Jil Sander A/W 2009 Milan

[Tyro1]

photos courtesy of droogist at SZ

[Tyro1]

[Tyro1]

[Tyro1]

[geekbonchic]

Grey ribbed rounded shoulder sweater is good. I can't fuck with some of the more nipped waists, but the curves are all pretty interesting. But, as always, I prefer the more conventional cuts.

[Tyro1]

I like the hourglass silhouette on some of the knits, but not as much on the coats. The suit cut is interesting, close button placement and square bottom; and I enjoy the wide arms on some of the pieces.

Not a lot I would necessarily wear myself.

Want detail shots of shoes!

[geekbonchic]

Is Church's still doing the Jil shoes?

[jeepster]

large sleeves r large.

[MiniW]

wow i'm hating on this. the extreme shapes remind me of balenciaga for women way too much.

[juliaN.]

But, as always, I prefer the more conventional cuts.

I think that's the case with this collection here. The guy is running out of steam/ideas. Printed coats, experiments with volume and textures...the JS archive and house has good research on fabrics, but some of these just plain don't work. I think McQueen is better and more consistent when it comes to distorting shapes, and sometimes he just does it with a visual effect rather than trying to work the fabric really hard (ie SS09 McQueen main line).

Raf's work at JS men's f/w 08/09 was much more interesting, he did an impeccable cut with the suits and coats that season, and in particular the razor slim trousers which I think were the highlight. Here it seems the focus is on the coats, and some of the upper body suppression here just looks odd. Everything else is kinda blah, it's like the trousers and shoes were just put there to complete the outfit, completely bland and unassuming especially for a runway.

[dismalfuture]

Is Church's still doing the Jil shoes?

Church's only did the shoes for the debut season, when Prada owned both Jil and Church's. Best shoes ever, though. Raf design X Church's quality, I want as many pairs as I can find.

[dismalfuture]

Raf's work at JS men's f/w 08/09 was much more interesting, he did an impeccable cut with the suits and coats that season, and in particular the razor slim trousers which I think were the highlight. Here it seems the focus is on the coats, and some of the upper body suppression here just looks odd. Everything else is kinda blah, it's like the trousers and shoes were just put there to complete the outfit, completely bland and unassuming especially for a runway.

I agree, this past season's JS is one of favorites. Everything was just top-notch.

[DJ_Flame]

Preferred s/s 09. I can't stand the extreme waist suppresion either.

This collection looks damn repetitive.

[juliaN.]

s/s 09 isn't that great in person...i thought there was some interesting stuff going on from the pics. The knits are nothing special in terms of fabric or detail, although the hoop semi-zip was a neat little styling trick i suppose. Unstructured cotton jackets that are quite plain and pricey - might as well pay a bit more and get a Lanvin. The usual summer chinos...

then again it's quite early, more stuff will probably come in but i think there's a pretty good indication of the direction it's headed in...

[Guest Phrost]

don't like the hourglass shapes, it's too feminine. raf needs to separate his mainline from jil, too much ideas criss crossing. last winter was good but a/w 07 was perfect imo

[nuuro]

the silhouettes are interesting... i wouldn't say GREAT, but interesting.

and that's it. the rest seems pretty stale. i like the shoes, though... agree with julian about McQueen.

[kunk75]

don;t know why raf gets shit on-creating a whole new silouette. who else reinvents like this? even MMM's glove coat was cobbled together while raf's color expressions are woven.

fuck the haters. this shit is legend.

[ProfMonnitoff]

i like everything in this collection except for the corset coats. nothing wrong with a new silhouette as long as it's good.

[sawyer]

fabrics are unabashedly progressive, always liked that about the JS line

i'm not digging the silhouette, but maybe that's because i'm used to seeing all the unstructured goings-on ala ossendrijver, bailey, ervell and the like... raf always has some way of cutting against the grain of his peers

[ledger]

wouldnt really wear much, some of the less hourglassey shaped things were ite but id agree he is good at chopping and changing what he does with silhouettes whether i like the collection or not,althoug i must say not really feleing it.

[ProfMonnitoff]

IMO the thing the Jil Sander line is best at is slightly refining (rather than redefining) existing classics and then using innovative and high quality materials to make great wardrobe staples. There seems to be some of that going on in this collection, which is good.

[Guest Phrost]

[Guest Phrost]

[Guest Phrost]

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[BostonWardrobe]

this is just... awful.

[fg0d]

yeah im not really feeling this too much either, but the shoes are still pretty dope

[Tyro1]

derbies and oxfords(?) look good, but not sure they are any better, if even as good looking as previous raf for jil shoes

[Guest Phrost]

don;t know why raf gets shit on-creating a whole new silouette. who else reinvents like this? even MMM's glove coat was cobbled together while raf's color expressions are woven.

fuck the haters. this shit is legend.

the silhouette reminds me of balenciaga. it may be new for menswear, but the sucked in waist and flared hips aren't practical. what glove coat are you talking about?

[cotonblanc]

http://frillr.com/JilSanderFallWinter20092010Mens/

link to the hires shots.