Questions about Japanese Jeans: Samuri, Iron Hearts, Denime, Studio D'Artisan, Sugarcanes…

[Pripyat]

Hey, this is my first post, but I have been a long time lurker. The site has definitely peaked my interest in denim. I have become fascinated by the quality and possibilities of denim as been described by ringring, et al.

I am thinking about getting a new pair of jeans and was looking for some advice. The jeans that I have been especially interested in are Japanese, but am would appreciate advice about other brands as well:

What I am looking for is a straight leg jean with heavy denim (+12oz), preferably very slubby, raw (or one-wash) and selvidge. I am interested in find a jean with high quality denim and very well constructed, some thing that I can break in and will last for a long time.

I like looser fits, currently I have been wearing a pair of Lee Japan 101 ‘37s. Great jeans, I like the fit in the legs, though a bit baggy in the ass. I am interested in the fit of the Levis 501 ‘55s but have not had the opportunity to try them on. I am a 32 waist by the way.

In terms of cuts, I don’t have a fixed point of view on new or old style jeans, I like them both for different reasons. It seems like a lot of the Japanese jeans are based on older cuts from Levis etc. But maybe I am incorrect.

I like jeans that are a bit loose in the leg, not flared or tapered is good. I also don’t have a problem with a more “modern cutâ€Â. The jean that I have that fits me best is a four year old pair of G-Star’s, the S.C. low loose duty, I know they aren’t a fave of this board, but some of their early cuts fitted me well.

I live in place far away from jean civilization, so it is hard for me to check out jeans in person easily. So pictures and detailed descriptions would be excellent. Thanks for any help.

[Geowu]

Hi, maybe you could browse through rakuten or other online-stores to see which one of those brands you actually like the most. The ones you mentioned all seem to fit your requisites pretty well. I can't say much, maybe someone else can. You can find online-stores through Google, and then ask for a more specific brand and model, and eventually order a pair.

btw, welcome!

[ringring]

All those brands you mention will do great jeans. As you're looking for very slubby, try Sugarcane, Samurai, Denime or Warehouse.

For loose leg & slubby try Denime's XX. Although they'll also be a bit baggy in the arse. For a neat arse, and loose-ish, straight legs try the Guitar Wolf jeans by Dry Wolf. Beautifully made, with their softer handfeel denim (although the softness isn't to everyone's taste).

The Warehouse Duck Diggers are a real sleeper. Not talked about too much, but with wonderful slubby denim that reveals itself after a few washes. I think Grandism.com may have had them.

I don't know where you live, but of those brands, probably Sugarcane is the one you're most likely to find outside it's native land.

Otherwise there are plenty of US and European brands that do great dry/one-wash selvedge jeans.

Edited by ringring on Sep 15, 2005 at 05:59 PM

[minya]

Someone needs to really come up with a "Japanese jeans FAQ" that explain how each style fits.. It sure is hard to tell from the Rakuten sites.

[stripes39]

hey ya'll i'm looking for 1500 yards of premium japanese denim to manufacture a line i'm creating. Tomen Textile for japan is sending me a bunch of swatches of their denim line.. you guys know of any mills or manufacturers in Japan that make japanese denim in Japan??

Thanks

the sweat drip down my.......

[Geowu]

Kurabo - http://www.kurabo.co.jp/

Kaihara - http://www.kaihara-denim.com/en-index-r.htm

Nisshinbo - http://www.nisshinbo.co.jp/

[stripes39]

thanks for the links, i've contacted kurabo and nishinbo, they dont' seem to understand my english very well everytime i call them. Kaihara sounds good and i'll contact them tonight.. heres another challenging question for you, i'm looking for 100 percent organic pima denim made in a japanese mill... i will send someone a 20 dollar starbucks card ( i live in seattle) from the first starbucks store (signed by howard schultz(owner) (his son goes to my school)), if someone can get me the contact for this cotton...

Thanks

the sweat drip down my.......

[Geowu]

if you make it, be sure to tell us.

[Pripyat]

thanks ringring and geowu,

I really second Minya's suggestion for a japanese denim faq about the fits of the jeans. I realize I am new to denim, but I can't tell on most of the rakuten images what the fit is like!

Ringring, where could I find the Guitarwolf that you mentioned? Or links to pictures?

thanks again.

[ringring]

For Guitarwolf have a look at this list of denim brands : http://superfuture.com/city/supertalk/index.cfm?page=topic&topicID=817&start=121

Look for the link marked 'Jet G'. They are pre-shrunk, so the tag size is the correct size.

[Pripyat]

hi ringring, one more set of questions: what is the fit like on the duck diggers? Other than the cinch-back could you explain what the difference is between the '30s and '50s version (is it refering to the fit of the Levi's '30s and '50s?) Also are they pre-shrunk? Thanks so much, you are an encyclopedia...

[ringring]

Hey Pripyat

I can only give you my opinion regarding fit on the 30's Diggers (and even then it will be subjective, your milage may vary). They fit 'cowboy' style. Traditional rise, slim legs. They will shrink a fair bit (8-10%) after washing. With the Diggers, it may be wise to add an inch to the tag size, because the waists are quite snug (in my limited experience). But it depends how you like to wear your jeans.

I've not really paid much attention to comparing the 1930 & 1950 styles. I recall the 50s style had hidden back pocket rivets whilst they are on the surface on the 30s version. I'll pay closer attention next time.

The denim is fantastic though.

[meditation]

Any recommendations on a slim fitting japanese jean, like the apc unisex?

The important thing before I report in... my position.

[ringring]

5EP. US brand but made in Japan with Japanese denim.