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Kris Van Assche FW 08/09


beberthur

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Gotttt this is bad, reminds me of dsquared with some random other stuff thrown in.

Van Assche styling is often horrible and his cuts don't work very well on most people but he has a few genuinely interesting designs.

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I expected KVA to position his line as a counterpoint to his Dior Homme collection, but this was KVA for the High St. The 'thrown together' styling is immature, it's been done better nearly everywhere else already. Executed like this, any merit held in the details, cuts or fabrics is robbed and we're left with 40 clumsy looks without justification for the runway.

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This was by far one of my favorite, if not my ultimate favorite, show I saw from either Milan or Paris. I liked how exceedingly wearable it all was, especially by KVA standards; the grey suit looks great fitting and lacks any typical gimmickry like assymetrical lapels or arbitrary zippers. Its accessibility (and his leverage from now being head of DH) should hopefully mean that this collection will be stocked at the so many retailers who dropped him when his stuff got off the wall and unsellable, so I can get it. I found it to me far more Hedi-era Dior Homme (S/S '06?) than I did Dsquared. I don't get that reference at all. KVA's collection for DH, however, was totally disappointing.

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