Just received my Howies New OSD Jeans

[Biggow]

And I have to say that I am not particularly impressed.

They are really quite baggy around the legs, and that's come from a man who likes loose fitting jeans. They also seem quite thin and soft for dry selvage jeans (compared to LVC, Edwin and Nudie that I also own), despite them being listed as 13oz. They also don't have selvage on the inseam, only on the outseam, which I understood was a feature of Howies jeans.

Interestingly though, they enclosed a fact sheet in the package that says 'These selvedge jeans are made the old way using natural indigo dyes. That means it will take up to 10 washes before the dye stops coming off'. And I have to say that I have never known dye come off a pair of dry jeans so easily. Just from getting them out of the package yesterday and trying them on my hands were completely blue! I presume then that these are not dyed with chemical indigo.

If I can figure out how it's done I'll post some pictures later today.

[ringring]

These selvedge jeans are made the old way using natural indigo dyes. That means it will take up to 10 washes before the dye stops coming off'.

How strange. Looking at their website, you'd think that only the Truthster jeans were made with natural indigo. (unless you were sent a Truthster by mistake).

Regarding the selvage inseam, I don't remember any mention of this being a feature of Howies or any other brand of jeans. The feature of the OSDs was having a fell inseam. A triple chainstitched fell.

Regarding indigo coming off - I think that depends on each quality of denim. It's not an indication whether natural indigo has been used or not. Some just shed more than others.

What are the back pockets like? Do they have that 'coastline' embroidery on the right back pocket?

[Biggow]

It is strange, but I'm pretty sure they are the New OSD's not the Truthsters. I was certainly charged for OSD's anyway. Maybe the main difference with the Truthsters is actually the use of Ringspun denim, not natural indigo, as Howies biggest selling point on all their clothes is the use of natural materials.

I obviously misunderstood about the inseam, and I'm sure triple chainstitched fell is what they have.

Yes, the coastline embroidery is on the right back pocket, but only the right not on the left.

[ringring]

Maybe the main difference with the Truthsters is actually the use of Ringspun denim, not natural indigo

I think if Howies used natural indigo on all their jeans they would point that out (and not single out the Truthster for auction). It's the use of natural indigo (and hand rope dyeing process) that increases the cost. So when they say their Truthsters cost about 10 times as much to make , I believe that refers to natural indigo rather than Ringspun denim.

My guess is all their jeans will be in ringspun denim.

Maybe they just sent you the wrong info sheet.

[Biggow]

Ok, I've just spoken to Howies and they've made things a little clearer - but not much.

The main difference seems to be in the denim itself, and apparently the Truthsters are much more coarse and more uneven in the weave, and are completely 'handmade'. Quite what that all means I don't know as I'm no denim expert, maybe you can shed some more light on that ringring?

I also asked about the dye. According to the guy I spoke to the Truthsters are 'more' natural than the OSD's and are completely hand dyed. The upshot, according to the guy I spoke to, is that the Truthsters really are a class above the OSD's. He actually told me that the Truthsters cost Howies more than $150 to produce.

[ringring]

Truthsters are much more coarse and more uneven in the weave, and are completely 'handmade'. Quite what that all means I don't know as I'm no denim expert, maybe you can shed some more light on that ringring?

Without seeing a pair it's hard to comment. I guess the yarn is real thick slubby stuff like the denims used by Sugarcane, Warehouse, Indigo Farm etc. However, I'm dubious if the jeans are completely 'handmade'. The spinning, weaving, sewing and buttonholing are likely to be done by machine. The accessories will presumably be made by machine. The dyeing and maybe the cutting is done by hand.

'more' natural is also a bit vague. Either the OSDs use natural indigo or not....I'm curious to know how one natural indigo dye can be 'more natural' than another...unless they are picking wild indigo plants for one style and using cultivated plants for another.

[Biggow]

Thanks ringring. I'll try and post some pics of my OSD's this evening.

Edited by Biggow on May 19, 2005 at 07:35 AM

[Biggow]

Ok, as promised, here are the photos of the New OSD's. I'd be interested to hear peoples opinions on them.......

[ringring]

Thanks for the pics.

I think the waistband and to a certain extent the back pocket embroidery is a case of "you'll either love it or hate it". But other than that they look great.

I like the close-width double stitching round the pockets/fly etc, the skewed belt loops, fell inseam, chainstitch hem. Nice. There's so many Levis 501 replicas out there that it's good to see something a little different.

[Biggow]

Thanks for the comments ringring. I have to say that they are kind of growing on me since I first got them.

What do you think of the denim itself? Is it ringspu, from what you can see?

[ringring]

Sleep easy, 'tis good ol' double ring denim

[darknworn]

Certainly looks nice. Do they fit significantly looser than the standard 501 shrink-to-fit? Also, how much will they shrink? 2-3%? I am thinking about buying a pair. How much for shipping to the US? I found a UK website still stocking old OSD jeans, what're the differences? I prefer a slimmer fit, i.e. Helmut Lang classic. Thanks.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/?Manu=Howies

"God is Dead" - Neitzsche

"Neitzsche is Dead" - God

[Biggow]

I'd say they do fit quite a bit looser than the 1955 Levis LVC's that I have, but I don't have any modern 501 shrink-to-fits to compare them too.

According to Howies they shrink very little, probably 2-3% is about right, which I'm told is the main difference between the new and old OSD's, as apparently the old OSD's shrink quite a bit.

[peteyross]

I've got a pair of OSD Jeans (not the New OSD). They're straighter and a little wider than your typical 501 replica. The rise is a little lower also. My OSD's do not feel cheap at all. They feel pretty well made. Overall I'd say the fit is closer to the APC English cut with a higher rise. They are also fairly narrow in the hips. Overall I think they're great jeans. If you like slim legged jeans (ie helmut lang), you may want to look elsewhere.

[JamesDaMan]

Well i Have the Truthsters i will try and get some pics mmm HAND MADE JEANS MUAHAHA lol

[shinobi2000]

I am still waiting for my pair to come. I ordered mine weeks (months?) ago and they took forever to ship, then they got lost. Last I heard, they are re-sending them to me. Lord knows when I'll finally see them.

[JamesDaMan]

hehe nar its not that Howies are humming and arrring what to do with them about price as its a bid , i love howies to bits but there to damn lazzy for there own good the only reason we got some is cos were i work we are howies mad

[witts]

where did you get them from?

[JamesDaMan]

Where i work m8 at Ten-Eighty in Norwich England i will get some piccys sorted as soon as i can to show u all what a Hand Made pair of jeans look like hehe

[witts]

do they ship through out the UK or am i gona have to come visit the home of colmans mustard?

[JamesDaMan]

http://www.ten-eighty.co.uk/ We are Also the Uk's Largest Oakley dealer if we dont have it U cant get it we are currently stocking 160k worth of shades Alone

[witts]

so you sit on a white leather chair in these? and you chair is now blue??

[JamesDaMan]

Nop not with the Truthsters u do with the Woodfines and the OSD's but for some reason these dont bleed at all prolly somthing to do with the way there made check this out http://www.howies.co.uk/truthster.php

[magicclean]

erm sorry to bother you guys but how do you see that its ring spun? is it the uneven slubby effect of the weave? can the double ring spun be found on non selvedge denim?

Those Howies look good, they seem to be a more baggy fit than 501s, which i think is suitable for their style as they seem to cater towards bmx,mountainbiking,skateboarding. From the site give(thanks JamesDaMan), they are a Uk based company right?

[M4TM]

wow.... thats some nice looking denim! i like it. how much did they set you back?

No Shirt. No Shoes. No Dice.

Learn it. Know it. Live it.

[Biggow]

I got them from here....

http://www.howies.co.uk/product2.php?cat=jeans&gen=m

And they are the New OSD Jeans, which are £90, that's about $165.

[JamesDaMan]

Hey erm yeah there Uk based Very cool company everything is organic and Made the way it should b, well they aint cheep i mean u have to bid for them they are not available yet But im well VERY lucky hehe ok well i managed to find out that it cost Howies Around £150 Just to make these jeans lol if u compair that to somthing like a £100 nike trainer which costs them about a £1 to make think what they should b! if u bid around the £500 ur more then likely to get a pair(depending on size) i have had to pay around the £240 mark Which is still very steep, i will get some pics soon as guys

[script]

they look nice... i like them simple esp. the back pockets.

if i may jump to another subject for awhile...

i am quite dissapointed with my canes i got weeks ago[model 1945B]

it's almost an exact copy of Lee cowboy right down to the rivets except

the half-stiched at the back pockets and the double blue line selvedge

and the cut is slightly slimmer.

saw it on a jp site and the pix wasn't huge enough to look at details

and got a friend to get it...sigh....should have done my homework more

and ask the experts here...

forgive me of not knowing denim as much...maybe i'll post some pix

between Lee and Cane.

write your own script

[poly800rock]

Isnt that the point of sugar canes? Like the 1947 model is a replica of the 1947 Levis and the 1945 are a replica of the Lee's jeans....What seems the be your major delema?

[script]

ah now i know...like i said earlier i should have done my homework!?

no dilemma here just dissapointed to have two pairs of jeans almost exact dude.

yours?

Edited by script on Jun 17, 2005 at 09:18 AM