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Aesthetic, Design, and You.


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I've always been curious what draws people to certain designers and aesthetics; Is it your lifestyle, demographic, or views on life? I know with most of us, there is more to the story than just, "I like the way it looks or fits."

So answer away; Your favorite designer, look, etc. etc.

-Cas

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good thread, surprised nobody's responded yet so i'll go first:

My attraction to certain designers would be a view on life...not so much lifestyle, since mine is pretty calm and quiet for the most part.

For example, my favorite designer, Yohji Yamamoto, and my subsequent signature look which would be composed of pretty much all clothes by him: black gabardine overcoat/jacket, untucked white shirt, relaxed black pants, black boots; i'm drawn to this aesthetic and the individual garments themselves because i like what Yohji once said about making his clothing to be like armor, which protects the wearer from unwelcome eyes. In real life, i'm usually more toned down, so i like this because it provides a sense of uniformity yet at the same time makes me able to stand a bit taller because the clothes seem stark and strong yet kind of mysterious, so i don't have to do much talking myself :P. Fit wise i just like how the clothes are kind of big and proportions off, yet still flattering on me; it seems counter intuitive, but it's a very liberating feeling wearing Yohji's clothes.

And on the opposite side, I was always attracted to Hedi Slimane's suits because they provide a sense of structured elegance...combined with the attitude that Slimane normally projects on his clothes, the contrast brings about a nonchalant and kind of youthfully reckless feel when such formal clothes are worn with carelessness, even disdain.

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It's just such a daunting question to ask myself. Although it's totally proper that you of all people should answer this first Fade.

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This question is one that gets asked of me repeatedly and each time I think I will have a better answer than the last, but alas, I dont.

Aesthetic relative to personal taste is a very subjective matter and hard to explain, It just like asking why someone prefers AC/DC over Metallica...both similar products but try telling that to one of the fans. Since there are no factual points that could be raised as to why one is superior, the answer you will find invariably will be, "They sound better to me". This is exactly how I feel about design- Whatever looks better to me.

I thought I would take a leaf from Fade to Black2's book and use a quote since he pulled it off so well last time.

Well, huh, might as, might as well ask why is a tree good? Why is the sunset good? Why are boobs good? - Joe Dirt

So asside from art, design, beauty- all of which are appealing in different levels to different people, the beauty of fashion design to me, and what I respond to are garments that are simplistic, clean, and well tailored, whether that be modern or classic cuts. I dont have a favourite designer, but I feel almost every prominent designer has done something good in their career in relation to what I like. When it comes down to it, the things I like will have a somewhat timeless quality, both in construction and design and will outlive trends or fads. Which I guess is why I prefer simplistic design. As we all know though, with fashion you have an extra dimension to play around with and that is fit. So, even the most basic of designs can be altered and exaggerated at the skilled hands of anyone who is well versed in tailoring.

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Great response FTB!

Well as far as myself, I seem to be in more of a transitional phase with my life so this is being reflected through my way of dress. Life is starting to become more serious and at the same time, I like to keep my kid, rebelous ways in tact.

My aesthetic Is mostly a tee or button down shirt, leather jacket, slim jeans/trousers, and boots. A very simplistic outfit that I find quite versatile and perfect for every day situations.

So first off, for my young more casual side I really like Rick Owens. The ability to throw on a tee, jeans, leather jacket, and boots and have it all fit perfect to my body and be very easy is something I quite like, especially being my age. I like my color palette to be very grey, nothing too powerful or all one color, so RO clothing fits in perfectly.

Then for my more 'growing up' phase, Carol Christian Poell is absolutely perfect. It's not too overwhelmingly stuck up and polished but it has superb tailoring and materials and the artisanship is just incredible. The subtle detailing is just enough to set it a part from other designers and the way he conducts his business is something that I quite agree with and applaud.

Sorry, my response is kind of jumbled...my mind's everywhere right now. :)

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good responses guys.

goldengloves, your mention of being in a transitional phase life-wise while referencing Poell as one of your main style influences is an excellent example of how clothes subconsciously reflect our inner being. I like that because a lot of Poell stuff is impeccably tailored and constructed, but at the same time there's so many details in the clothes that a stiff, formal "adult" would balk at. By wearing it, it almost seems like you're sending a message of "i'm advancing to the adult stage of my life, but i'm telling conventional notions of what it means to be an adult to fuck off" good mix of maintaining rebellion yet structure at the same time.

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Fade, you definitely phrased that better than me. That's exactly what I was thinking in my head but couldn't really write here.

But your post makes me think; Maybe, instead you picking the clothes, the clothes pick you. While cliche sounding, I find it to be pretty true.

There are some designers that I appreciate to the fullest but it just isn't 'me' and there for I only stop and look.

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i basically would love to dress like bruno forrestier. i'd have to say i'm a huge fan of slimane no matter how much people hate him now because he is 'commercial' because seeing him in a pair of apcs back in early 2000 is almost what got me into men's fashion. as far as womenswear goes olivier theyskens is perhaps my favorite and i'd love to marry any woman who wore his shittttttttttttttttt holla.

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For me, I've been kind of lost for a long while in terms of the style that I wanted to pursue, I've tried several directions and it always felt like I'm going for something too mature... when truth is I'm 19 and I really don't feel the need to pretend I'm older.

So for a year or two now I've been absolutely captivated with Hedi Slimane and Raf Simons. Certainly they're quite different designers, although both deal with youth, but the combination of the two is my perfect look. Obviously as I've gotten into fashion this late (late 06) it's hard to build-up a good wardrobe when my dream items were released mostly in 04/05/06 for both Raf and Dior. But what I'm trying to do is combine the more punk-ish and overall out-there look of Raf, which includes oversized tops and skinny jeans, distressed stuff, darker colors with Slimane's perfect cut and the elegant rock look that he created in VotC and Strip.

Obviously the style I'm going for in dressing myself also corresponds to my life, music I listen to, values, and other things...

(I need to post more in WAYWT, since everything I've posted so far looks mostly different.)

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hopefully hedi's new line will be focused on his continuing to push the boundaries of men's tailoring and less of the rock and roll casual wear...then again, there's only so many ways you can do a suit. I wouldn't mind something along the lines of the 60's style suiting of votc either, which I thought blended classicism and youthful styling perfectly.

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haha now that you mention it, i just read over my first post in this thread and that shit was pretentious (and long winded) as the fuck.

nah fade, you never come off pretentious coz you actually have knowledge and your shit makes sense.

Glove`s reaction to someone liking limited shit pissed me off. I spend money on stuff largely to have what no one else I know has. I dont get these kids that buy 50 GR nikes and most of their wardrobe at the gap or AA or whatever when everyone else has the same shit. Whats the point? I`d rather have a few sneakers no one else can get/wants and a tight wardrobe of harder to find, better quality shit.

its all about elitism.

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good thread goldengloves! as always. I'm your superfan remember?

Um.. okay let me try this one..

As a designer myself I think the music I am into plays a gigantic role in how I dress and how I conceive my designs and concepts.

I guess it's the link between music and emotion. which shows through the way i dress.

And I think my beliefs, my view of the world, existence, and life in general dictates how I choose my clothes - how I choose to "package" myself.

Anyway, I've always liked neil barrett. His collections have always been sharp, sleek and clean. It's like a streamlined chrome arrow hitting a bulls eye made of ebony. It's elegant but not in the traditional super-sartorial sense. Modern. It's screams 'masculine'. I like how utilitarian his looks are in a way- the word that comes to my mind is something like an "equilibrium".

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Music & Culture has always had the biggest effect on how I dress and put myself across to the world. At first my style would of been influenced by mod/ska music and terrace(football) culture, a combination of rarity, tight tailoring and casualness. The designs of Massimo Osti for CP would of been the basis for most of my look 10-12 years ago and I am still hugely influenced by him when it comes to quality of fit/fabric/construction. Unlike where casual culture ended up the clothing was about understatement and blending in while as Milspex put it, a knowledge you have something of rarity on your back.

My look has developed since then but my premise remains the same, understated and a cut above the rest. For casual/workwear my job as a designer and my head space influences what I wear nowadays, a lot of Margaret Howell, folk, Filippa K, Paul Smith & Japanese denim(basically retaining elements of casual culture but infusing with a sense of folksy Englishness and American workwear) while for more dressed up affairs/nights out, I remain a mod at heart and its all about tight tailoring and buttoned up shirts...

So in summary I'd say that most people are drawing to certain designers because what they see been created by these designers is reflected in whatever culture their into though I do find with a younger generation this tend to hold less true...

...Anyway, good thread, It's always good to reflect on what drew you to the clothes you wear...

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huh? Just because his response wasnt long winded and pretentious its not allowed in your thread? oh okay.

Milspex, I don't want to clog up this thread but it's obvious the response, in all caps, was not that of serious response.

I wasn't asking for long winded and prententious answers, I was looking for truthful and thought provoking answers and up until artificial's post, this is what was being had in this thread. But I digress....

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I haven't really thought about it, but I'm pretty sure I have a ground/basic sense of what I like that developed early on after seeing things in history books, movies, music videos, art, magazines when I was younger? ...but for me a huge influence is definitely history.

There are items or looks that I definitely like because they are associated with ideas, movements, feelings, memories, or actions that I believe in or thought were cool. And then there are things that i like or think are ugly for whatever unexplored/gut reason.

I'm sure there may be a pattern to the madness that is my personal taste, but honestly the stuff i buy and wear now reflect a part of where and who I am right now, but what I wear is much less conflicting or confused. So maybe it's in line with where I think I want to be at the moment--lol. Thinking about this just made it a lot more complicated than it probably is.

Anyway,

Superfuture and this whole fashion on the internets thing is getting to me tho, provoking me to refine and experiment a bit and thru my piqued interest the stuff i'm actively attempting to learn is teaching me how to critically/proactively look at clothes/shapes/colors/textures/etc.

Edit: :/ sorry for it being long...stream of thoughts from a cluttered mind.

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I'm not a loud or attention-seeking guy and I think that's reflected in the fairly conservative way I dress - plain or subtle patterns, deeper colours, very minimal or no branding, and classic designs (as I try not to buy anything I couldn't see myself wearing in a year's time).

I guess I'm attracted to Paul Smith, Varvatos, RRL and similiar brands for this reason. I think they also all have a masculinity to them which appeals to me, plus I like to dress my age and I think they suit that (although as I look a few years younger than I am, sometimes that balance gets thrown off a bit - I occasionally dress and then might change something as it looks a little 'old man' on me).

Music was a stronger influence on my dress sense in the past, but as I listen to a bunch of different stuff, I really couldn't adopt a single type of look.

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gloves

thanks for starting this thread.

i guess my personal faves have evolved over the years, from some the picking the slightly avant garde and quirky pieces to margielas these days.

at the end of the day, that piece of clothing must fit my body, not tight, but just nice fit, being loose makes me look sloppy and i dont like that really.

and then there is color, my wardrobe consists 90% of black, grey, white, navys. i dont think you can easily find a piece of yellow or orange garment in there, ok, there is dark purple :)

also, since i am no waif so there are some designers i dont fit into.

like gloves, i like carol christian poell but not everything he does. i own this tailored jacket from the early 2000 or 2001 and it still look so beautiful although i have not once wore it but every now and then i will just bring it out and admire. there is also a ccp irisdescent enamel dress shoe that i really like, the worksmanship is cool although i am not sure how long will it actually last, if i were to actually wear it, but i love it nonetheless.

on the other hand, a crochet knitted top i once saw from ccp is something i will not wear though :) as i find it bordering on being feminine, neither will i wear some of his accessories, like the big moustache brush necklace.

what i always like about margiela is the inspiration it provides me, as if there is a story behind it, this is especially true of the artisanal pieces. i really like the idea and i think margiela clothes can be somewhat thought provoking.

other than the above, some other brands that i wear mostly are veronique branquinho, ann demeulemeester, some pradas, wim neel and apc.

if i am in a funky mood, then very occasionally, viktor and rolf and hussein chalayan.

what i wont wear though, are brands that have logos on them, or shout at you to notice it the very instant you saw it. they just make me feel uncomfortable, or clothes that cling to the body.

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My style has evolved over the years. Last night a friend of mine asked me what is my style and I replied "My style is MY style."

I try to wear stuff that is comfortable and easy to match. I try to stay away from items with logos and too much print. Once in awhile I would wear something with a print on if I'm in a hyper mode. But most of the time I just stick with black, gray and white.

I know it kinda sucks but I don't have friends who share the same interests I have in fashion. Most of the people I know follow trends dictated by the media. I'm glad that I have discovered this website where I can share my views in fashion and other subjects.

By the way...thanks for this amazing thread gloves...

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If I had to wrap up the chaotic, frustruating manner in which my brain puts clothes on my body in a tidy paragraph, I guess I'd describe my personal style as the ever-fluctuating point of friction between what I find most aesthetically pleasing and what I can get away with wearing so that I'm perceived as a relatively normally-functioning member of society. If I had it my way, I'd probaby dress myself like a knight or someone from Tron or something, but alas I think I'd get made fun of even more than I already do for my clothes. So, for now, I'm kind of stuck at a Pete Doherty-meets-tighter-pants stage, but I guess direction wise I'm confused, because my gut tells me I just want to wear a suit everyday, because I think that's what everyone looks good in, it's acceptable to wear, and it's fairly comfy, but my brain (and my wallet), tell me it's impossible, and also, since I'm only 18, it really doesn't leave too much for the rest of my life. So actually: any suggestions? Who wants to dress me?

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It's definitely interesting to read the thoughts or philosophy behind some of your styles. I'd never go so far as to get into the designer's head and let it influence my choice when buying but that's just me, seriously respect to you guys who think that way.

So I don't usually shop according to a label (like, I really detest the CdG Guerilla stuff though the gowns and other ladies' stuff I've seen rock) but whatever I feel is quality and has details that catch my eye. And I tend to look at clothing in single pieces, ie. I hardly think about what I have and how they can go together in an ensemble, so I figure out what goes with what in hindsight. Singapore is too hot and humid that usually a top and bottom suffices.

Fitted (because I'm small-sized and look even smaller in anything I get lost in), simple and plain with details that catch my eye. Colors are usually muted too. And in the past, I used to be way more fascinated with jeans than with tops (probably still is), so I have a whole bunch of cheap and plain tshirts that I don't think twice about buying. I felt that a plain top doesn't detract from the jeans which were my centerpiece.

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I've noticed that I take whatever jumps out at me from different styles. I've always had an affinity for punk-style clothing but I always mix it up. I like certain trends such as prep, nu-rave, mod, homeless chic and I buy whatever pieces 'jump' at me. I don't feel like I have a consistent style, I seriously dress according to my mood. One day I might wake up feeling really girly and feminine and I might wear a nice white floaty dress, but I'lll probably add a chain necklace or some edgy detail to offset the prettiness of it. Or I might feel nu-ravey but instead of going with a neon pink top and electric blue pants I might add something grey to balance the colors.

When someone asks me to describe my style i'm usually at a loss for words... it's pretty much all over the place. I have fun with it.

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So much goes into it for me...

I've always been really interested with concepts of self image. Way back in highschool I had a ton of very different groups of friends. Some sorta preppy, some nerdy, some goth/metal... and I always found myself dressing differently depending on who I was hanging out with. When I went to work I always wore a shirt and tie. I just thought it was fantastic how I could stay the same person in every scenario, but depending on what I wore, people would respond to me in completely different ways.

Later, when I lived between Northeastern PA and NYC I found myself dressing in sleeker darker clothing aswell as throwing on more 'flashy' labels. I found that when i wore 'expensive' looking clothing people were much quicker to accept me in the area. That and nothing drives me more nuts than when people try to 'talk down' to me and I found when I elevated my style, the people I was around showed me much more respect.

Moving to Western PA (Pittsburgh) provided some culture shock. They like to think of themselves as more of a midwestern town. If you're wearing hihg-end denim people automatically assumed you were gay (which I'm not) and in the midwest they're much less likely to accept homosexuals. Also I was living in the ghetto and in the interest of minimizing the number of times I get mugged... the last thing I wanted was to look like I had money. I started taking back stitching off jeans, went with beat up shoes and boots, plain ts, more classic cut jeans (my contest sammies).

Since then I've started to try and find a happy medium between two very different styles. Combining blue collar ideals (quality) with white collar/upper crust aesthetic (design/fit) to create a unique Thorns style amalgamation.

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there are a bunch, such as the ones you mentioned as well as dsquared, gucci, versace, iceberg, marc jacobs, LV, prada and cavalli. these designers do make some beautifully constructed garments but also have pieces with logos all over them.

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