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Obscur Ss08

kavaj

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kavaj

kavaj

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A very non-swedish design from this new brand. I am loving the cuts, and the work that have been put into the pieces is amazing. The fit is beutiful.

It is dark, but with the ultrathin and light materials the pieces are made for spring/summer. I am the model by the way, so you can trust my words.

Pictures:

2.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

8.jpg

More pictures avaible at the site: www.obscur.se

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chub rock

chub rock

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do you design this shit too kavaj or is it just richard? i thought it was the two of you. anyways don't let flippa k and puddle completely destroy your impression of the swedish fashion industry -- i own a bunch of mac and think its just as good if not better than most of my ann d. or rick owens or julius ets stuff. really well made and super slick. richard mentioned to me if youre interested in purchasing some items just send him an email...he'll hook you up!!

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avantster

avantster

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Good continuation, looks like the label is maturing. The pieces are much more well executed and I'm enjoying the more tailored jackets.

When I enquired 15 months ago, prices were something like;

grey draped sweater - 95 Euro

basket weave hoodie - 160 Euro

draped tank top - 50 Euro

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kavaj

kavaj

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Richard is the only designer, I have nothing to do with the design...

Yes, he really has matured. And I am really happy to see that, the collection shows a lot of individuality in this genre. The cutting and fit of the pieces are amazing, I would compare it many high-end designers.

As many of you said, the washed leather is something else. I will receive mine at the end of the week, I will post pictures then, can't wait.

Make sure you be a real pain in the ass for your local stores so they will pick up this line! Haha!

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goldengloves

goldengloves

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macabre.jpg

His name is Richard Söderberg. He is a talented young designer from Sweden whose label is called Obscure. He designs finely crafted pieces using a simple dark color palette and tons of creativity.

What have you been up to recently?

Well, I've been sowing my new collection and hooking up with my factory. Also I’m moving on Saturday, so I have much to do.

Working hard I see. Where are you moving?

I’m moving to Stockholm.

Splendid, where are you currently based? Are you actually working on the spring 08 line or have you begin doing some of the fall pieces?

I’m based in Helsingborg, a little city in southern Sweden. I recently finished SS, so I’m having a break.

A very deserved one I presume.

Actually, the SS collection wasn't that hard work. It's mostly random pieces I've put together into a collection. AW08 is going to be much more serious.

More profound, meaning that it will be expose a complex ideology, or more serious regarding the technical construction?

Well, I have tried to work towards something a bit more wearable. I'm putting more effort into every garment and at the same time trying to see the whole. I mostly make dark clothes but I don't strengthen the image of darkness with my styling (at least I'm trying not to). And whenever I make a light collection I try to make it more dark through precise style changes. The technical construction is always in development. I feel I'm in constant development and the more I work with different fabrics the more I get to know them and can use their full potential.

So you'll stop doing some of the very avant-garde stuff?

No, I’m trying to mix the avant-garde with wearable. Or that is what I will try and search for. The SS collection wasn’t very avant-garde, at all, but when I have more time and more effort to put into the collection, that is my goal.

And that's the key for successful line I believe. Are you afraid that someone might criticize you for doing a more approachable collection? Meaning that some may say that you will be becoming more commercial.

Indeed. As long as I am pleased with a collection, I never mind.

What happened to your first label "Macabre"? Why did you start doing Obscur?

Macabre and Obscur are the same thing. I just decided to stop using the name "Macabre" because it's just too "hard". It means death in all kinds of ways; so it feels kind of harsh, doesn't it?

Exactly. And how do you deal with the fact that many people compare you with Ann Demeulemeester?

I get that. I am very influenced by Ann d, Number 9, Rick Owens and so, but I try to keep an individual spirit.

You are doing an amazing job so far

Thank you very much

Which are the most iconic pieces that you currently offer?

The leather jacket , boots and zip-up neck. I like the raw-ness of zippers a lot, when used correctly.

Oh the long boots right those are going to be HUGE in a few months time

However, that might very well change for my coming collection haha

Would you ever consider designing other jeans than the skinny ones?

Of course. As I said this collection wasn’t super-serious. Therefore I didn't had the time nor energy to make more pants. The focus was kind of off pants. I don't think I will ever produce the typical blue-jeans, but who knows really. The jeans I like right now is a bit low crotch, baggy loose material . I love working with natural fabrics because they age and get their own personality.

I see. What things are going to change next season? Will start doing a full accessories line any time soon?

The next season will be more dressed; I try to make more and more accessories and i realize the importance of such…There will be a lot of blazers and trench coats. I'm going to try and add the rawness I’m talking about.

Excellent; so no printed t-shirts haha

haha maybe for stores but not official.

Well, I want to see the fall sketches as soon as you have any.

I’m also going to try and create more technical garments, for shows

So you will be doing more artsy runway shows or not?

Runway shows takes ALOT of work and right now I’m on my own. so not yet

Where is your market mainly located at?

Do you mean where I sell or where I’m aiming at?

Both

I'm not selling anywhere at the moment because I recently got my factory working, and I didn't want to sell "home-made" stuff. The aim is Japan, Europe eastern US, mainly small specialized stores. More exactly, do I think it will take time for me to have the ECONOMY to set up a good design team? The answer is yes, much time.

For more information and availability, go to http://www.obscur.se

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chris

chris

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do alot of people really compare this to ann? i dont see it at all. rick owens, very much, but not ann (not even prior to s/s 06). maybe a bit of julius as well.

but then again, people these days like to lump "ccp/ann/rick/raf" or anything remotely dark all together as one.

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