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24 oz. Jeans made in u.s.a.

klue

By klue
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klue

klue

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I have been building these jeans today and have really met my match. The denim is so thick many traditional construction techniques cannot be used. It would be great to talk with someone withexperience building these jeans. Does anyone know of any jeansmakers in the u.s., or even just English speaking That have built 24 oz. Denim jeans?

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denimotaku

denimotaku

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what problems have you come across? I think once denim fabrics go into that weight catergory, you will need to change the machinery you use. Just as there are specialised industrial machines made for denim fabrics between the 12 - 19 oz weights, i'd imagine the machines you would use for anything heavier would most likely be upholstery machines meant for medium to heavy leathers. Either that or changing needles sizes above the commonly used 18 - 22 size and using crap loads of silicone spray on the needle to eliminate the heat building up from the friction.

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denimotaku

denimotaku

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yeah carpet machines sound like a good idea too. especially for overlocking or safety stitching the inseam at the crotch.

When i do alterations on heavier fabrics, especially chain-stitch hems, i have noticed that the inseam and outseam sections that are rolled into the hem have had some of the excess cut off to minimise the thickness.

Especially since the majority of machines that are sewing the hems are union special 43200's and are limited to a certain needle size, unless they have been modified to take a bigger needle in the shaft, feeders and needle plate.

In some instances you could use a heavier duty machine to do another task, like setting up a US waistband machine like the 51800 to do hems since the machine can take up to a 24 or 25 needle.

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klue

klue

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Thank you all for your info. The silicone spray is a nice tip. I have been struggleing with the beltloops, I have manage trought the rest of the jeans, couldn't sew a top button hole. I have been using an old walkingfoot, blackhead. I had to hand sew some areas. I might just do suspender buttons. I'll post pics tomorrow.

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klue

klue

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I couldn't do a button hole so I made a mini buckle closure system. I don't know howit will work with a belt, so I might just do suspenderbuttons. f03d4d0c.jpgadac14f1.jpgb6fe3411.jpgad7f2605.jpg08f88ab4.jpg

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klue

klue

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they look pretty cool...hope they hold up though!

I don't think a stronger Jean has been made in this country's history

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klue

klue

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Is that Kuroki? Nice rivets by the way hand hammered is the way to go.

I got this denim from collect co. Ltd, I think they are a parent co of momotoro

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rnrswitch

rnrswitch

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I don't think a stronger Jean has been made in this country's history

I don't think a stronger Jean has been made in this country's history(10).

There. I fixed it for you so you don't have to go back and edit your post.

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klue

klue

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I wasn't being sarcastic, I have used the strongest denim ever made with the toughest thread available, with heavy hand peened rivets, and extra strong handsewn sections. What jeans have been made in usa that are stronger?

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rnrswitch

rnrswitch

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I wasn't being sarcastic, I have used the strongest denim ever made with the toughest thread available, with heavy hand peened rivets, and extra strong handsewn sections. What jeans have been made in usa that are stronger?

Well, I would like to say that just because I have the strongest/sturdiest materials when I set out to put something together does not mean my product will be the strongest most sturdiest product out there.

Some of a item's quality comes from its craftsmanship and I am not saying you are a horrible craftsman, but there are more experienced/better craftsmen out there that can put jeans together.

I just was trying to joke around, because I thought it was somewhat of a hyperbolic statement.

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rnrswitch

rnrswitch

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A denim noob and already cocky. Jeez, I'm sure you'll do well marketing your jeans

klue is not a denim noob.

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klue

klue

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Well, I would like to say that just because I have the strongest/sturdiest materials when I set out to put something together does not mean my product will be the strongest most sturdiest product out there.

Some of a item's quality comes from its craftsmanship and I am not saying you are a horrible craftsman, but there are more experienced/better craftsmen out there that can put jeans together.

I just was trying to joke around, because I thought it was somewhat of a hyperbolic statement.

It was a hyperbolic statement however I would like to say that Although there are people that can run straighter lines, I have found my craftsmanship to hold up on a number of people over the years. Everytime they need repairs it's because of failure of the denim itself, not the stitching. The lifespan of this denim will exceed any thread commonly used on jeans. We used a thread we bought from the manufacturer in person. New bedford thread co. It's the heaviest cotton thread they had and they said it was usually used for carseats in superpremium custom jobs. I use the lockstitch and hand stich both stronger than chainstitch. And all the tension is near perfect. Wonky but strong. I don't think I am the best jeansmaker by any means I'm only excited to be a part of denim history with old u.s. tech mixed with modern Japanese innovation as well as ancient Japanese tech and then remixed again by some industrious American youths preparing for the future

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rnrswitch

rnrswitch

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It was a hyperbolic statement however I would like to say that Although there are people that can run straighter lines, I have found my craftsmanship to hold up on a number of people over the years. Everytime they need repairs it's because of failure of the denim itself, not the stitching. The lifespan of this denim will exceed any thread commonly used on jeans. We used a thread we bought from the manufacturer in person. New bedford thread co. It's the heaviest cotton thread they had and they said it was usually used for carseats in superpremium custom jobs. I use the lockstitch and hand stich both stronger than chainstitch. And all the tension is near perfect. Wonky but strong. I don't think I am the best jeansmaker by any means I'm only excited to be a part of denim history with old u.s. tech mixed with modern Japanese innovation as well as ancient Japanese tech and then remixed again by some industrious American youths preparing for the future

I didn't really mean anything by my comments. Just joking around. I love your guys' drive and inspiration and most of all, your DIY mentality. Keep up the good work.

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tropicalbird

tropicalbird

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@rnrswtich

There are nuthuggers and nuthuggers, I believe you're the latter. I don't know if it's the natural adaptation of people to the neg-rep concept, but this is sad. Have you bothered to check Klue's creation and given at least a honest feedback?

@Klue

Your concept of denim making is an acute response to the automated, mass produced perfect blue jeans. Nothing wrong with that, but your doing it in so many dubious ways.

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rnrswitch

rnrswitch

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@rnrswtich

There are nuthuggers and nuthuggers, I believe you're the latter. I don't know if it's the natural adaptation of people to the neg-rep concept, but this is sad. Have you bothered to check Klue's creation and given at least a honest feedback?

.

Uhhh, yeah. I have gone through his blog and seen his hand sewn jeans in the home-made jeans thread. They ain't my style, but in the end I do like the idea of somebody doing something themselves and producing their own goods. They ain't my style, but I ain't gonna knock it.

nuthugger? So what is the antithesis of that? Are you a nutcruncher?

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