Japanese shoemakers central

[Fuuma]

There is an emerging trend of Japanese artisans releasing products in the mould of traditional shoe makers. Elaborate construction coupling machine and hand work, typical offerings of derbies, blutchers and ankle boots, Goodyear and blake yelted leather soles, aniline and crust hides are but a few of the signs that point to a fanatical respect of traditions all but forgotten save for a few makers in a handful of world capitals. The exploration of bold shapes and eccentric colours highlighted by elaborate patinas point to a particular affinity for the most honoured tradition of French makers (John Lobb Paris, Berluti, Corthay, Aubercy).

A few brands (most only offer bespoke):

Otsuka

http://www.rakuten.ne.jp/gold/otsuka/

http://www.otsuka-shoe.com/

Saion

http://homepage3.nifty.com/saion_shoes/index.html

Osamu Egawa

http://www.k5.dion.ne.jp/~snug/profile.html

Hiro Yanagimachi

http://www2.plala.or.jp/MIZUKI-NAKATA/shoesphot-yanagimachi-wingtip.htm

http://www2.plala.or.jp/MIZUKI-NAKATA/shoesphot-yanagimachi-wingtip2.htm

Koji Suzuki for Spigola

http://www.oshitate.com/products/other/spigola/koji-suzuki/clientele%20products.htm

[RFKorp]

the shoes on the Saion page in particular are rocking my word.

I need a pair of shoes that look like these: http://homepage3.nifty.com/saion_shoes/012_1.html

And I can't decide if these are awesome or awful: http://homepage3.nifty.com/saion_shoes/031_1.html

I mean, nobody actually has a foot shaped like that, do they?

[peteyross]

When you look at more pictures of these shoes (if you follow the links) the heels are all screwed up. They look like they belong on a cowboy boot...very high and slanted. On a dress shoe, they are almost feminine looking. Is this to give the wearer a little more height? It's easiest to see what I'm talking about when you look at the profile view of the shoe.

Also, a few of these look like straight copies of Berluti and Corthay (albeit with the weird heel action).

There is a massive thread over on Styleforum on shoe makers and there are several Japanese companies in the list.

[Guest winq]

the shoes on the Saion page in particular are rocking my word.

I need a pair of shoes that look like these: http://homepage3.nifty.com/saion_shoes/012_1.html

And I can't decide if these are awesome or awful: http://homepage3.nifty.com/saion_shoes/031_1.html

I mean, nobody actually has a foot shaped like that, do they?

http://www.xihalife.com/u/0/0/8/uploads/large/23324817544f6d3b177a24.jpg

[Fuuma]

When you look at more pictures of these shoes (if you follow the links) the heels are all screwed up. They look like they belong on a cowboy boot...very high and slanted. On a dress shoe, they are almost feminine looking. Is this to give the wearer a little more height? It's easiest to see what I'm talking about when you look at the profile view of the shoe.

Also, a few of these look like straight copies of Berluti and Corthay (albeit with the weird heel action).

There is a massive thread over on Styleforum on shoe makers and there are several Japanese companies in the list.

Are you talking about the Saion heels or in general. French shoemakers also tend to have more pronounced heels than their English counterparts and those are not out of line. I happen to think they look great on some models and, since most are bespoke, it is always possible to ask for a simpler one.

Styleforum is really focused on American and English shoes, consequently there isn't much about numerous French and Italian makers and barely anything about the Japanese. You can also see a strong bias in how they ascertain quality but all forums have their own blind spots.

[peteyross]

Regarding the heels, I was mainly talking about the Koji Suzuki for Spigola shoes. I agree with you about the English shoe bias on AAAC and Styleforum but I've found some links to Japanese makers buried in one of those stickied threads.

My only experience with non-English high end shoes is Corthay, Lidfort and Sutor Mantellassi and none of them have this heel effect. I guess I'm just wondering if it's a Japanese domestic market thing or if it's a one-off trait at the request of the buyer.

[Matic]

http://www.xihalife.com/u/0/0/8/uploads/large/23324817544f6d3b177a24.jpg

zomfg12345

[Fuuma]

Regarding the heels, I was mainly talking about the Koji Suzuki for Spigola shoes. I agree with you about the English shoe bias on AAAC and Styleforum but I've found some links to Japanese makers buried in one of those stickied threads.

My only experience with non-English high end shoes is Corthay, Lidfort and Sutor Mantellassi and none of them have this heel effect. I guess I'm just wondering if it's a Japanese domestic market thing or if it's a one-off trait at the request of the buyer.

Lidfort? Never heard of it, French or Italian?

Bespoke clients often go to absurd lenght in having something flashy; I've seen white crocodile Corthay shoes with cuban heels...:eek:

You might have a point about the high heels being something anglo-saxon don't do very often though, the shoes tend to be very light and discrete.

[peteyross]

Lidfort is an Italian brand with a couple different levels of production. Strangely, the more expensive line seems uglier and less refined looking. They make some ugly shoes, but some are nice. I think Barneys is the only US retailer of Lidfort at this point. They recently added them their website:

http://www.barneys.com/Shoes/SHOES04,default,sc.html?prefn1=designer&prefv1=Lidfort

I am a fan of these...nice wood grain looking texture in person. http://www.barneys.com/Blucher/10301%2e5235,default,sp.html?cgid=SHOES04&prefn1=designer&prefv1=Lidfort&start=14&sz=1

[Fuuma]

Lidfort is an Italian brand with a couple different levels of production. Strangely, the more expensive line seems uglier and less refined looking. They make some ugly shoes, but some are nice. I think Barneys is the only US retailer of Lidfort at this point. They recently added them their website:

http://www.barneys.com/Shoes/SHOES04,default,sc.html?prefn1=designer&prefv1=Lidfort

I am a fan of these...nice wood grain looking texture in person. http://www.barneys.com/Blucher/10301%2e5235,default,sp.html?cgid=SHOES04&prefn1=designer&prefv1=Lidfort&start=14&sz=1

Thanks for the info. The more expensive and clunkier shoes are probably elaborately stitched using Bentivegna or Norvegese construction, it's a different style I'm not into either but it requires a lot of work to do that, hence pricey shoes. Lattanzi has some offerings in that style that also command quite high prices.

[Matic]

Has anyone seen anything of H?Katsukawa from tokyo? I saw his stuff in the January 2007 Newcomer edition of So-En, but havnt seen anything else since (not that iv searched particularly hard though, its just this thread reminded me of it).

The designers' name is Eiichi Katsukawa, and that's about all I know

about him. It seems the website has only just launched since parts are under construction and there is only one pair of shoes up (with no active BUY button?).

- - - { = hkatsukawafromtokyo.net/home.html

I'v upped the page from the mag (is all in Japanese) - and the link is to an original size image for anyone who wants to get a better look (probably necessary for the smaller pics on the page) so u can do that n even translate if you'v got the skills? The pics show a few pairs of shoes aroudn what looks to be a concept store with sketches for display...

I like the look of the shoes, however they move away from the status quo of this thread a little....

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk16/matic_08/HKATSUKAW.jpg