Hedi Slimane/Saint Laurent/Dior Homme general discussion thread

[kieran]

Finally a boot that's pointed enough without being too pointed, and it comes with a huge heel. Hopefully there will be a 3cm or 4cm version too. They look amazing from the front though with the jeans cropped at that height.

 

Very nice collection overall, and will be commercially very successful I'm sure. Lots of coats and knits that I like, and all very wearable.

[Legate]

@Vampyrvargfesten

 

I think it's a lipstick pin. I really like the berets, will probably get one. 

 

[Tommy350]

I'm sure it's already been answered in this tread but...

Can anyone help me with measurements? And fit? In terms of the correlation with waist size. I have thicker legs so the slimmest for I can wear is the d01 17.5cm fit. And usually most of the runway denim are the d02 15.5cm. And I'm missing out on some great denim. So I was willing to size up and wear the waist bigger or have them tailored. So I wanted to know what the actual measurements differences were in correlation with waist size. I'm sure it's more dummy proof then I'm making it. But some help would be nice! I usually wear a 30-31 waist. Thank you!

[itzkoolkidkam]

Looking to pickup a pair of knee ripped denim. Do they come in 17.5cm D01? Should I size down from my raw size (31)?

Thanks.

[aymerikmd]

dude dont get the beret lol

[jdemotion]

Had an opportunity to see the aw15 collection firsthand and it's really really fucking solid. ss15 was built around the psych rock movement in LA, aw15 was influenced by the indie rock scene in Paris. Lot of emphasis on fit and proportion (skinnier, tighter, more cropped), and building around the permanent collection and new offerings within it.

 

I can't speak about pricing but will say I was pleasantly surprised - most of RTW has no increase and shoes have decreases on many different models. Only exception is anything with pins, truly WTF pricing.

 

Few notes:

 

The D02 has a new offering, in addition to the regular M/SK-LW there is a mid rise with an additional 2cm in the rise (M/SK-MW) that all the models were wearing in the show. Fabric (Y869I) remains the same. Fits were a true 15cm on the D02, very skinny.

 

A lot of the shirting is now offered in the viscose twill, slowly replacing the much more delicate and expensive silk. 

 

Runway boots were 85mm, worn by both the boys and girls. I didn't like them at first, but after seeing them on and with the "full look" they actually look amazing. Not that far off from his 65mm cuban heels at DH.

 

I was never a huge fan of ss15, I found it too hard to pull off without a very specific look and didn't really fall well with any of the other collections, but I'll be wearing a ton from this upcoming fall.

[kieran]

Sounds great, thanks for the information. Did you happen to see any boots with a similar shape in the toe to the runway models, but with a lower heel? I love the shape of the boots - pointed but not ridiculously so, and the leather looks amazing on the boots and belts (seems to have a kind of crinkly texture).

 

Jeans being a true 15 cm sounds very promising, though for me the hem size hasn't been the problem with jeans post AW13's raw skinny jeans, but rather the looser fit in the hips, thighs, knees and calf (waist and hem have actually been okay).

[jdemotion]

Yes, the same shape (called the French), is available in the runway 85mm and more commercial 45mm heel (compared to the Wyatt 40mm). Both sizes come in the same models with harness, straps, box leather and the crinkle texture. 

 

Re: jeans most of the samples were a 27-28, I normally wear a 27 in the D02 and tried on the runway model size 27 and they were tight everywhere. The runway pics are no joke these models are fucking prisoners of war skinny and if they're painted on them I'm sure you won't have a problem. The fabric stretches a ton - my first day in a new pair I can barely button but by the end of the month I need a belt... you should be fine just sizing down.

Edited February 5, 2015 by jdemotion

[kieran]

Thanks again. The boots sound great in 45mm and I can't wait to see the choice - a definite purchase for me in some variation. I've actually been waiting for a pointed boot, but not as pointed as the duckies / santiags, since the first season. I mean I love the Wyatt, but it's quite chunky so it will be great to have a sleeker alternative. I'd probably go with the plain calf leather when it comes to it as while I like the crinkled leather, the boxer leather would be more versatile.

 

I think I'll also be taking one of the belts which look really sleek too (albeit very plain). Again I imagine those will come in the basic calf leather as well as the crinkled leather.

 

Do you happen to know if they've done anything with the cropped jodhpur boots? The London 20 version, while nice, has been around for two seasons now so it would be nice if there was something new. 

 

Thanks.

[jdemotion]

No new animations on the London jodhpur boots, they've been selling well and still offered in the usual colors. Outside of the French boot, nothing really new or exciting for shoes... fake croc and snake for the Wyatt, dark brown suede (color cáfe) harness Wyatt, and a redone creeper (more rounded toe, softer crepe sole, really nice actually). They're slowly cutting down the London collection and building up the Hedi line (30mm), as people have complained that the 20mm sole feels too thin, especially on the ankle boots.

 

Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to really look at the belts, but I'm sure they're offered in more than just plain calf.

[Illithid Dude]

Any standout pieces that weren't super visible on the runway, or not on the runway at all?

[kieran]

Thanks again Jdemotion. Next season sounds great - really hope the online store or the London stores buy the French in the plain side-zip which is my favourite from the runway boots.

 

The dark brown suede is nice, kind of wish I'd bought the Wyatt Chelseas from AW13 now - they actually went to sale but I thought they were not versatile enough at the time, whereas now I see you can just wear them with pretty much everything that you would wear a black boot with, and they look great (even black belts). These are the blake 30 jodhpurs with the thicker sole, but I'd still be tempted to get the London 20 version if stores here buy the brown suede:

 

 

The Hedi 30 is an improvement on the London boots I feel. The cropped jodhpur is nice in the London 20, but the covered gore Chelseas etc don't look anything special.

 

On an unrelated note, I was looking through the Firstview pictures, and there's a couple of nice looking coats at the end of the show that were not part of the main looks (as if there wasn't enough nice jackets to choose from already!):

 

I like the look of this trench:

 

 

And also this single breasted coat with epaulettes first left of centre:

 

[jdemotion]

There was a ton of tailored outerwear... both single and double breasted iterations in a lot of fabrics but mostly cashmere. Unfortunately you probably won't see a lot of variety in stores as most were very pricey (3500 and up). My two favorites were the coats in look #25 and 53... 25 had a self belt in the back and the mink fur on 53 was incredible. The single breasted coats were very nice but soooo slim and narrow it was impossible to layer with anything. 

 

Standout pieces for me: Look 43 was my favorite both on and off the runway. Production of the leather jacket won't have the pins as it would have been insane money - but the non-pin version is almost a grand cheaper than the L01 and has a very slim and more cropped fit. No lapel snaps or epaulets, just a very clean design. Also look #11 - looks super plain in photos but the medium navy color on the blazer is really amazing against black and white.

 

It wasn't shown on the runway but there's a plaid zip trapper jacket very similar to the one in AW13 that I think will be very popular. There's a D02 corduroy that I really want for fall, but I was in the store in Paris and they had them for ss15? Maybe someone else can verify that lives near a boutique but either way those are a winner in my book for winter. 

 

"Hedi's jacket" will be offered in darker brown suedes which look killer. All of the knits (especially the striped versions) will be an instant success, nice and thick with a soft hand.

 

For footwear, I wasn't a huge fan of the creepers for aw14 but the new shape is super versatile and comfortable. Not a lot of changes in boots as I mentioned, just more classic colorways.

 

Didn't pay a lot of attention to sneakers but there's a perforated version of the SL/10 that caught my eye.

[Legate]

I'm thinking of buying a pair of SLP sneakers, last time I bought some was in aw13 and they fit a bit small so when I bought my boots I made sure to get one size bigger and they fit perfect. However I now see on the YSL website they recommend sizing down one. So I'm unsure whether I should just get the same size as my boots or if I should size down. Has anyone tried the sneakers recently? Do they fit large to size? 

[aymerikmd]

how much are worth dior 07 naviguate combat boots ? i have a pair in grain leather that are pretty beat but still good life left.
not really looking to sell atm, but just wanted to  have a price point

[unouomedude]

^ The retailers in rakuten are selling size 39-42 for $400+

[kwabenab]

FS: Saint Laurent f/w 2014 Classic Wyatt Chelsea Boots sz 41 in Black

Selling for $650 + shipping!!!

 

Bought during October 2014 and only Worn twice!

Edited March 11, 2015 by kwabenab

[Illithid Dude]

Part of the collection is up on the website. Surprisingly affordable, minus a few things. Full cashmere coat is "only" 3.5k. 

[Vampyrvargfesten]

Curious to see who will buy the "French 85" heels.. Even the 60mm version is pushing it.

New padded combats are kinda cool too

Mid rise jeans too, finally

[rafsemens]

ill buy a pair for my mistress 

[Illithid Dude]

Curious to see who will buy the "French 85" heels.. Even the 60mm version is pushing it.

New padded combats are kinda cool too

Mid rise jeans too, finally

 

I think I'll probably end up getting the 60mm ones. I remember thinking the wyatts looked crazy high on the runway, but in person the heel is pretty subdued. I expect the same for the 60mm heel. 

[kieran]

Apparently there will be 4.5 cm too which are the ones I plan to get. 6 cm is nice but a bit out of my comfort zone.

[cjbreed]

ok, so i was able to try on two pair of slp jeans recently and there was this black waxed pair in D02

 

http://www.luisaviaroma.com/index.aspx?#ItemSrv.ashx|SeasonId=58I&CollectionId=25Z&ItemId=85&VendorColorId=MTAwMQ2&SeasonMemoCode=actual&GenderMemoCode=men&Language=&CountryId=&SubLineMemoCode=clothing&CategoryId=40&ItemResponse=&MenuResponse=&SizeChart=false&ItemTag=true&NoContext=false

 

and this pair in D02

 

http://www.mrporter.com/en-us/mens/saint_laurent/slim-fit-15-5cm-hem-ripped-denim-jeans/516559?cm_mmc=LinkshareUS-_-J84DHJLQkR4-_-Custom-_-LinkBuilder&siteID=J84DHJLQkR4-qVuxa9lPJ3AoAh4sFXgMqw

 

both fit well. but they did not have the basic D02 raw black stretch denim jean. will it fit the same as these? meaning order the same size? may seem like a silly question but from what i have heard it will vary by season, so i'm referring to a new purchase made this season

[tsuji]

Long shot - but was wondering if anyone was interesting in trading down a size for my classic perfecto size 46 (calf only) - i need a 48 - can send pictures - thanks

[slann]

Got my SS15 felt featherd wide brim hat two days ago; I hope to have the time to do a review on my blog if I get enough wear from it in the next week

[Vampyrvargfesten]

Apparently there will be 4.5 cm too which are the ones I plan to get. 6 cm is nice but a bit out of my comfort zone.

 

i can confirm this.  the french 45 boot is in the pre-order book

 

one is a side zip and the other is the two-snap buckle (basically this one with the 45 heel http://www.ysl.com/us/shop-product/men/shoes-french-booties-french-85-snap-ankle-boot-in-black-cracked-shiny-leather_cod44838529qc.html#dept=shoes_men_&itemPage=2) 

[Illithid Dude]

i can confirm this.  the french 45 boot is in the pre-order book

 

one is a side zip and the other is the two-snap buckle (basically this one with the 45 heel http://www.ysl.com/us/shop-product/men/shoes-french-booties-french-85-snap-ankle-boot-in-black-cracked-shiny-leather_cod44838529qc.html#dept=shoes_men_&itemPage=2) 

 

Is that the only style in the 45mm? Do you know if there are any different styles of the 60mm french boot other than the one they have on the online store?

[kieran]

Is the side zip the plain side zip without any details? That's the one I'm hoping for (the one pictured below but in 4.5, and not lizard). Also do you know if it's the cracked shiny leather or the basic calf.

 

Thank you.

 

[gti]

 

catalogue scans 

[Eyealt]

What's the best way to try on D02s in a size 26 or 27? Every store I have been into seems to only stock 28 as the smallest waist. Should I call ahead, or hope for the best in store?

 

Thanks