Red Cloud & Co. jeans

[gregornz]

Rat - I see what you mean about the belt loops now. I read about this elsewhere on superefuture... So these jeans should get that nice belt loop fade over time.

Another interesting detail - if you feel the hidden back pocket rivets, there is something in there along with the rivet, prob extra denim, that makes a triangular shape about 1.5cm long. My 403s have already got a clear sheen in that shape.

About the denim, these ones in the photos are the 170z blended weft, right? That blended weft creates a broken pattern on the inside, if I'm not mistaken. My 403's have a very clear separation between the blue and white diagonals... I can post pics if your interested.

RE sizing, if you like a slightly roomier fit then maybe true to size is the right option... Id say there is minimal shrinkage, and the S400 31's are a couple of cms bigger now than when they were presoak.

I have to say though, my R400's, when I tried them on dry the top button closed absolutely perfectly around my waist. I had a couple of days of pain and welts around the waist after the soak, and now they fit like an absolute dream - I'd be surprised if anyone that could feel the fit they have on my body would say they are too tight, even though they are tight... if you see what I mean. My point is that I did size down one and I got, in the waist, a perfect fit. I realize that perfect fit is a subjective idea though

Coleslawyum - they go up to 36 I think.

[Gnob]

Awesome.. Can't wait for more fit pics..

@gregornz is your pair cardboard-like or it's quite comfortable? I was very afraid that 19oz will be too much for my country's weather... But after seeing your post and Ranon's I regret getting the 436. ..

[ItsJustNC]

Hey Ranon, do you happen to have any details about the female models.?

[gregornz]

Hey Knob

My 403's are nice and soft now - no different from other raw denim I've had.

The only reason I wouldn'[t get the 436's is because they are on the more 'relaxed fit' side, which I don't like, but I guess you do.

Don't worry - you'll be stoked with your redclouds, I'm sure. REALLY looking forward to seeing fit pics and hearing your thoughts on them... when are you expecting delivery?

[ranonranonarat]

Who would have thought, repro jeans from China! They look pretty good. What's the largest size these come in?

these are the models that have got stock for a size 36:

R400

R424XX

R423XX

No.2 1970s

the rest of the models are out of stock for the 36

Another interesting detail - if you feel the hidden back pocket rivets, there is something in there along with the rivet, prob extra denim, that makes a triangular shape about 1.5cm long. My 403s have already got a clear sheen in that shape.

yes, i have checked the back pocket rivets and below them there is indeed a triangular shape. i suspect it is the extra fabric from when making the sides of the back pocket. he folded them in and tucked them under before sewing over and bar tacking everything. amazing the level you inspec those jeans. i would have never realised that. haha.

I have to say though, my R400's, when I tried them on dry the top button closed absolutely perfectly around my waist. I had a couple of days of pain and welts around the waist after the soak, and now they fit like an absolute dream - I'd be surprised if anyone that could feel the fit they have on my body would say they are too tight, even though they are tight... if you see what I mean. My point is that I did size down one and I got, in the waist, a perfect fit. I realize that perfect fit is a subjective idea though

i understand what you mean about different people having different opinions about a fit.. well, i think that information pretty much settles how i want to size on mine. i would probably be picking out a pair of R424XX Monkey King edition and unstitch the arcs on them or a R400, when my pay comes in next week.

Hey Ranon, do you happen to have any details about the female models.?

nope, as of now there is no online stockist for the female version..

[Gnob]

ya, i was looking for something more of a relax fit this time, all the other denims i had are slim straight slim tapered etc... i wanted a 403 but it went oos so i gotten 436 instead. the measurements on 436 aren't really like some repros/those war models.

i never have any experience with 19oz, was really curious about how they will feel like.

i dont know when mine will arrive, it will be with ranon. =)

i'm really looking forward to the new owner's r400 fit pics.

keep rocking yours!

[gregornz]

I think those 436's will be the dark horse of redclouds stable. They could be really really cool. I think it's a 13.7 ounce denim, and there is something about cone mills on the shop site - I have a feeling that the denim is a specially dyed version. On the shop there is a comparison pic with other models - the 436's look much darker, almost black. I think they could be something special. Also, there is no word about details - what is the pocket bag? They have a crotch rivet, a one off cinch, and really nice rust coloured stitching. There is something going on here, because it is not heavy denim, yet they are the second most expensive jean he makes - there is sure to be a few pleasant surprises I'm sure. It wouldn't surprise me if the cut is designed to be a repro of late 19th / early 20th century work pants because he has previously made pantaloons and 1917 waist overalls. I'm really picking those 436's to be a pleasant suprise!

Rat - good call on picking off that yellow pocket detail - I hope you can get it off nice and easy and clean. They'll be nice jeans I think. What did you decide on sizing? TTS or size down?

The feel of the 19oz denim - It's soft but thick - if that makes sense. Compared to my S400's I can't emphaise enough how hairy it is. Extremely solid, with a suede hand almost.

The thing that is most interesting for me about these redclouds is the dying. The 403's are a real weird colour - I don't know how to describe it - deep blue? Royal blue? They are almost like blue pants, as opposed to jeans. The S400's, however, are classic blue jean blue.

Edit:

It seems the 436's are a 1937 repro

It seems he's gone all out in making a real exact copy of levi's from that period... 5mm stitching instead of 6mm, not sure what that means... "dark nail bag pocket seams"... don't know what that means. "10oz ear"... don't know what that means! Anyway, they are sure to have detail out the arse!

From the website via google translate:

1936'S complete copy

Material / Sewing:

13.7OZ / Xinjiang long Upland / full copy was Cone Mills production DENIM fabric texture / color / pink fabric edge.

1936 dark nail bag back pocket seam process of reproduction, the use of pocket the same RIVET.

30'S, after adjusting belt, crotch rivet before reservation.

Ears 10OZ sewing was made ​​to reproduce.

UNION SPECIAL 5MM stitch sewing ears reproduce year production (usually modern machine-6MM)

Clothing Labels bag after use, recovery was the importance of labor.

RIVET full use of the old

COTTON 100% MADE IN Okayama sewing line

Blog here: http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_5f03bbf10100n66a.html

[ItsJustNC]

I guess I'll have to keep checking in then..! Thanks a lot Ranon.! Great job.! +rep.!

[gregornz]

I guess I'll have to keep checking in then..! Thanks a lot Ranon.! Great job.! +rep.!

Yeah, or try to get hold of the guy - there must be some pairs of the girls ones floating around... I wouldn't imagine they sold out real quick...

Here are the blog links to them:

http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_5f03bbf10100fagb.html

http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_5f03bbf10100f9wo.html

[ranonranonarat]

i'll definitely be picking true to size. i'd rather have them a bit looser than having them not fit at all! the dangers!

[gregornz]

Not to mention to dangers of extreme ball cleavage and the repercussions of this on your family line... they're just jeans man - don't risk it!

[Gnob]

I suppose so.... i was wondering why 436 was as expensive as those signature 17oz.. but ya you explained everything for me =) cant wait for it to arrive actually.

yeah i have seen ladies redcloud in his blog. but just that its not in the taobao website.

[ItsJustNC]

Ah... It looks pretty good but I hope to know more details though... Is anyone able to share his contacts with me. ? That would be a great help... I should be able to liaise with him on my own. I hope my mandarin doesn't fail me...!

[ranonranonarat]

gregornz, i might have missed this out but how did you pickup a pair from him? did you contact him directly and picked up a pair, or did you pick it up from one of the shops, or does he like have a brick and motar storefront? di you get to speak to the guy personally?

[gregornz]

I haven't spoken to the tailor. I sent an email to the shop owner that I wanted him to forward to the tailor [he said he would]

In the email I asked him if he had/would make any of the 1815 jeans or the 1900's.

He never replied. Dunno if he got the email or not.

[gregornz]

I found his contact details:

http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_5f03bbf10100egfr.html

Call him at your own risk! These arty types have tempers!!

REDCLOUD ~ people recruited into the study staff

First, thanks from all friends of friends in Japan and overseas interest and support! ! Thank you for your encouragement! ! I will stick to it! !

Chi Yun has all the products one by me to complete (tired ~ ~ happy ~), from the simple to the studio production of a limited number of people making ~ ~ ~ do not meet the needs of another person is somewhat too much! Many orders can not be completed! Guests causing unnecessary trouble! (Crying ~ ~ ~)

RC RC now in order to develop the first time outside a recruiting professional learning!

Requirements are as follows:

Male 18-25 years old, height does not require physical appearance! A spirit of solidarity, love ~ ~ engraved on the learning culture has a strong interest in making JEANS

Will use the sewing machine (to learn) dare to challenge their pay ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ and learning to pay duty! ! !

Study treatment: RC's production of learning, including three meals a day JEANS and leather ~ `` `~ ~ ~ stay self-care living allowance of $ XXX (non-salary) ~

Working hours: 9:30 - 17:30 ~ ~ ~ end of the year late red envelope! Location: Liaoning, Shenyang

TEL :240-6239 6279

QQ: 378034957

E-MAIL: [email protected]

[ranonranonarat]

just dropped them an email in chinese requesting more information about the brand, so i hope they reply soon! thanks gregornz!

[gregornz]

That's awesome, I'd love to know the detailed details about the denim!

[easy_hk]

Is there a model for females.?

tat was few yrs back, and no future plan yet

@easy_hk: there's such a feature called "multiquote", you don't have to post 4-5 posts with one quote but you can all include them into one single post

thanks b_f

I haven't spoken to the tailor. I sent an email to the shop owner that I wanted him to forward to the tailor [he said he would]

In the email I asked him if he had/would make any of the 1815 jeans or the 1900's.

He never replied. Dunno if he got the email or not.

dont think they still do customize jeans...

[ItsJustNC]

Ahh... Was hoping to kop a pair of jeans for my girl and another old pair of 1915 LVC 501XX-ish kind of suspenders jeans.

[ranonranonarat]

So here is the reply i got from them and they told me more about the story of the brand. I translated this and it should be 99% correct.

Red Cloud & Co. was started in a small office in Shenyang, China, in 1999. They were initially called RedBanner and started out making leathergoods. Between 2001 and 2007, they started learning about fabrics and pattern making and started out by making clothes based on vintage patterns from the old days of the West. In 2007, they officially began making jeans under the brand Red Cloud & Co.

The name Red Cloud is a direct translation of their Chinese name, 赤芸, with the first word translating to "Red". The use of Red is also a strong representation of Eastern and Chinese culture. The second word used, is one of the words in a traditional plant/herb and the name comes from part of this plant, which is known for its hardy and long living properties and is able to repropogate and rise again after being detached. It is believed that this plant was chosen to reflect the resilience of the brand.

In 2010, they opened a small factory operation in Shenyang and specialised in the making of indigo denim jeans. The jeans are largely based on the workwear culture from the west from the 850(??) – 1960s and are made using modern methods but preserving the details such as the hardware and methods of construction from the past and they have been trying to perfect their skill since their coming of in 1999. Everything that has been made is from their hard learned labour in China and everything has been self-taught without any external help.

They have decided to use the Xinjiang long staple cotton because of the premium conditions they were grown in, with sufficient sunlight and sufficient time for the cotton plant to be exposed to maximal growth, hitting lengths of at least 35mm. Because of the cotton being hand picked, they are less susceptible to impurities and also damage to the cotton plant. The denim used is unsanfornized, hence when you purchase one of their products, it is in its cleanest and RAWest form. There is also a high comfort levels because of the high quality of materials which is unique to products coming from Xinjiang province.

100% cotton thread is used to put the jeans together and they believe that by doing so, it will better combine the denim and the construction of the jeans, obtaining a high quality product and ensuring that the threads will evolve together with the denim and fade as it ages together.

By using of 12 different types of thread with different thicknesses and colour (not too sure about the translation for this part), and 4 different needle thickness on their sewing machine, they are able to control the durability of this material as well as the tension in the weave of it. Everything on the jeans are made on old vintage machines they acquire throughout the years.

The denim used on all their jeans are not excessively thick or heavy and because of the high quaity of Xinjiang cotton, the jeans are very comfortable right from the initial wear.

This is a pair of jeans that will evolve with your daily wear and usage and will look beautiful in time to come.

[gregornz]

Ahh... Was hoping to kop a pair of jeans for my girl and another old pair of 1915 LVC 501XX-ish kind of suspenders jeans.

You might be interested in these redclouds; they have suspender buttons:

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=12467284344#

They are very small for a 33 according to the Chinese guy [who refused to sell them to me], he thinks about 80cm in the waist, but even if that's true, they'd fit a 32inch waist or smaller.

Really nice pair - old school thick patch, exposed backpocket rivets etc.

[gregornz]

ranonranonarat, +rep if I didn't have to share it around. Really great job translating all that.

Do you think his xinjiang cotton story is propoganda, or do you believe that it is actually good stuff like he says? I kinda get the feeling that he would go elsewhere for cotton if he didn't like Chinese cotton - he does that for his thread and hardware. Anyway, hand-picked cotton is pretty cool, props to my hommies in the 'jiang.

ranonranonarat, I wonder if you'd like to email him and ask for some details about the different denims he is using, and the dying process... I wonder where they are made, exactly how they are made etc. There is talk of a dip in natural indigo at some point for example - be nice to hear more about this.

Does he know about this thread? I bet he'd be interested to read it! Also, it'd be nice to ask him if he has stock of any models that aren't on taobao... the women's jeans for example...

Anyway, thanks for talking the time to translate all that! It's very much appreciated! Do they use simplified or traditional chinese in Singapore? Is that why it's hard for you to translate?

[ItsJustNC]

Whoa... Sweet pair..! Love the crotch rivet..! Thanks for the reccomandation.!

[ranonranonarat]

ranonranonarat, +rep if I didn't have to share it around. Really great job translating all that.

Do you think his xinjiang cotton story is propoganda, or do you believe that it is actually good stuff like he says? I kinda get the feeling that he would go elsewhere for cotton if he didn't like Chinese cotton - he does that for his thread and hardware. Anyway, hand-picked cotton is pretty cool, props to my hommies in the 'jiang.

ranonranonarat, I wonder if you'd like to email him and ask for some details about the different denims he is using, and the dying process... I wonder where they are made, exactly how they are made etc. There is talk of a dip in natural indigo at some point for example - be nice to hear more about this.

Does he know about this thread? I bet he'd be interested to read it! Also, it'd be nice to ask him if he has stock of any models that aren't on taobao... the women's jeans for example...

Anyway, thanks for talking the time to translate all that! It's very much appreciated! Do they use simplified or traditional chinese in Singapore? Is that why it's hard for you to translate?

hey gregornz, i did tell him about the existence of superfuture itself as well as this thread and he thanks everybody for the support they have given so far. right now they are still a relatively small setup and they are slowly expanding, so i guess it will take them some time to get things sorted out right! i did ask about whether there are sources other than taobao where i could get red cloud & co. denim and he mentioned that other than that, ABFits and a small shop in Europe (in future), there are no other ways to make the purchase at the moment (which is a pity). i did reply him in an email to ask about how it would be possible for me to help make special direct orders for everyone though.

they are well versed in both simplified and traditional chinese and i am able to write in simplified chinese. traditional chinese takes a bit more time for me (because i am not used to writing in that hand) but the main reason why it takes up quite a bit of time is because i am not good with typing it. haha. writing is easy but typing it on a keyboard takes up a fair bit of time. haha.

with regards to the story behind the Xinjiang cotton story, i think there are partial truths to it and of course like always, some information is bound to be pushed to be put in a better light. it is indeed true that most of Xinjiang cotton is handpicked instead of using machines and by hand picking, it does ensure better quality of the cotton unlike using beaters to harvest them. however, i think maybe the cotton is not as great as it is made to sound. probably not much better than japanese cotton or texas long staple cotton. to me, most denim from the different jeans are almost the same in quality, just different in character, so there is no real way that we can say one blend of cotton is "better" than another, except for the black seed denim which i have had the glorious chance to handle and it is indeed slightly smoother to the touch.

hope this information helps!

[gregornz]

Nice one. Let us know if the dude has anything else interesting to say!

When are you expecting the other orders you placed to arrive? Can't wait to see everyone else's fit pics and hear their thoughts on redcloud!

[ranonranonarat]

i am expecting them to probably arrive next week.. haha, most of the orders i have are from people who dont really post fit pics but maybe they will after receiving their jeans (hopefully)!

[easy_hk]

@ranon, great job done !!!

[lazybum]

Fine looking jeans. Is taobao their only vendor? Or is it possible to order straight from the tailor?

[ranonranonarat]

they have another vendor from the US. called ABFits (http://www.abfits.com/) but it will definitely be more expensive, given the shipping costs and conversion rate. taobao at the moment is the cheapest source. let me know if you need help man.