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Personally don't get why people so mad about zara when hedi can get away with appropriating vintage varsity jackets and charging thousands, especially when this collection first came out everyone was screaming how high street it looked. It's just shit coming full circle. The circle of life.GJi6hww.jpg?1

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I think a lot of the "outrage" with the Zara thing was just how bold and aggressive they've gotten with blatant copies of designers. Look at the women's ad campaigns, they copy SLP and Céline look for look.

 

As crazy as it is, it's just a sign of the times. "Designer fashion" is ridiculously popular right now. Middle school kids hash tagging #givenchy and #balenciaga in their selfies it's wild. When things are this embedded in pop culture it's just expected that there will be dozens of copies.

 

Hedi can charge whatever he wants because every semi relevant celebrity / performer is wearing his $2190 vintage varsity jacket and $6790 leather pants. So much of this fw collection was sold before it even hit the shelves it's ridiculous. He isn't getting away with anything people are gladly paying it.

Edited by jdemotion
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I don´t mean to interrupt the Zara knock-off conversation, I only got  a quick question regarding SLP sunglasses: are the made by Luxottica (like a lot of the other designer labels) or do they have their own production site?

Thanks in advance! :)

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It just annoys me when people wear knockoffs and think they're just as good as the same thing or think you can't tell the difference.

Are you saying people see SLP aren't nice vintage finds but shitty repros of them?

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he's saying SLP is no different from zara. It's just ironic that one makes a name for itself copying high fashion and the high fashion brand is copying cheap vintage thrift finds that you can easily obtain at any good flea market for under double digits and reproducing them. (that varsity was originally worn by the drums and found at melrose trading post for $5), Hedi copied the exact dimensions and style - see here - shot in 2010 http://www.hedislimane.com/rockdiary/index.php?e=viewSpe&rockdiarySpeHomeNo=32

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.. hedi's never hidden the fact he takes his inspiration from vintage items & thrift stores, it's pretty obvious and his recent move to LA has encouraged that even more.. but it isn't anything new (he did it at DH) nor exclusive to Slimane, many designers take cues from vintage period items (just look at the MA-1 or Varsity jacket craze) imo it's perfectly acceptable to take inspiration from a 40/50 year old iconic item, but a complete different thing to jack a designers collection/look presented only months ago.. but FWIW i do see the irony in dropping several K on essentially a shrunken flea find.. but I do like Slimane's lux interpretations at the same time.. i just wish the YSL name (and price tag) didn't have to be attached to it..

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.. hedi's never hidden the fact he takes his inspiration from vintage items & thrift stores, it's pretty obvious and his recent move to LA has encouraged that even more.. but it isn't anything new (he did it at DH) nor exclusive to Slimane, many designers take cues from vintage period items (just look at the MA-1 or Varsity jacket craze) imo it's perfectly acceptable to take inspiration from a 40/50 year old iconic item, but a complete different thing to jack a designers collection/look presented only months ago.. but FWIW i do see the irony in dropping several K on essentially a shrunken flea find.. but I do like Slimane's lux interpretations at the same time.. i just wish the YSL name (and price tag) didn't have to be attached to it..

 

I completely agree. Don't get me wrong, 2k is tough to swallow on a varsity that I wouldn't glance at for $5 at a flea market, but there is something to his reproduction that makes it attractive, beyond the name and marketing. The fabrics that he's going after are pretty unique. I bought one of the first striped t shirts that came out and it looks identical to something you see at topman or a thrift shop and while overpriced and falling apart now, it still remains my favorite shirt, because of the way the fabric moves and feels, and more importantly the way it looks with the rest of the line. The same can be said for the jeans. They are at glance, besides the back pockets, nearly identical to the black petit standard APC's.. Even the cut and denim looks the same, but the denim is stiffer and has a very attractive coated blue sheen to it that has made it my favorite pair of jeans. 

Again, it's an unnecessary expense, especially for looking quite plain and subtle, but I like that and appreciate the small subtleties that make something plain come far ahead of what everyone else is / has done. 

Edited by exterminatingphantom
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interesting that this discussion has taken to talking about vintage. I have been an ardent fan of Slimane's for about 6/7 years now but I also have a strong background in vintage, having been an assistant manager/buyer at a very upscale vintage boutique while in high school. despite Hedi "being influenced" by vintage, his latest designs at Saint Laurent are more perfected versions of vintage clothing than anything else.

 

take any "vintage inspired" Saint Laurent piece (perfecto, varsity, ss13 50s tuxedos, fw13 moto boots, etc) and try to find a vintage item exactly like it. You can get close, but Hedi's versions are perfected versions of the vintage pieces; as he updates the fit, and changes the design ever so slightly to clean the piece up in a way that ive only noticed in his designs. for example, the fw13 varsity has an unparalleled fit like a tailored item, but it feels and looks like a crisp and more minimal jacket than any vintage varsity I have ever seen (yes, even deadstock ones). the only thing I can really compare this to is how when you look at some modernist architecture (ex. mies van der rohe's seagram building) you feel a sense of perfection to it, like this is what the architect designed and the structure has just enough to it that it doesnt need any more decoration and any less would be impossible. knowing hedi's interest in modern art and architecture/design theory, i can't help but believe that they influence his fashion work in some way. i wrote a paper on hedi's new saint laurent store designs last semester for a class that touches on this topic more and how his store and fashion designs are influenced by modernism, in case anyone wants to read more....

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interesting that this discussion has taken to talking about vintage. I have been an ardent fan of Slimane's for about 6/7 years now but I also have a strong background in vintage, having been an assistant manager/buyer at a very upscale vintage boutique while in high school. despite Hedi "being influenced" by vintage, his latest designs at Saint Laurent are more perfected versions of vintage clothing than anything else.

 

take any "vintage inspired" Saint Laurent piece (perfecto, varsity, ss13 50s tuxedos, fw13 moto boots, etc) and try to find a vintage item exactly like it. You can get close, but Hedi's versions are perfected versions of the vintage pieces; as he updates the fit, and changes the design ever so slightly to clean the piece up in a way that ive only noticed in his designs. for example, the fw13 varsity has an unparalleled fit like a tailored item, but it feels and looks like a crisp and more minimal jacket than any vintage varsity I have ever seen (yes, even deadstock ones). the only thing I can really compare this to is how when you look at some modernist architecture (ex. mies van der rohe's seagram building) you feel a sense of perfection to it, like this is what the architect designed and the structure has just enough to it that it doesnt need any more decoration and any less would be impossible. knowing hedi's interest in modern art and architecture/design theory, i can't help but believe that they influence his fashion work in some way. i wrote a paper on hedi's new saint laurent store designs last semester for a class that touches on this topic more and how his store and fashion designs are influenced by modernism, in case anyone wants to read more....

 

 

You're absolutely correct that Hedi is using architecture as an inspiration.. if you haven't read it yet, this is a fascinating article that will shut the haters up regarding Hedi's move to LA, what he's done with YSL, etc.

 

http://www.vogue.com/magazine/article/hedi-slimane-thrills-and-scandalizes-as-creative-director-of-saint-laurent/#1

 

The author discusses Hedi's lifestyle, his new home, influences in music and architecture, art and the opera and what inspires him. 

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i need your opinion guys! i just bought the FW 13 motorcycle jacket in 44 and i can't decide if i should size down to 42.

 

the 44 fits me spot on but there's not much tightness i was expecting from a leather jacket. it feels pretty roomy when unzipped, slightly snug when i bend my arms. unfortunately, i am not able to try the 42 since it's only available in the paris store.

 

measurements for both sizes:

 

shoulder: 39cm (42) / 41cm (44)

back length: 56cm (42 & 44)

chest: 44cm (42) / 46cm (44)

waist: 83cm (42) / 85cm (44)

 

basically a -2cm difference in shoulder, chest and waist for 42. length wise remains the same.

 

i am approximately 175 cm / 58 kg and here are fit pics:

 

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b612/peaklapel/SL_1.jpg

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b612/peaklapel/SL_2.jpg

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b612/peaklapel/SL_3.jpg

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b612/peaklapel/SL_4.jpg

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b612/peaklapel/SL_5.jpg

 

a staff in the paris boutique who is approximately 182 cm / 58 kg and here are fit pics:

 

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b612/peaklapel/SL_6.jpg

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b612/peaklapel/SL_7.jpg

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b612/peaklapel/SL_8.jpg

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b612/peaklapel/SL_9.jpg

 

runway fit pics:

 

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b612/peaklapel/SL_10.jpg

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b612/peaklapel/SL_11.jpeg

 

so what do you think guys? should i stick to the 44 or size down to a 42? right now i'm leaning towards 42 because i think it'll stretch in due time...

 

 

is yours the washed leather?

i saw that jacket in the womens sizes in the original leather (and what i thought it looked to be made of on the runway).

 

looking for it in a 44/46 in the soft leather.

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You're absolutely correct that Hedi is using architecture as an inspiration.. if you haven't read it yet, this is a fascinating article that will shut the haters up regarding Hedi's move to LA, what he's done with YSL, etc.

 

http://www.vogue.com/magazine/article/hedi-slimane-thrills-and-scandalizes-as-creative-director-of-saint-laurent/#1

 

The author discusses Hedi's lifestyle, his new home, influences in music and architecture, art and the opera and what inspires him. 

 

saw that article, such a source of info on him and all the details you mentioned. a must read for any slimane fan

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that will shut the haters up regarding Hedi's move to LA, what he's done with YSL, etc.

most of this is known, if you've read articles about him before. but either way you can justify things like that, but the result is his collections are still lacking.

"He suggests this is a case of critics’ reading his biography rather than looking at the clothes."

Edited by CASSAVA PIECE
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 The same can be said for the jeans. They are at glance, besides the back pockets, nearly identical to the black petit standard APC's.. Even the cut and denim looks the same, but the denim is stiffer and has a very attractive coated blue sheen to it that has made it my favorite pair of jeans. 

Again, it's an unnecessary expense, especially for looking quite plain and subtle, but I like that and appreciate the small subtleties that make something plain come far ahead of what everyone else is / has done. 

 

hedi admitted in the past that his [DH] raw denims were inspired by APC's new standards, which themselves are inspired from vintage 501 fit.. not many people realize this but APC has been around since 1987 and are with Agnes B, the french pioneers of minimalism & pop culture juxtapositions albeit in a non couture dimension... hedi definitely has his own identity/universe but i'm not really sure he's pushing boundaries these days and by the sound of that article above, he seems more interested in the chandeliers of his new atelier then the design of clothing itself (a bit like raf lost the plot if you ask me).. i'll still follow though, we'll see where it goes, but i'd say his best days are behind him..

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interesting that this discussion has taken to talking about vintage. I have been an ardent fan of Slimane's for about 6/7 years now but I also have a strong background in vintage, having been an assistant manager/buyer at a very upscale vintage boutique while in high school. despite Hedi "being influenced" by vintage, his latest designs at Saint Laurent are more perfected versions of vintage clothing than anything else.

 

take any "vintage inspired" Saint Laurent piece (perfecto, varsity, ss13 50s tuxedos, fw13 moto boots, etc) and try to find a vintage item exactly like it. You can get close, but Hedi's versions are perfected versions of the vintage pieces; as he updates the fit, and changes the design ever so slightly to clean the piece up in a way that ive only noticed in his designs. for example, the fw13 varsity has an unparalleled fit like a tailored item, but it feels and looks like a crisp and more minimal jacket than any vintage varsity I have ever seen (yes, even deadstock ones). the only thing I can really compare this to is how when you look at some modernist architecture (ex. mies van der rohe's seagram building) you feel a sense of perfection to it, like this is what the architect designed and the structure has just enough to it that it doesnt need any more decoration and any less would be impossible. knowing hedi's interest in modern art and architecture/design theory, i can't help but believe that they influence his fashion work in some way. i wrote a paper on hedi's new saint laurent store designs last semester for a class that touches on this topic more and how his store and fashion designs are influenced by modernism, in case anyone wants to read more....

May I see your paper?

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