Red Cloud & Co. jeans

[ranonranonarat]

cross posting this from another forum. someone took a trip to the taobao shop to check out red cloud & co. denim.

visted a near by Red Cloud dealer today...

this is their "shop"

in all fairness I have to say that they are a local China internet shop only

"shop diaplay"

right to left:

1 - R400 W31, sold out

2 - R423XX special, W30

3 - R400S, W29

4 - R400S, W30

5 - 403, W32, sold out

the purchases of the day...

[ranonranonarat]

ok - let's continue with yesterday's fit pictures

838D - Army Pants - washed

Size M

Size S

I was told that these pants don't shrink any further - I bought 1 pair in size S - waist measured 84.5cm/33 1/4" - I did wash them yesterday at 90C - they are dry now and fit very well - they did not shrink noticably

5500 - Worker Pants - raw/no wash

Size W32 - no wash

I bought 1 pair in size W32

pre-wash measurements - waist measured 93cm/36 1/2" - I did wash them yesterday at 90C - they are drying now - will measure as soon as they are dry - seems that measurements are off compared to tagged size by 1 or 2 sizes, will confirm later

[ranonranonarat]

No.2

Size W30 - Sample only

Size W32 - raw/no wash

S400 - Levis 1947 cut - WWII "Remix"

Size W32 - washed - sample only

Size W32 - raw/no wash

Amazing denim! - thick, slubby, soft - denim comparable to PBJ XX-005, but softer - serious leg twist on the one wash sample - modern cut: low rise, slim legs

I bought 1 pair in size W32

pre-soak measurements:

Waist 35"/89cm

Front rise 10 3/4"/27cm

Back rise 13 3/4"/35cm

Thighs 12 1/4"/31cm

Knee 9 1/4"/23.5cm

Hem 8 1/4"/21cm

Inseam 36 3/4"/93.5cm

Side seam 47"/119.5cm

soaking rght know - post-soak measurements soon...

[ranonranonarat]

S436

Size W32 raw/no wash

S423XX

Size 32 raw/no wash

nice denim, nice fit - still debating with myself about getting this one, too

R424XX - Levis 1947 cut

Size W32 raw/no wash

I bought 1 pair in size W32

pre-soak measurements:

Waist 34 3/4"/88.25cm

Front rise 11 1/2"/29cm

Back rise 15"/38cm

Thighs 12 1/2"/32cm

Knee 9 1/2"/23.5cm

Hem 8 1/2"/21.5cm

Inseam 38"/97cm

Side seam 48 1/2"/123cm

soaking rght know - post-soak measurements soon, but I have been told that it should shring 5-6cm in width and 8-10cm in length. it can stretch back over time by about 4cm.

apparently, Red Cloud is preparing to release a natural indigo version of this denim and cut to be released towards the end of this year (or early next)!

R423XX

Size 32 raw/no wash

[ranonranonarat]

bought one in size W34 for b_f, here are the pictures and pre-soak measurments (I'm sure he doesn't mind):

IMO this denim is very close in appearance to Fullcount 1101.

pre-soak measurements:

Waist 36 1/2"/92.5cm

Front rise 11 3/4"/30cm

Back rise 15 1/4"/39cm

Thighs 13"/33cm

Knee 10 1/4"/26cm

Hem 9"/22.5cm

Inseam 38"/96.5cm

Side seam 48 3/4"/124cm

I'm sure that b_f will post post-soak measurements eventually...

bonus pic - my pairs soaking...

[gregornz]

Cool! Where is that thread originally?

[ranonranonarat]

http://www.indigoroots.com/index.php?topic=399.0

here you go.. its on the last page of the thread.

[gregornz]

Nice one, thanks for that.

I've notices the leg twist on the 400's too... more than on the 403's. Interestingly it's much much more pronounced on the left leg... why would that be?

[easy_hk]

^may cuz of the heavier denim 17oz vs 13.7oz

more shrinkage on the 17oz

[drz]

nice, liking the army pants, how much are those around 700 yuan?

[gregornz]

^may cuz of the heavier denim 17oz vs 13.7oz

more shrinkage on the 17oz

Yeah, but why would one leg twist more than another? Maybe it's due to the way I'm wearing them - or is it possible that he has used different twill for each leg? I think evisu does this sometimes?

[ranonranonarat]

there are instances where different twill is used for each leg (e.g. Samurai S500JX-LR LHT on one leg and RHT on the other leg) but in this case, no. the denim used throughout is a RHT denim.

when denim is woven, the warp is laid across horizontally and the weft is weaved in at an angle from left to right. when you observe the contruction on a pair of pants, the left leg is usually overlaid above the right leg and when they are shrunk, they experience warping. since both legs are made of the same denim, they actually warp in the same direction with the same degree. but because the left leg faces less obstruction to the warping since it is overlaid on top, the left leg actually warps more than the right leg..

[Gnob]

After seeing FOXY's, I got totally drawn to r400/s400.. As what RC blog said, their signature 17oz. The fit is so right...

Ranon, you can consider those two as your pair!

[gregornz]

Interesting ranonranonrat! What does it mean by 'overlaid' on top during construction?

I notice that my 403's [which I'm wearing today] have about equal twisting.

[ranonranonarat]

in some cases, twisting just occurs more on one side than the other, some have extreme twisting on both sides, some none at all. i have no idea what the real reason is but i suspect that it has to do with how tightly they are weaved and the shrinkage itself.

overlaid meaning that if you look at your pants, the left side is actually "on top" of the right side and then sewn.. not sure if you get the picture now but in this way, they kind of hold the right leg in some way and resist the twist by a bit. its hard to explain in words.

Gnob, i am back to my dilemma now. haha, i dont really want to deal with 17oz in this kind of weather as i sweat fairly easily. might still go for the R424xx eventually though. will only be picking up one pair since i have got to watch my money a bit tighter since i am planning for something else. ha.

[gregornz]

I like the 423's and the 424's, but personally I couldn't resist seeing what happens to this blended weft denim over time. Plus, I prefer the S400 details to the others [though the older 424's have a nice blue selvedge line....]

Point taken about the heavier weight in summer, it's 20% heavier. I sweat like a bastard at the best of times though, so it's six of one half a dozen of the other I reckon....

On another topic - the accurate on the back of the S400 is so light it can't be noticed unless you look hard. It's screen printed on I think... I've heard of fade-to-reveal accurate stitching - do you guys think the accurates on the S400 will fade with the denim, or become more noticeable over time?

[ranonranonarat]

cool. i didnt manage to get an eyeball on the S400 hidden arcs you were talking about. wonder how that works out. you have indeed got an eye for detail because i quite easily missed out on them. seanieboy has got the S400 with him now already, so maybe he can verify on that. as far as i know there are indeed fade-to-reveal arcs stitching (not sure if they are screen printed or stitched on though) but i have no experience with them, perhaps b_F can shed some light on that since he has great experience with Samurai.

[gregornz]

I'm 99% sure they are screen-printed as I saw a photo of him screen printing on the blog. The certainly aren't stitched. There is a photo I posted of them a few pages back, but the colour is out of whack and they look much more contrasted than they actually are.

I'm happy to hear that B_F is a samurai man, that'll make his thoughts even more interesting. And seanieboy has received his??? Pics! Thoughts!

IMG_3395 by gregornz, on Flickr[/img]

[Gnob]

Ranon, not a bad choice. You will find what you like. Then again, I wish you will get one, so that this thread will be pretty much alive at least for awhile. ^^

Yeah I have heard of some arcs being fade-to-reveal.. I seriously think that those hidden arcs will have a very nice contrast when the denim has aged.

Thoughts aside..

STOP posting pictures of S400!!! Almost wanting to ask Ranon to proxy my 2nd pair!

[easy_hk]

nice, liking the army pants, how much are those around 700 yuan?

amry pants @400

[gregornz]

STOP posting pictures of S400!!! Almost wanting to ask Ranon to proxy my 2nd pair!

LOL, sorry!

[Gnob]

Hey gregornz, was just joking..

I enjoy the photos as much as the others. Don't worry so much about the leg twist. Some of my jeans have the same prob as you, and they are all on the left leg..

[gregornz]

I know you were just joking!

I'm not worried about the leg twist; just find it interesting that it's more pronounced on one leg...

Gnob, when are you expecting your 400's? And you ordered something else too?

[ranonranonarat]

oh i know why i didn't see the arcs on seanieboy's pair now. his was the R400 and not the S400, which explains why i didn't see any arcs, hidden or not hidden.

Gnob's 400s should be arriving anytime tomorrow or friday (i hope)..

[Gnob]

Gregornz: Yeah I am expecting my 436 and a blue workshirt. Didnt get more jeans. Was tempted to... But just have to hold back.

Ranon: yeah.. Thanks for informing me.. Wasnt a very long wait..

I am hoping for a good fit. I am relatively small in my waist actually, usually 29/30.. But I chose 31 for my 436.. Fingers crossed. I'm guessing it's gotta be a hot soak...

[easy_hk]

^ w31 436 for usual 20/30 waist, think will be too big for u

[beautiful_FrEaK]

yip, I'm a Samurai man

but i'm looking forward to the R423XX, FOXY bought for me. I hoped the waist would be a tad smaller (more than 90 cm than 92 cm) but I'll shrink the shit out of them. I really think these are like "little" Fullcountts but I'll wait and tell more when FOXY brings the pairs to Germany

[Gnob]

Keen to sell: 436, size 31

Want to buy: r400/s400....size 30.....

Shit... Bad news... But thanks.. Just wait and see, maybe the cinch back helps...

[ranonranonarat]

Keen to sell: 436, size 31

Want to buy: r400/s400....size 30.....

Shit... Bad news... But thanks.. Just wait and see, maybe the cinch back helps...

cinch backs weren't meant to be worn slim anyway, so those might be a good fit for you

[beautiful_FrEaK]

well..I'm really thinking the waist is that "oversized" to make it easier to downsize on the pairs, which I'm sure of a lot of Asian with the thinner legs are able to and are going to downsize. Damn, my fat European build