Advice on first raw denim purchase (have tried some, but none that I like)

[dc/dc]

I am relatively new to the denim scene, and currently all of my jeans are of the pre-shrunk variety, and mainly Levi's. I'm looking to purchase my first pair of raw jeans, but none of the ones I've tried have been what I'm looking for. I've tried Levi's 501xx, but they are too baggy. I tried H&M Sliq's on a friend's recommendation, and they were too skinny on my hips. I'd like to find a pair that fit somewhere between a Levi's 511 and 514. I don't need Levi's, but I'm using them as a fit reference for the experts to hopefully provide some advice.

Just as an aside, I've been following the generally accepted best practices for denim treatment (i.e., not washing until absolutely required, etc.), but I really need help to make my foray into raw denim a pleasant one.

Thanks in advance!

[gimmegimme]

I'll step in before you get eaten alive.

First...read the Denim Encyclopaedia.

Second...look through the various brands carried at BiG & Self Edge.

Third...ask specific question in the Small Question thread.

[dc/dc]

Thanks for the helpful advice.

I'm quite familiar with forums, and actually moderate some, but none quite so large as this.

I actually read through the encyclopedia previously, but did not find the answer to my specific question, so I posted this thread as a result. I missed the small questions sticky.

[Guest declasse]

i was a noob not long ago, still am. one tip i can give is study the sizing right. that's got to be the trickiest part of dealing with raw/dry. some shrink a lot, some not as much. many brands are oversized in the dry models as well. you're at the right place to start your denim studies. good luck

[habia]

It is probably impratical for you to do this or you would have already, but if you can get to Self Edge and try stuff on in store while talking to someone there that would probably be the best possible scenario.

Otherwise try taking measurements on the 511 and 514 and looking at sizing charts for something similar.

Good luck.

It will be worth it to order from somewhere with a good exchange policy if you end up not being super sure when you buy.

[gimmegimme]

The encyclopaedia (or just do a search) should answer all your questions on care, washing, etc....but all jeans are different, so find the pair you want first, then look for the info relating to those jeans specifically.

As for cuts, I'm not very familiar with Levi's numbering...randomly, I would suggest looking into Studio D'Artisan SD-103, Samurai S5000vx, and Flat Head's F380. Those are 3 pairs that I have, or would want in my collection.

[dc/dc]

It is probably impratical for you to do this or you would have already, but if you can get to Self Edge and try stuff on in store while talking to someone there that would probably be the best possible scenario.

Otherwise try taking measurements on the 511 and 514 and looking at sizing charts for something similar.

Good luck.

It will be worth it to order from somewhere with a good exchange policy if you end up not being super sure when you buy.

Actually, I live out of hotels pretty much, so I don't mind traveling. I've just never known the places to look. I'm normally shopping for shoes.

The measurement idea is great, and I think I will do that.

[dc/dc]

The encyclopaedia (or just do a search) should answer all your questions on care, washing, etc....but all jeans are different, so find the pair you want first, then look for the info relating to those jeans specifically.

As for cuts, I'm not very familiar with Levi's numbering...randomly, I would suggest looking into Studio D'Artisan SD-103, Samurai S5000vx, and Flat Head's F380. Those are 3 pairs that I have, or would want in my collection.

I don't really have any questions on care (I don't think anyway), but the suggestion of searching for information on specific jeans I find is good.

[gimmegimme]

...I've been following the generally accepted best practices for denim treatment (i.e., not washing until absolutely required, etc.), but I really need help to make my foray into raw denim a pleasant one.

I was referring to this ^ comment.

[dc/dc]

I was referring to this ^ comment.

Ah. That comment should probably have been split up. The first part about the care was really only there to say that I'm not a total n00b when it comes to denim, and the last sentence was really not a part of that. It was more of a summary statement of the thread.

[Cali]

I agree with the reccomendation that if you can get to San Fran or NY go to the aforementioned stores to get the right size and style for you. Sizing can be tricky, especially if you are not used to the Japanese brands

[Guest declasse]

also, always a good experiment phase jeans are the cheapo levi's STF, good introductory jeans to dry denim

[rome1]

the levis 514/511 is a rather skinny cut sounds like the skull 5010, samurai 710, or flathead 310 would be right up your alley.

[shoejuice]

I dont know anything about levis as they are gone to me now. But what I do know is that if you live in New York try the Apc store in soho cause the people there are really nice even though I ran out of the store like a mad man without saying anything to find my friend who was out side so I could borrow a dollar. And they helped me out a lot on the fit and stuff. If I wasnt distracted by the Dukes the Apcs woulda been my first raw.

[fallen angels]

apc new standards were my first raw denims, i highly recommend them for your "starter" pair

[newaesthetic]

While I don't have a pair, I'll agree with fallen angels about APC NS'. They aren't too extreme in the taper and provide good quality, cut, and pretty decent fading if worn regularly. I ended up with New Cures, but only because I prefered the cut. Also, from my time lurking/posting here, I've noticed a lot less people have problems with crotch blow-out in APC's as opposed to say, Nudies.

Have no experience with Uniqlo stuff (until they wise up and come north), but it sounds like their denim would be a good idea if possible.

[Cue]

I'm agreeing on the APCs... great starting point, and still great jeans...

[beatle]

Ask Dr. [email protected]

[dc/dc]

Thanks to everyone for the constructive advice. It helps a lot!

I'm going to head up to Montreal on Saturday, so I'm going to look through the directory and try to find a shop there.

[gimmegimme]

Thanks to everyone for the constructive advice. It helps a lot!

I'm going to head up to Montreal on Saturday, so I'm going to look through the directory and try to find a shop there.

Doubt you'll have much luck in Montreal...

[Action Waffle]

My latest pair of jeans are actually me looking for pretty much the same thing as you. I went with KMW Rockers, they fit only a tiny bit tighter than 514s in the thigh and seat and whatnot and are closer to 511s in taper and leg fit. KMW's also really nice denim. Only real objections are that the pockets, while simple, are pretty damn big, and that alot of people dislike the exposed coinpocket selvage.

Besides Rockers, New Standards are probably a good idea, NCs'd be a bit tight for your case. Only problem with APC for newbies is that you have to trust us about sizing down, they practically stretch from denim tights into hammer pants.