KMW 1950 AWA vs. PBJ AI-001 vs. Oni Shoai

[lowrider]

These are all in the same price range. Anyone have first hand experience between these 3? How do they compare in terms of:

Colour

Quality of indigo

Quality of dying process

Quality of denim

Attention to detail

Slubbiness

Cut

Trying to decide on a pair. Much mahalo for your feedback!

Cheers!

[poly800rock]

oni and kmw seem almost identical as far as denim and dye job goes. but the oni's are obviously slubbier. Seeing that the KMW and the Oni's came out at almost the same exact time, and reading the processes of each, I'd almost even say that they were dyed by the same people. Only weaving and fit differ. Could be very wrong though. PBJ and Oni are both slubby. I haven't seen a pair of PBJ ai's in a long time, but remember them being lighter than the oni's and def not as streaky.

if you're looking for something completely over the top with details, try finding the samurai AI's.

[ayn]

they all suck... lol...

[lowrider]

Thanks guys! I've been reading a lot about the Shoai and AI-001 and even the comparison thread but I couldn't find one that compared them to the KMW.

Basically I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on the KMWs but wanted to know how it stacked up to the 2 top hank dyed jeans.

For me it seems like the KMW will be the best fit based upon the pics I could find and the fact that they're a lower rise and come in a 32" inseam (since they're sanforized I won't need to hem them).

But blowing $600 still warrants a bit of informational gathering and research.

Poly - what sammys are you talking about? Are they still available?

[ayn]

we saw a pair of those sammy's on yahoo jp auction or something a while back...

[viv1984viv]

I think it was poly who saw some on yahoo auctions in his size and was debating if he should get em or not while sitting in his oni shoais.....

This is a vague memory but I recall that the same indigo god in japan dyed both the onis and KMW's - I could well be wrong but it rings a bell. I expect all jeans have verying qualitys, I expect the fabric is slubbiest on the onis, the KMW's look super flamming, ( like the nudies flame denim - and eternal 868s which should arrive tomorrow, you will see pics if they do. ). I can imagine a slight variation between irregularities in weave, colour and dying. E.g. one could be a smoother denim but more striated and "pretty" the other could have an even hue but a wonderfully slubby texture and appearance.

The sammies are ludicrous, jeans of kings, mad material and gold buttons!

Y'know if you just want a mad natural dyed jean check out the Sugarcane satokibis, they're much cheaper and the fabric is pretty unique albeit thinner, and not slubby but woven tight and with amazing striation.

I havent heard any whispers of the SelfedgeXSugarcane slim hank dyed jeans for a while.

Whatever you get, post pics!

[PG2G]

I think the sizes are very limited on the Oni shoai right now, so it might not even be an option. BiG has what, 1 size left?

Either way, I think they are pretty close.

The Onis are the heaviest denim at 19 oz, both the PBJ and KMW are 17 oz (according to the PBJ website and context). All three are hand dyed in Tokushima. The name of the dude that does the AI-001 is Awashoai, shoai... probably not a coincidence. I'd bet its the same dude who does the Oni's. Chances are, the same "legend" did the KMW also. How many legends are there??

If I were to choose between the three, I'd go with KMW because of the inseam, the fit, and the fact that there is no sizing guesswork.

[lowrider]

I think it was poly who saw some on yahoo auctions in his size and was debating if he should get em or not while sitting in his oni shoais.....

This is a vague memory but I recall that the same indigo god in japan dyed both the onis and KMW's - I could well be wrong but it rings a bell. I expect all jeans have verying qualitys, I expect the fabric is slubbiest on the onis, the KMW's look super flamming, ( like the nudies flame denim - and eternal 868s which should arrive tomorrow, you will see pics if they do. ). I can imagine a slight variation between irregularities in weave, colour and dying. E.g. one could be a smoother denim but more striated and "pretty" the other could have an even hue but a wonderfully slubby texture and appearance.

The sammies are ludicrous, jeans of kings, mad material and gold buttons!

Y'know if you just want a mad natural dyed jean check out the Sugarcane satokibis, they're much cheaper and the fabric is pretty unique albeit thinner, and not slubby but woven tight and with amazing striation.

I havent heard any whispers of the SelfedgeXSugarcane slim hank dyed jeans for a while.

Whatever you get, post pics!

Thanks Viv. I just found the rakuten with pics of the Sammy AIs and I'm not a fan of the gold buttons and they look like a high rise jean to me (the site didn't have rise measurements). That and (more importantly) I probably won't find a pair anytime soon!

I already have the Sugar Cane x Begin jeans that are pretty slubby (I think) but wanted something more "pure" in terms natural indigo hank dye and a lower rise, more modern and more slim cut.

Thanks for helping me make up my mind. Now I just have to find the nerve to pull out my Amex and drop $600 on a pair of jeans...

Cheers all!

[PG2G]

Gotta slip the PBJ AI-001 pic in

Doesn't really show the slub or anything well though

I'm debating picking up the AWAs, but I'm thinking a premium non-slub denim (i.e. 45rpm or MIJ red ear) may be a better idea for variety.

[lowrider]

I think the sizes are very limited on the Oni shoai right now, so it might not even be an option. BiG has what, 1 size left?

Either way, I think they are pretty close.

The Onis are the heaviest denim at 19 oz, both the PBJ and KMW are 17 oz (according to the PBJ website and context). All three are hand dyed in Tokushima. The name of the dude that does the AI-001 is Awashoai, shoai... probably not a coincidence. I'd bet its the same dude who does the Oni's. Chances are, the same "legend" did the KMW also. How many legends are there??

If I were to choose between the three, I'd go with KMW because of the inseam, the fit, and the fact that there is no sizing guesswork.

Thanks PG2G. Awashoai huh? So Oni took the latter half and KMW took the first half (AWA)?

I'm leaning towards the KMW as well. =)

[PG2G]

Thanks PG2G. Awashoai huh? So Oni took the latter half and KMW took the first half (AWA)?

I'm leaning towards the KMW as well. =)

Eek, i just honed in on the shaoi part, didn't even notice the Awa. So yeah, 90% likely they are all done by the same dude

[lowrider]

Gotta slip the PBJ AI-001 pic in

Doesn't really show the slub or anything well though

I'm debating picking up the AWAs, but I'm thinking a premium non-slub denim (i.e. 45rpm or MIJ red ear) may be a better idea for variety.

Looks good!! Uh oh... You're not thinking of the 29x32 AWAs are you?

[PG2G]

Looks good!! Uh oh... You're not thinking of the 29x32 AWAs are you?

Nah, I'd be looking for 33x34 or 32x34. Haven't looked at their stock. BTW, I think context has 10% off for sufu members, so you can save a pretty good amount.

[lowrider]

Nah, I'd be looking for 33x34 or 32x34. Haven't looked at their stock. BTW, I think context has 10% off for sufu members, so you can save a pretty good amount.

They have both the 32x34 and 33x34 in stock. I just pulled the trigger and got the 29x32s using the SuFu coupon.

Thanks!!

[lowrider]

All three are hand dyed in Tokushima. The name of the dude that does the AI-001 is Awashoai, shoai... probably not a coincidence. I'd bet its the same dude who does the Oni's. Chances are, the same "legend" did the KMW also. How many legends are there??

Now that I think about it, the PBJ AI-001 and Oni Shoai were both unsanforized right?

The KMW AWA is sanforized - I wonder if this will affect how it looks compared to the Shoai - assuming it went through the same dyeing process.

[jaspar]

^Lowrider, will you post pics when you have them, please!? Thanks

[lowrider]

^Lowrider, will you post pics when you have them, please!? Thanks

Will do! Should be here by Thursday.

[tkarwin]

lowrider,

What is your waist size. I am a 30, but I am thinking about going with the 29 in the 1950 AWA, cause it measures 29.5, but doesn't stretch as much.

[Young King]

Thanks guys! I've been reading a lot about the Shoai and AI-001 and even the comparison thread but I couldn't find one that compared them to the KMW.

Basically I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on the KMWs but wanted to know how it stacked up to the 2 top hank dyed jeans.

For me it seems like the KMW will be the best fit based upon the pics I could find and the fact that they're a lower rise and come in a 32" inseam (since they're sanforized I won't need to hem them).

But blowing $600 still warrants a bit of informational gathering and research. PM me.

Poly - what sammys are you talking about? Are they still available?

I have a pair of the AL-001, would anyone like to buy? Taking offers?? SZ36.

[lowrider]

lowrider,

What is your waist size. I am a 30, but I am thinking about going with the 29 in the 1950 AWA, cause it measures 29.5, but doesn't stretch as much.

2" down from my belly button (where these should sit) my waist is 30".

I say go for it! And don't forget to use the SuFu discount code.

[lowrider]

I have a pair of the AL-001, would anyone like to buy? Taking offers?? SZ36.

No thanks. I just bougth the KMW AWA. I'm also a 30" waist. Good luck selling them!

[tkarwin]

I think I will wait to see the pics of yours. I tend to wear my pants a little lower than you I think. They may start 2" below my bellybutton, but as they stretch they sit lower.

[lowrider]

I think I will wait to see the pics of yours. I tend to wear my pants a little lower than you I think. They may start 2" below my bellybutton, but as they stretch they sit lower.

Well, my Somet Slims have a 8.25" front rise and they sit around 4" - 5" lower than my belly button (measured from the base of my belly button). These are a measured 32" and I can fit 2 stacked fingers (2") between my abs and the jean. I have to wear a belt.

That's my long winded way of telling you that I'm 30" whether it's 2" or 5" below my waist. It's probably because I have a small bottom.

The KMW AWAs have a 10" front rise so they should sit a bit higher unless you like the butt sag.

Hope this helps!

[tkarwin]

pics please! I read in the SExIH thread you got your AWAs. Let's see em!

[lowrider]

pics please! I read in the SExIH thread you got your AWAs. Let's see em!

Don't have fitment pics yet but here are detailed pics of the denim and details. In terms of fit, it looks identical to the model on the Context site.

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=25292

[parachutes]

The Onis are the heaviest denim at 19 oz, both the PBJ and KMW are 17 oz (according to the PBJ website and context). All three are hand dyed in Tokushima. The name of the dude that does the AI-001 is Awashoai, shoai... probably not a coincidence. I'd bet its the same dude who does the Oni's. Chances are, the same "legend" did the KMW also. How many legends are there??

Awashoai is actually a name of the dying method originated in Awa city in Tokushima prefecture. According to the discriptions on the Oni Shoai/Ai-001, the person who dyed the jeans are supposedly a legend but it doesn't mention the actual name of the person.

Awa = name of city in Tokushima prefecture

Shoai = natural indigo

[PG2G]

The purebluejapan website made it sound like a person

"17oz Shoai Dyed Selvedge Regular Straight

Made the Original Selvedge Denim with special ordered very heavy thread that hand-dyed by Awashoai(阿波正藍) from Tokushima. Choose to stitch with thick orange and yellow threads to make it stand out on the elegant BLUE color of Shoai Dye."

I guess the English is a bit confusing. It sounds like its referring to a person, but I guess it could also refer to a technique.

[parachutes]

yeah i know where you are coming from. the translation isnt far off, but the phrase is one that changes its meaning a bit on case-by-case. im sure Awashoai is a technique and not a specific person. thousands of clothing and textile come up when i search the word on the net.

[PG2G]

True, it was a bit of a reach

[lowrider]

So if it's not his name, could it still be the same dood? The Shoai and the AWA look very similar...