How do you rate tsubi jeans...

[andewhall]

I like selvage as much as the next guy........but I am just not keen on the backs being cut down a straight line, fronts are fine, fairly straight anyway. Half Selvage is possibly where it's at, the only downfall is the backs have to be overlocked, which isn't going to look as flash, but the cut will be better, imo. I might get scorched for saying that.

Oh cheers again John.......keep that info coming.

Do you think 99.5% of people don't really care or know, or even look at the inside of there Jeans to see what seams have been used? I know we at SF all do, but I am making a mass generalisation that most don't give a toss?

There is nothing like a sweet peice of Selvage and some nice flat felled seams though.

http://photobucket.com/albums/y278/andewhall/

[johninger]

you make a good point about the fit.

Straight outer leg seams do inhibit the cut considerably. It means all your shaping must be done on the inner seam. Is not a problem with boys jeans as such, as straight leg seam is fine i think (tapered and boot cut can be accomplished by shaping inner) but for girls having selvage all throughout jean would result in a frumpy sort of a cut.

In the end it comes down to what you like. I am very particular about the finishing of my garments. I hate messy finish and will not buy jeans that are badly done. But i am probably in minority.

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss

[andewhall]

Yeah def, you can see it on the Nudie RR's all the shaping is on the inseam. I just can't think how to cut a good womens selvage, they are so damn curvy.

Are Imperials shaped at the top and finished or are they cut straight with the selvage going all the way up? And obviously felled inseam, yokes and back. Right Im going to the site now to check em' out again. Can you get them in NZ?

http://photobucket.com/albums/y278/andewhall/

[johninger]

yeah totally felled even the inner part of fly.

Selvage runs right down from waist band, true straight leg.

So in effect there is no visible overlocking present in jeans. One of my older pairs has folded denim lining in front pocket (where pocket lining joins denim backing in front pocket). But the more recent pair had this overlocked, probably to reduce amount of material in pocket which can be uncomfortable in fitted jeans.

One problem i had with the construction, in regards to pure authenticity is no chain stitching in leg opening. I wrote to them asking why they didn't and their answer was that chain stitching in leg opening is not necessary and regarding garment stability is a liability (ie if that seam is dragged along ground stitching will break) so they dont do it.

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss

[andewhall]

Yeah I just checked the site, looking good. Yeah it's probably better the pocket facing is overlocked, folding would cause bulk.....no way around it really. A shame to have that small peice of overlocking though, when everything else is super clean. How do they fit with the complete straight leg?

I do like the Jeans, just having problems is the 'Nudiesque' stitching details, beltloops, fly stitching etc. Also the Levi replica style leather label, just throw in something else pulling the pair of jeans open......they are not a Japanese Levi's repro Co. so why? One last gripe is the buttons, all the same size? Big boy at the top, smaller down the fly for less bulk.

Mmm still pondering on the chainstitching thing, comes away easily but leg openings look good and pulled in when shrunk?

http://photobucket.com/albums/y278/andewhall/

[johninger]

no big buttons work well. I prefer to little ones.

Fit is great, best i've worn.

In person is more APC like than nudie, i agree belt loops are similar. But please how can you be critical of emulating others designs Nudie have taken bits and pieces from everywhere!! so to APC and edwin etc. i mean how many combinations are there...

I agree about leather tags, but i'm guessing they think they are original, I wonder how many of the Japanese repros make it down there. lol. I have actually sent them a mail about this same point. And i am not kidding this was their reply (i know hard to believe given my usual silly posting but is genuine reply)

... John (my actual name here) thanks for your concern relating to our leather tag and it's similarity to Levi's tag. We designed that tag in isolation of ever seeing a pair of levi's and we stand by our artist.

Please see Wayne Coyne defence in the Fight Test case vs Cat Stevens...

It sounds like the ozies like to be a little cheeky

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss

[andewhall]

In person is more APC like than nudie, i agree belt loops are similar. But please how can you be critical of emulating others designs Nudie have taken bits and pieces from everywhere!! so to APC and edwin etc. i mean how many combinations are there...

I was being a bit critical......I know there are not many variations of detail and they all go around! Good call.

Thats classic what they wrote back to you.......cheeky Aussies......underarm bowlers......you gotta love em' though

http://photobucket.com/albums/y278/andewhall/

[johninger]

ha i thought NZ and AUS didn't get along.

I mean isn't it like a national pride thing or something

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss

[andewhall]

Haha, there is alot of competition between us and Oz, but it's all good natured....no violent football hooliganism or anything like that. But yeah we like to beat each other at anything, Rugby, Cricket, League........anything.......Aussies are so bloody good at sports. We beat the shit outta them in the Rugby recently, and the League actually. I saw a doco on tv a few weeks ago and it went on to say the Aussies actually rate us first in country/people they get along with, prob vice versa. Same lifestyles, ideas etc. There are like half a million NZers in Oz?? Crazy

http://photobucket.com/albums/y278/andewhall/

[johninger]

Wow, i didn't know that half a million you say. That must be a good percentage of your country in OZ.

Hey andewhall, while we are chatting on this thread, lol, sort of hijacked it i suppose.

What are your favourite sort of jeans?

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss

[haptronic]

John there is something like 4mil people in NZ.

Ande make his own jeans so i hope they are his fav

his narrow cut grifter.

[johninger]

what sort of denim has he used for that pair?

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss

[haptronic]

I sent him the denim 14.5 oz wide loom. Got it retail in auckland. My girl was trying to get more when she was getting jeans made.

The local denim importer Concept thought it was japanese denim and that Workshop would have brought it into nz. We got end of roll like 15m for 9.95nz/m.

[haptronic]

Maybe you know? It's like this at one end.

[johninger]

hard to tell unless you see it in person.

But it looks nice enough.

I hope indigo doesn't cause cancer...

... could you hand me the dental floss