 / 32

front rise: 11,5 / 11

back rise: 14,75 / 14,25

thigh: 13 / 12

knee: 9,875 / 9,25

leg opening: 9,25 / 8,75

inseam: 38,5 / 35,75

The flasher

Denim Close-Ups

[beautiful_FrEaK]

S3000VX

Samurai's WWII cut. Higher rise with a full leg. Using the 17oz Zero (VX) denim. Released 2005.

Size 34x36 Lot.11 (SD1)

Measurements (soaked and then machine washed for more shrinkage)

waist: 34,5 / 33

front rise: 12,25 / 11,75

back rise: 15 / 14,75

thigh: 13,25 / 13

knee: 10,5 / 10,125

leg opening: 9,25 / 8,875

inseam: 37,75 / 36,25

The flasher

Denim Close-Ups

Edited October 15, 2020 by beautiful_FrEaK

[beautiful_FrEaK]

S710XX

Mid rise slim tapered leg fit. Using the 19oz denim.

Size 35x36 Lot.14 (TTS)

Measurements (only one cold soak)

waist: 35,5 / 34,5

front rise: 11,875 / 11,25

back rise: 15,5 / 14,875

thigh: 13 / 12,75

knee: 9,875 / 9,5

leg opening: 8,5 / 8,25

inseam: 39 / 37,625

Size 33x36 Lot.12 (SD2) <--- I would NOT recommend this. I sold my pair

Measurements

waist: 34 / 33

front rise: 11 / 11

back rise: 14,75 / 14,5

thigh: 12,5 / 12

knee: 9,25 / 9

leg opening: 8 / 7,75

inseam: 36,5 / 35,5

The flasher

Edited October 15, 2020 by beautiful_FrEaK

[beautiful_FrEaK]

S500JX-LR

Limited edition from 2010. Using 18oz Texas Cotton denim in LHT and RHT. The cut should be S0500 cut but it's more between the S0500 and S5000.

Size 34x36 Lot.13-140 (SD1)

Measurements

waist: 35 / 33

front rise: 11 / 10,25

back rise: 15,375 / 14,5

thigh: 13 / 12,5

knee: <10 / 9,25

leg opening: 9 / 8,5

inseam: 38,75 / 36,25

Fit after 3 weeks of daily wear

The flasher

Denim Close-Ups

RHT

LHT

[beautiful_FrEaK]

S5000VX24oz

Mid rise straight leg fit. It uses a 24oz heavy denim (loomstate) which should shrink to a 27ot denim. Samurai used

the 24oz RHT denim first in 2009 on the S510XX24oz and I'm quite positive that this 24oz VX denim uses the same

specification as its XX counterpart.

Size 34x36 Lot.14 (SD1) Numbered pair #300

Measurements

waist: 34 / 33

front rise: 11,5 / 10,75

back rise: 15 / 14

thigh: 13 / 12,5

knee: 9,5 / <9,5

leg opening: 9 / 8,75

inseam: 37,5 / 35,75

The flasher

Denim Close-Ups

[beautiful_FrEaK]

S510AI-OGSP

Samurai's flagship cut in a new 17oz denim. Hank dyed with Natural Indigo (dyed 24 times). The used cotton is 100% Organic Cotton. Vermilion colorselvage line threads dyed with Bengala (弁柄), also known as "Red Iron Oxide", an ancient dyestuff and the oldest coloring agent known to mankind.

Size 34x36 Lot.14-040 (SD1)

Measurements

waist: 34 / 32,5

front rise: 12 / 11,25

back rise: 15,75 / 15

thigh: 13,5 / 12,875

knee: 10,25 / 9,625

leg opening: 9,25 / 9

inseam: 38,125 / 35,75

The flasher

Denim Close-Ups

[beautiful_FrEaK]

who knows...

maybe some more Q&A

[coleslawyum]

Very awesome fit guide. Thanks.

[le14]

do you mind posting up your true waist size?

that would help in figuring out to downsize etc.

Thanks a bunch.

[blm14]

didnt you also have a pair of the AI10-SP?

[Toganpro]

do you mind posting up your true waist size?

that would help in figuring out to downsize etc.

Thanks a bunch.

If his sz 34s are SD1 and his sz 33s are SD2, then is his true waist size not 35?

[Awe]

excellent guide info.Thanks

[RRLselvageDenim]

Nice Thread. Like it.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

@le 14:

Toganpro is right...my true waist is 35. With a bit of math you could have answered that for yourself

@blm14:

no I don't own the AI-10SP. But I've got the AI-OGSP coming in

@all: thanks!

[Anders Helseth]

Your true waist is 35, however many of your jeans are shrunk down to 33 and 32. Does this mean you stretch the waist out to a 35 after wash? Which method of stretching do you use?

It may also have been the case that I have misunderstood something; if that is the case, I give my apologies in advance.

On the other hand, the guide is great and well-documented, and I believe it will be very useful to the Samurai-fans out there, past, present and future.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

well...at the point where I wear my jeans, I measure about 35". But fat is very forgiving so I can pull the measureing tape to 32-33"

but you are correct, the jeans stretch out to 34 - 34,5" after long wear. so as I always say, waist is the smallest problem in sizing as it will easily stretch back to pre-soak measurements (although that might be harmful for the denim and the jeans)

[Anders Helseth]

well...at the point where I wear my jeans, I measure about 35". But fat is very forgiving so I can pull the measureing tape to 32-33"

but you are correct, the jeans stretch out to 34 - 34,5" after long wear. so as I always say, waist is the smallest problem in sizing as it will easily stretch back to pre-soak measurements (although that might be harmful for the denim and the jeans)

Thanks for clearing that up

[Turntabloid]

beautiful_FrEaK, what are your top5 samurais?

are there any other tapered, or even slim cuts available, next to the 710?

I found:

S003JP (slim straight)

S0505XX II (slim)

S0710 (tapered)

S526XX (slim)

any experience with the slimmer cuts, except the 710, which you already posted in this thread?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Samurai is not really a brand for slim/skinny cuts except the S003JP.

You could add the S0610LX to the list of the slimmer fits and if you size down, the S0500XX also fits rather slim.

From your posted list I only have experience about the S710XX. And I wouldn't include the S526XX in there

And about the Top5, I'll get back at you later

[Turntabloid]

bedankt - really interested in your top5!

[coleslawyum]

B_F, I'm looking forward to your top 5 as well. For me, the 510RR-66 is in there somewhere.

[dylanbooth78]

reserved S5000VX24oz when it comes out in June or July

i am really GASing for a pair of these now! i think im gonna go for a size 34"! im in a 33" S510XX24L at the mo and they are a wee bit tight!! if i grab a pair i will race you to the perfect fade;)