Do side-seams on tees make any difference?

[Ziddy]

I mean the seam from the armpit to the bottom. Is this a sign of a higher-quality t-shirt or not? I've noticed that some t-shirts from K-Mart even have these, though, so maybe not?

[Geowu]

the ones made in Japan by Loopwheeler have the least seams possible, in order to maximize the confort. they don't have side seams and are considered great tees

Edited by Geowu on Aug 15, 2005 at 05:24 PM

[dagsolo]

from my experience, tees without side seams tend to torque or twist after washing.

tees with side seams (some tees have seams under both arms)

will hold their shape better after wear.

Can I ask you something? These sunglasses: they're really nice. Are they like government issue, or do you guys all go to the same store together?

[Good]

Tees with no side seams are almost always of a higher quality. All tees, unless the pieces of fabric are all individually cut by hand, will twist to a certain degree when washed... the twisting is much less noticable if the shirt has no side seams.

[Serge d Nimes]

A lot of great vintage and vintage repro shirts have no side seams. I actually used to have an old Bathing Ape shirt with no side seams.

Carpe Denim! (not the jean brand silly!)

[the black arm]

as I understand it, tees with no side seams are made from "tube"/round spun fabric which is more expensive to make since you need special machines and it has to be done in different sizes (widths) . .they do tend to twist, but thats part of the wear . . . from my experience they tend to fit better; they're less boxy than the side seam t shirts, unless the side seam t is actually cut to be fitted.

[Cue]

wearing an ojas tee at the moment with no side seams and it's super nice quality

[hifashion]

yes the cost for no side seems is more than regular tees. no side seems are good for prints that you want to do on the sides also, so you don't have that overlay of ink in the seems, it will be nice and smooth

[dagsolo]

ok, I am not screaming this info. I merely typed it all out in caps and don't feel like re-typing:

as far as tubular tees go:

YOU HAVE LESS COST IN CUTTING THE FABRIC, AND IT IS POSSIBLE TO

MAKE TUBULAR T'S ON AUTOMATIC MACHINERY, THEREFORE ELIMINATING JOBS!!

AGAIN, TUBULAR GOODS WILL TORQUE IN WASHING BECAUSE JERSEY IS KNIT TUBULAR

AND BY PUTTING IN SIDE SEAMS, YOU REDUCE THIS OCCURRENCE!! ADDITIONALLY, IN

SOME CASES, TUBULAR GOODS ARE USED WITH CALENDAR LINES GOING DOWN THE FRONT

AND BACK OF THE GARMENT. THIS MEANS THAT THE FACTORY IS TWISTING THE FABRIC

FROM ITS KNIT FORM 1/2 A BODY, AND THESE MARKS (CALENDAR LINES) ARE

PERMANENT AND CANNOT BE REMOVED, ANOTHER SIGN OF CHEAP!!

THIS IS ABSOLUTE KNOWLEDGE IN THE INDUSTRY AND IT IS WHY EVEN THE LOWEST

PRICE STORES, WHEN DOING IMPORTS WILL NOT ALLOW TUBULAR GOODS. IT WON'T

PASS LAB TESTING FOR TORQUING AMONG OTHER PROBLEMS. WHEN THEY ARE BUYING

THE CHEAP STUFF MADE OF EITHER AMERICAN FABRIC OR IN CENTRAL AMERICA (WITH

MUCH AUTOMATED MACHINERY) THE PRICES REFLECT IT!!! WE KNOW A FAIRLY

AUTOMATED FACTORY IN BRAZIL WHO WAS ABLE TO DO LIGHTWEIGHT TUBULAR T'S FOR

$0.50-.75/PC FOB!!!!

Can I ask you something? These sunglasses: they're really nice. Are they like government issue, or do you guys all go to the same store together?

[bloden]

I don't know..from what i've been told with or without side seam a knit t shirt is going to torque some. And with side seams this torqueing is more obious. I think the biggest factor is the quality of the knit fabric itself and how it is prepared and cut...

Side seams is more work for sure, but that doesn't necessarily mean better quality, especially if the cutting and construction is wack....

I think it kind of all depends on the look you want too

[dubplate4000]

You can't get a fitted tee with tubular bodies. Tubular tends to be more boxy as a result. The only problem with side seam is there is more room for error in cutting and sewing.

[powerglov]

American Apparel makes some pretty fitted tees with tubular bodies....

[Kane]

American Apparel tees are awful in terms of quality. We've had dye lot issues on these more than anything else (ie sleeves don't match the body). Also, they torque something awful.

The reason why AA's all popular right now is due to the fact that they sell blanks that are contra-Gildan/Fruit of the Loom, etc. It's a lighter weight fabric that's ringspun. Plus the cuts are more flattering.

However, technically, AA tees aren't all that great.

And yes, there may be exceptions, but the rule is that tees without side seams = cheap. Think tube socks.

[Ziddy]

In that case, what are some good tees to buy, that aren't too expensive? What I'm looking for:

1) A nice, soft material (unlike cheap, cardboardish Hanes/FotL/etc tees that most people wear).

2) Cool-looking prints (preferably slightly more abstract designs rather than words, though a logo tee or something of an obscure company would be fine).

3) Fits tight (I'm a small person, and I hate wearing shirts that hang like tents over me).

The only tee I have that really fits these three is one I got from Hollister. I gues I could buy more from there, but surely there's better tees out there?

[boystory]

Quote:

American Apparel tees are awful in terms of quality. We've had dye lot issues on these more than anything else (ie sleeves don't match the body). Also, they torque something awful.

The reason why AA's all popular right now is due to the fact that they sell blanks that are contra-Gildan/Fruit of the Loom, etc. It's a lighter weight fabric that's ringspun. Plus the cuts are more flattering.

However, technically, AA tees aren't all that great.

And yes, there may be exceptions, but the rule is that tees without side seams = cheap. Think tube socks.

--- Original message by Kane on Aug 16, 2005 05:26 PM

people also like saying they're wearing aa stuff. because, yknow, it's 'better' or something.

[Kane]

I've had luck picking up vintage pieces off eBay. Usually shirts that have been worn repeatedly are nice and soft. Also, for some reason, in the early '90s tees all were sized friggingginormous.

Alternately, go shopping. A lot of people size their own tees, and aren't slaves to AA, AAA, Gildan, Fruit, etc.

But if you're looking for blanks, I like M&O. Just get whatever size that fits, and ignore labelling.

And as a rule, Japanese/Euro sizing is noticably smaller than North American.