J.W. Anderson mens F/W 14 - London

[bill]

[bill]

[bill]

[bill]

[historyofmyworld]

i can't with jw. this looks like mash up of raf and phoebe.

[fire_of_desire]

i can't with jw. this looks like mash up of raf and phoebe.

The worst thing is that Phoebe Simons dresses men into womens clothes... For I_have_stopped_counting_what season...

[djrajio]

The actually clothing that is sold/in the stores is very toned down from the shows but yes I'm really tired of the gender bending season after season.

[ProfMonnitoff]

Looks like JW Anderson to me.

 

I think it's important to remember that he and his label are still quite young, but also that if you're looking for clothes that don't play around with gender maybe you should be looking somewhere else.

 

Some of the stuff appeals to me, for example this look is fun. Once you look past the detailing, it's actually a very traditional masculine silhouette.

 

[savage science fiction]

I like this.

JW Anderson may be referential but he is not derivative.

There is a lot of newness here in terms of construction, textiles, silhouettes. 

Even if these ideas are somewhat abstract , as least he is bringing newness to the table

[howl]

Stays true to his exploration of subverting the established silhouette for a man.

Despite my lack of favourability with the resulting output from past seasons, surprisingly, this season has got me nodding to the rhythm in some places.
I think this time he's achieved a far better balance between the shapes and the texture of things.
 

What he's doing seems to be something of a zeitgeist, of men being keen on expanding what is possible for them.
You see it with 'bill' and 'cotonblanc' and their interest in Celine.
This might not be plausible or whatever but when done right, it's entertaining.
And the runway is entertainment.

[ProfMonnitoff]

As a side note, what's up with sending out the same look 3x in a row just different colorways? Obviously designers often show  multiple variations of a garment on the runway, but I can't remember seeing anyone do it so explicitly. 

[madame twerq]

The actually clothing that is sold/in the stores is very toned down from the shows but yes I'm really tired of the gender bending season after season.

 

This is a really shallow critique though. From a technical perspective this is totally solid so why does it matter that they have dicks swinging in their pants? Like, what would your reaction be if this was a women's show and why does that change when the model's gender changes?

 

 

As a side note, what's up with sending out the same look 3x in a row just different colorways? Obviously designers often show  multiple variations of a garment on the runway, but I can't remember seeing anyone do it so explicitly. 

 

Ann Demeulemeester's spring 2011 menswear show, where all the looks came back out in black. Or like, every Rick Owens show where he does an obscene number of looks by cycling blocks with slashed up panels in different fabrications. I agree that he didn't do it so well here though. I see a lot of missed opportunities to repiece things together.

[froople]

 

I never knew how much I wanted to look like a slutty librarian until now.