Newbie to denim- what to get?

[artificialard]

I've generally been into dressing smarter but never really paid attention to jeans until I went shopping with a friend at Over the Rainbow (Toronto) to get her Seven jeans, never knew jeans could be so good. I basically used to wear Club Monaco and Buffalo but were never really happy with them.

I want to get some nice jeans now, and tried the Diesel and Seven they had there for men. Didn't really like the wash of the Diesels and the Seven were OK. I read elsewhere in the forum that Seven was a 'girls' brand but I don't really care. I just want jeans that have a good fit (I'm 29 waist so it's harder to find good sizes with the big chain brands) and that last.

So men's jeans, good style, durable, and fit. Preferably with ideas of where to buy them in Toronto...

Thanks!

[Geowu]

Washed or unwashed? Do you care for selvage? unwashed jeans last more, especially more than Diesel and Seven. I'm no denim expert but I recommend APC (good price and top quality/fit), Helmut Lang, Nudie. These have a fair price and reflect my personal preference on minimal design. For washed, distressed denim I'm not the right person to answer you. I like Rogan's wash a bit but I prefer raw denim.

[Dave Russ]

Browse some of the past topics on denim...There are tons of topics on the best denim currently available. They get extremely detailed into fit/style/price/ of various labels...I pretty much wear Rogan, Rag&Bone, APC and Paper but it all really depends on your body type and denim preference....i forgot whose tag line it is on this board but life really is too short for bad denim.

“Isn’t it strange how it’s a fad to bite your idols when the whole reason you liked them is because their shit wasn’t recycled?†- Aesop Rock

[artificialard]

I've been browsing many previous topics and getting bits and pieces, but not being a long-time denim junkie would like to get some direct opinions.

I would prefer something with a wash, slightly faded. The wash on the Seven jeans that I saw, maybe a bit lighter is what I'm going for. I like 'light' fabrics and I've felt the Paper jeans, but worry that they're too thin.

APC already mentioned twice- I looked it up and it says they use 'selvege' denim. That means they use the original Japanese looms to make the denim as it was first made... right? So selvege material is more durable? Is it thicker, more/less comfortable?

Where's the best place to get APC jeans in Toronto? Seems like exactly what I need- wonderfully simple but tasteful jeans that would last. They look too cool after I checked out their web site... Rogan is a more washed brand? Where to for that?

Thanks a lot for the help- my friends basically GUESS or GAP and just reminds me of the back ad on 'Seventeen' magazine or something. Boring.

Edited by artificialard on Apr 25, 2005 at 10:57 PM

Edited by artificialard on Apr 25, 2005 at 11:05 PM

[b e]

no APC's in Toronto, there;s one store in Montreal that sells APC

if you want APC in toronto your best bet is to buy them online

[triniboy27]

hey there,

I can't necessarily recommend a pair of jeans for you, but I can let you know some places you should check out..

Here goes:

TNT Blu (located in Hazelton Lanes, right near Over the Rainbow)..they carry Rogan, BlueBlood, Nudie, Adrian Goldschmied, Loomstate, SealKay, and Paper Denim & Cloth (also are supposed to hopefully carry PRPS)

Due West (Queen St. West, right before Spadina)..they carry Diesel, Energie, G-Star, Nudie

Lileo (at the Distillery..what up, IJF??!!)..they carry Rock and Republic, Nudie, J.Lindeburg, Boss, and a host of others that I can't remember right now, but hopefully IJF will fill in the rest.

Holt Renfrew: Nudie, Energie, Diesel, Seven, Firetrap, True Religion.

There's lots of places in TO to find decent denim...just depends on what you're willing to spend.

Hope this helped.

Edited by triniboy27 on Apr 26, 2005 at 08:48 AM

[Geowu]

So selvege material is more durable? Is it thicker, more/less comfortable?

Some say denim can be produced the same way being non-selvage, but I find selvage to be much more compact, and therefore more durable. The thickness and confort depends on the specific brand. APC has a thin, textured right-hand twill, which is not as soft as left-hand but is more resistant, and it is confortable. Any of those brands on TNT Blu, mentioned by triniboy27, should be good.

[ringring]

The width and edge finish of a denim has no bearing on the durability of the cloth. The durability (abrasion resistance and tear strength) depends on weight, type of yarn, yarn count and weave.

eg. a cheap 14oz denim will probably be more durable than an expensive 9oz selvage denim.

The notion that selvage is somehow more durable than wide-loom denim is misleading. And yes, wide width denim can be produced in the same way as narrow width selvage denim. Same yarn, same dyestuffs, same weaves, same finishing.

[b e]

if you go up to First Markham Place, there's a store in there where they sell Juicy, Seven, Paper, Energie, Diesel, and more

pay cash = tax free (better chance of this if you're asian)

if the guy likes you, 20% off (for frequent customers)

selection is little though, maybe 15-20 styles of jeans in total

[wild_whiskey]

Check out Earnest Sewn. They have some mid-blue washed jeans with realistic fading (although the behind the knees is too low). The color and "style" is comparable to Seven, but with a more flattering cut and less branding. Paper Denim & Cloth also make a really nicely cut and styled product - particularly LTD, GTO and ICN. Also, the Nomad Tribe jeans are really cool.

For the rest, you've just gotta get out there and looking, but stay away from the following:

Excessive / yellowy washes. You want your jeans to look authentic, even if they are obviously pre-treated (AKA not worn-in by you).

Excessive boot cuts. They are outdated now, even though Seven disagrees.

Stupid details like patch patterns and stenciled words. They suck. I'm not against the little Tsubi crosses/T's or the Kunna "K" but things like gothic font words... uck.

Energie, G-Star.

Ask your girlfriend for her opinion on the fit - she'll have a good idea. Looking behind at your ass in a mirror isn't going to do them justice, have her take a good look at them while you walk around.

If you plan to cuff them at the bottom - get selvage. Do not cuff non-selvage jeans, it's looks rediculous to have that puffy fraying outseam staring everyone in the face while they walk by. If you go with any of the above brands, don't cuff them.

Feel the fabric when youre looking at them. You want the denim to have a nice variation in height and slubbiness when you rub your thumb across it. Also, puffy fabrics are a matter of opinion, but I think the more compact, the better.

[hahnstch]

Quote:

Check out Earnest Sewn. They have some mid-blue washed jeans with realistic fading (although the behind the knees is too low). The color and "style" is comparable to Seven, but with a more flattering cut and less branding. Paper Denim & Cloth also make a really nicely cut and styled product - particularly LTD, GTO and ICN. Also, the Nomad Tribe jeans are really cool.

For the rest, you've just gotta get out there and looking, but stay away from the following:

Excessive / yellowy washes. You want your jeans to look authentic, even if they are obviously pre-treated (AKA not worn-in by you).

Excessive boot cuts. They are outdated now, even though Seven disagrees.

Stupid details like patch patterns and stenciled words. They suck. I'm not against the little Tsubi crosses/T's or the Kunna "K" but things like gothic font words... uck.

Energie, G-Star.

Ask your girlfriend for her opinion on the fit - she'll have a good idea. Looking behind at your ass in a mirror isn't going to do them justice, have her take a good look at them while you walk around.

If you plan to cuff them at the bottom - get selvage. Do not cuff non-selvage jeans, it's looks rediculous to have that puffy fraying outseam staring everyone in the face while they walk by. If you go with any of the above brands, don't cuff them.

Feel the fabric when youre looking at them. You want the denim to have a nice variation in height and slubbiness when you rub your thumb across it. Also, puffy fabrics are a matter of opinion, but I think the more compact, the better.

--- Original message by wild_whiskey on Apr 26, 2005 02:50 PM

whiskey, i agree that earnest sewn has one of the better washes around, but they need to make the cut slightly more generous on the thigh area. i saw an article at newyorkmetro that said something like "go easy on the squats to fit into these jeans" or something, and that is so true.

and yes, cuffing non-selvage is just plain ugly, 'indecent exposure' of the fraying outseam

[Blanc0]

Edited by Blanc0 on May 17, 2005 at 07:50 AM

[soultek]

Blanc0,

How do the premium 501's wear? better than the cheapy non-selvedge 501s?

[Slammin]

where are premium 501's available ? They sound perfect for what I am looking for???

any info would be great-thanks

http://slamxhype.blogspot.com

[Serge d Nimes]

There are no premium 501's other than the 501 XX repros. He was refering to the contemporary 501XX that are shrink to fit. I don't much care for Levis Premium myself, I think they totally missed the mark there. it's like they were going after the people that buy Diesel and Paper jeans when those types of people thumb their noses at Levii's anyways. They should come up with a modern vintage brand; much like the jeans that apc make!

Carpe Denim!

Edited by Serge d Nimes on Apr 26, 2005 at 08:58 PM

[Slammin]

serge.. would you recommend apc over shrink to fit then?

http://slamxhype.blogspot.com

[rhythmandsound]

Quote:

where are premium 501's available ? They sound perfect for what I am looking for???

any info would be great-thanks

--- Original message by Slammin on Apr 26, 2005 08:38 PM

i think he's talking about the LVC (levi's vintage collection) where you can get repros of rigid shrink-to-fit 1947 and 1955 style 501's (selvage denim, etc)

[Yakboy Equals Nurturer]

Go for APC. The price is right, the denim is good quality and in six months you'll have the satisfaction of owning a pair of jeans that you have made completely personal through regular wear. The sizes they give are all over the place (a 32 Anglais seems to be about two sizes different from a 32 Rescue), so try a pair on if you can.

There's a reason for all the APC-love on Superfuture.

[wild_whiskey]

Okay while we're on the subject of A.P.C. -

what are the "hipster jeans?" I asked before but never got an answer. I've heard references to them quite a few times but since they are not on their website I'm quite confused. Are they women's jeans, men's jeans, or another unisex?

[ramoer]

I just bought a pair of 501xx Shrink to fits @ mervyns for 30 bux. The quality isnt APC obviously, but they do look pretty similar, and you cant beat that price.

[b e]

why would you think that Shrink to Fits look the same as APC's?

While they are a good deal, I dont find them the same at all. In that case, Levis and Edwin are the same brand!

[ramoer]

the dye and stitching looked pretty similar to me, Im not a denim nerd though so maybe its just me. I actually tried on the APC's but they run so damn huge, the 32 waste felt like a 34 easily.

next time try reading it again, I said similar not the same.

Edited by ramoer on Apr 27, 2005 at 02:17 PM

[MetalGuru]

What do you think of these? Comments anyone?

http://www.denimbirds.com/

"Pardon my heart if I show that I care"

Neil Young

[Blanc0]

Edited by Blanc0 on May 17, 2005 at 07:50 AM

[wild_whiskey]

Metalguru from what I've seen, the styles on Denimbirds are pretty cool. I like the back pocket design... my pick would be the Birds Bootcut Broken Dry. Looks like a nice balance between front and back rise and a great cut on the seat area. Also, DBs have rivets on the back pockets. Dammit, why couldn't my RR's have them too?

Edited by wild_whiskey on Apr 27, 2005 at 02:39 PM

[rhythmandsound]

Quote:

I was at American Rag in SF yeaterday, and to my surprise they had PREMIUM Red Tab shrink to fit 501 xx. they had the thicker leather WB patch, and the premium label inside the WB, I was surprised to see these, these were NOT LVC. I was surprised also because I actually work for LS&Co, (not in RT design, LSS), and had never seen these, but was just talking about the same concept earlier in the day.

Go check 'em out, they are new for SP'05.

--- Original message by Blanc0 on Apr 27, 2005 02:33 PM

sounds interesting: besides the leather patch what's the difference between these and regular $30 shrink-to-fits?

[Geowu]

wouldn't the back pocket rivets scratch surfaces? that the reason why Levi's invented hidden rivets? why do some brands still use it? specially female brands like notify, denimbirds... interesting.

[soultek]

Blanc0,

Funny you should mention that. I thought I was losing my mind. I saw those too at another store and swore they were Premium selvedge 501 STF's. I saw them in LA at Politix I think.

Then there are the normal rigid premiums that are also selvedge too. I thought that the Rigids must have been what I saw, but I guess not.

Pretty confusing.

I asked on this board about the Premium 501's but no one must know about them (maybe because they are new??) because no one posted anything.

[soultek]

unhidden rivets suck. I have a pair of Paper denim with them (bought them way back before I really paid attention to jeans a much). I've marked up my chairs pretty bad with them, but they are cheapo chairs. But my buddy was over who just got married and bought a house w/ his wife and furniture and the whole nine. He was over and asked what those marks were on my chairs and I said that I had this pair of jeans w/ rivets on the outside. He said that was funny because his brand new chairs have the same marks on them... damn.

I think unhidden rivets are only acceptable if you want authentic repro's. Otherwise, don't make the same mistake I did!

[darknworn]

i agreed with the shown rivets. i love the leather seats in my car. unless i was to buy a real pair of vintage levi's, back rivets are unacceptable.