apartments in tokyo

[ghostdeini]

Heyooooo. I am poking around and trying to see what the going rate is for a 1 BR apartment in tokyo. I'm thinking about renting one for at least a month over the summer while I visit. Ideally, it would be located within walking distance (10 min or less) from a major JR line (yamanote line would be dreamy)... This past summer I stayed in tokiwadai and had to take a private line train to ikebukuro station so I could hop on the yamanote line. it was a pain but completely manageable and I would have no problems doing that again. I would imagine that the further away I am from the "heart" of tokyo, the cheaper an apartment would be, no?

do you think my best bet would be going through craigslist and places like that? I have a feeling that I could get the best bang for the buck if I went through private people rather than a giant agency that collects money on top of whatever I have to pay for the rent and security deposit.

please keep in mind that I have had 0 experience with apartments here in the States, much less one abroad. if any of you have rented an apartment in tokyo or any of japan for that matter, please feel free to share stories of any problems you encountered or advice you can offer.

thanks!

[djrajio]

The going rate for a 1 BR apartment varies but like you've assumed, the closer you are to the "heart" of Tokyo, i.e. the 23 wards, the more expensive it will be. Since I had to go through the process some time ago, I'll can offer some good advice but firstly some questions:

1) What is your visa?

2) Do you/will you have a valid bank account in Japan?

3) What is your time period for living in Japan?

4) What is your budget?

If you don't already know, the process of getting apartment in Japan is a little different. Here, they have a concept of key money which is basically bribe money for your landlord which won't be returned back to you in addition to a certain number of months of rent and despoit money which varies by 1-3 of rent. In addition, there may be maintainence fees. Therefore, its imperative that you read all the fine print, since just moving in to a new apartment may be 2X-3X times more than the monthly rent advertised.

If you don't speak Japanese, you could opt for a real estate company like Ken Corp to help you out, but then you'll also have to fork over a percentage of your rent usually a 1-2 months * 1.05 to the agent. English speaking agents are nortorious for charging higher rates and advertising listing at higher rent prices because they know their foriegn clients can't understand Japanese. My advice if to use a local Japanese agent or forgo an agent entirely and use sites like www.forrent.jp to find the apartment yourself. No one uses craigslist to find apartments in Japan, so just forget about it. I actually did my search myself and saved myself a lot of time and money. Also, if you are working for a foreign company, some have rent subsidy programs which remove your rent before taxes, thus saving you money. My firm also uses a real estate firm to take pictures and does thorough analysis of the apartment before you move in (I recommend you do the same), so later when you move out, we don't get slapped with unnecessary damage costs that weren't your fault; another notorious trick that landlords imploy here.

Also, getting a 1 BR apartment for a single adult is actually fairly unusual. Most people opt for a studio with an integrated kitchen and bathroom. My setup is actually a studio and I know most young adults do the same. Newer apartments are more expensive but I'd recommend you get a new one, since they were built with higher/more stringent requirements regarding earthquake safety.

If you have any other questions, let me know...

[chromesquared]

Dr. Rajio,

Thanks for the detailed analysis of how to go about getting an Apt. in Japan. I was actually thinking about posting a similar question with the hope that you or some of the others over there (mils) would answer as I'll be moving to Yokohama/Kanagawa in a month or so. Also, you mentioned visa status. I'm assuming that many places wont rent to ppl w/ a tourist visa. Is this correct? Initially, I anticipate staying in a gaijin house (or something similar) and scouting out a place on my own once things are more stable. I'm fortunate enough to have some friends and a GF in Kanto so that should be a great help. I'm going to go on a tourist visa and try to find a job teaching English at an Eikaiwa (at this point I'll change the status so long as I can find a Co. that will sponser me). As far as budget goes I'm going to go with around 5 grand to support me until I get said job (fingers crossed). Assuming that I can resist blowing all of my money on clothes and accesories does this seem like enough for rent and food for a few months? Ah, one last thing, I was just curious (if you happen to know) if organic fruits and vegetables are prevalent in average metropolitan area markets? Thanks in advance for any insights you can offer.

N.

[djrajio]

Chrome,

Yes, you're right on your assumption that many places wont rent to ppl w/ a tourist visa. Although, there are "creative" ways to get around this, pm 2000db for example for details...I'm going to assume you won't be in Japan for more than 3 months, so probably a gaijin house or a weekly mansion would be more appropriate. As for finding a job, again your visa will be your biggest problem if you want to work legitimately. And yes, if you can find a company that will sponser you, that would be your best situation; some of my friends tried in the past to get Ekaiwa jobs w/ sponsorship but were denied because they didn't have teaching credentials, I guess its really a case by case situation and I'm not really an expert in teaching jobs unfortunately. Off hand, it might be easier to just do "private" lessons and receive money under the table...5 grand should be sufficient for a few months. Organic foods can be had a farmers markets and special food markets in Tokyo, so you should be fine.

[chromesquared]

Thanks Doc,

I guess I should've made myself more clear. I'll be staying in Japan for at least 2~3 years (so long as I can procure a visa) and if I really like it maybe more. I have teaching creds and a BA in language teaching. I do not, however, have teaching experience so I'm hopeful that I can get a job, but not overly confident. Well, thanks again man. I appreciate getting info from a person that has been through the process.

N.

[djrajio]

Well then in that case, you should have no problem finding a job. Best of luck! BTW its DJ not DR, I'm not a doctor...

[chromesquared]

Well then in that case, you should have a problem finding a job. Best of luck! BTW its DJ not DR, I'm not a doctor...

Duly noted... shit, some English teacher I'll be...

Thanks again man.

N

[englandmj7]

Just out of curiosity, what is the approx. going rate of a studio in a busy area (roppongi, shibura, etc.)....I am sure it varies alot, but what can you get something 'acceptable' for?

[ghostdeini]

wow... I never knew it was so complicated. I was looking for an apartment just as a place to crash while I was on an "extended" vacation there - not to work, just to visit again and shop etc. I suppose it would be cheaper to find a youth hostel or get another Weekly Mansion (is this like a hotel-y place where they give you a card for your room, no kitchen inside? because I stayed at something like that in july).

I would indeed be traveling on a tourist's visa and I prooobably won't have a couple thousand to spend just on lodgings. So... youth hostel good idea or bad? do you know off the top of your head if they have any weird rules or practices at youth hostels there? my mom is japanese and she definitely knows where to look for good deals online so it's not like she'd be going through expedia and that's how we got set up at the Weekly Mansion place... anyway thanks for the great and thorough response!

[djrajio]

It really depends. A good guesstimate is that a decent studio apartment of 20 meters squared that is a few years old should run around 700-1200 dollars a month in central Tokyo, say Minato-ku. I did a quick search on Forrent.jp to get an idea of what prices are nowadays...

I first tried to search for the cheapest apartments available in Minato-ku. The apartment is located in Hiro, which is a popular ex-pat location and is very expensive. The apartment is a one-room + kitchen. Rent is 35,000 yen + 2000 fees. The key/deposit money is 2 months rent, so 70,000 yen + 70,000 yen. The size is 10 meters squared, yes just 10m2. And the apartment was built in 1964, so its very old.

In contrast, a more plausible alterative would be like this apartment in Azabu Juban, the area that I live, though the area is still probably one of the most expensive in Tokyo, if not Japan. The rent per month is 127,000 yen. Key/deposit money is 2 months rent, so 254,000 yen + 254,000 yen. The size is appox 20 meters squared and it was built this year, so new. Also notice that this is actually a weekly mansion rather than an "apartment". What that means is that the location may also offer temporary corporate housing, the tenants may be living for only a couple months, etc... While "apartments", the landlord may require you to sign a lease for at least 2 years+

[englandmj7]

Thanks for the info. Rajio. I guess that isn't outrageous considering my wife and I paid $1300 in LA for a new studio. Then again, it wasn't horribly small. Guess that is the price you pay to shop in Harajuku, eat ramen, and bone hot Japanese girls every day.....bastard.

wow... I never knew it was so complicated. I was looking for an apartment just as a place to crash while I was on an "extended" vacation there - not to work, just to visit again and shop etc. I suppose it would be cheaper to find a youth hostel or get another Weekly Mansion (is this like a hotel-y place where they give you a card for your room, no kitchen inside? because I stayed at something like that in july).

I would indeed be traveling on a tourist's visa and I prooobably won't have a couple thousand to spend just on lodgings. So... youth hostel good idea or bad? do you know off the top of your head if they have any weird rules or practices at youth hostels there? my mom is japanese and she definitely knows where to look for good deals online so it's not like she'd be going through expedia and that's how we got set up at the Weekly Mansion place... anyway thanks for the great and thorough response!

Check out Guess T House for a good hostel in a great location. It is recommended by several people on this board (Rajio first recommended it to me), myself included. It is 50,000 Yen a month ($413). When I was there, there were 3 people, all from different places, teaching English and living full-time in the hostel, in addition to a ton of others staying for 2 days - a week, etc. There were also a couple local Japanese guys living there and working in Tokyo. It is a dorm after all, so the bathroom is communal, etc. but you can get a locker, it is clean, safe, cheap, in an excellent location (Roppongi), and very fun. I loved staying in hostels because you instantly meet some great people and make friends to travel with/hang out with, etc. who already know the area and are more than willing to show you around.

Some hostels do have weird rules/practices (for instance: many have curfews or do not allow alcohol). Guess T is one of the few that isn't way out in the middle of Ueno, and doesn't have restrictions....Amir (who runs the place) is a cool dude to boot. There is a kitchen and a communal area with tables, a TV, etc. If you are there for only 1-2 months I would definitely recommend it. Check it out:

http://tokyohostel.com/english.html

[poly800rock]

will 2nd the guess t house. manager is kind of weird, but met some good people there, amazing area...for price

[ghostdeini]

T

Check out Guess T House for a good hostel in a great location. It is recommended by several people on this board (Rajio first recommended it to me), myself included. It is 50,000 Yen a month ($413). When I was there, there were 3 people, all from different places, teaching English and living full-time in the hostel, in addition to a ton of others staying for 2 days - a week, etc. There were also a couple local Japanese guys living there and working in Tokyo. It is a dorm after all, so the bathroom is communal, etc. but you can get a locker, it is clean, safe, cheap, in an excellent location (Roppongi), and very fun. I loved staying in hostels because you instantly meet some great people and make friends to travel with/hang out with, etc. who already know the area and are more than willing to show you around.

Some hostels do have weird rules/practices (for instance: many have curfews or do not allow alcohol). Guess T is one of the few that isn't way out in the middle of Ueno, and doesn't have restrictions....Amir (who runs the place) is a cool dude to boot. There is a kitchen and a communal area with tables, a TV, etc. If you are there for only 1-2 months I would definitely recommend it. Check it out:

http://tokyohostel.com/english.html

holy crap! I can definitely do $413 a month . this is pretty much exactly the kind of thing I was looking for: close proximity to the "heart" of tokyo and a nearby train station, good reputation, foreigner-friendly, easy-going rules. it's so much easier to go by word-of-mouth rather than scouring google and getting ripped off... just out of curiosity, how many people per room were there at Guess T house? also I don't see internet access listed under "facilities", but was one provided or could you hop onto a nearby unprotected wifi signal?

[englandmj7]

They have a communal computer with a decent-speed connection (it is free to use).....people often plugged the cable into their own computer as the lounge was pretty chill and empty during the day. They didn't have wireless when I was there.

The rooms can hold about 20 people each (at least that is the number of beds they have in them - bunk beds with three layers).....on average, I would say there are about 8-10 people staying in each room, but it depends on what time of year it is, and how lucky you are of course. I was there at different times over the course of a month and at one point our room was almost full, another time there was only about 6 of us. A decent advantage is that if you don't have much money to use for going out, etc. and you are forced to hang out in the hostel most days there are always people there, and if you do have money to blow and want to travel around, etc. there are always people willing to party/come along.....nice either way.

Also, with that many dudes in a room it gets to smellin', so don't expect too much in the way of boning chicks and having a pimping pad. Although it is pretty damn easy to screw girls staying at the hostel since you usually spend most evenings drinking and hanging out with them in a group (the cool ones that is). But yeah, amazing area. Alot of expats, very safe, very nice. Roppongi clubs/bars within 15 minutes walk......

[bnj]

good ol' metropolis

http://metropolis.co.jp/classifieds/biz.asp?action=home&pid=0

just coz craigslist tokyo sucks ass.

so to add to the contrast me and the girlfriend have a 1room in kitano hachioji for about 400 bucks a month

vs

my dj buddy with a smaller one room in shibuya for about 775 a month.

[ghostdeini]

ah okay, that at least gives me a rough idea of what to expect with other youth hostels. I'm thinking that's definitely the way for me. I'll probably be travelling with my girlfriend (and possibly a female friend of hers, kind of mutual though) so it looks like she'll be stuck with the ladies dorm but thanks for pointing out that it's fine to socialize with the ladies until the wee hours.

so with that in mind, i'll be trying to minimize my expenses budget (airfare, lodging, train tickets, food) by buying a ticket for june, because I heard it was cheaper before school gets out in july; picking up groceries and attempting to cook at the hostel's kitchens so we're not dining out for every meal; maybe raising my stamina so I can attempt to walk all over tokyo (yeah right)

there has to be a hostel located somewhere near shibuya or harajuku/aoyama area though... that would seriously cut down on train trips ($$$) because that's where I am mostly interested in at the moment. not to say that i am limiting myself to that particular area, but it's great for shopping

[bnj]

summer is very rough.

i thought i was used to hot weather, being in so cal and all, but summer in tokyo had me wiping sweat away at all times.

[ghostdeini]

yup after the first couple days I learned to walk around with two gigantic bottles of water in my backpack and a sweat rag. my uncle was working in the city and asked us to an impromptu dinner, but we told him that we weren't anywhere near looking presentable, but he said it was fine and he wouldn't take us anywhere fancy.

he took us to the top floor of some building at some ridiculous restaurant... we ended up having an 8 course meal, champagne and all (not sure on the exact number, as I lost count after a while), possibly the finest food I have ever eaten in my life.. and I was wearing shorts, a t-shirt, and sneakers.

[DaBestSpoona]

I sweat like crazy even in the winter in tokyo, I'm so used to nyc weather that I walk around tokyo without a jacket while everyone is rocking the shiny puffy down jackets.

I was looking at apartments prices in gotanda, its close to everything, a 5-6 tatami mat room goes for around 60000-70000 yen a month.

[jooles]

I was looking at apartments prices in gotanda, its close to everything, a 5-6 tatami mat room goes for around 60000-70000 yen a month.

I lived in a 1K that was about 1 minute from Sunshine City for about 140000/month, but shared it. The place was small - the room was maybe 6 mats - but just about brand new and fully furnished. There was no key money, and they rented to me (although I can speak passable Japanese). I think they would rent to gaijin though.

The location was fantastic, and nicer and cheaper than other "gaijin friendly" houses.

I've forgotten the rental agency, but I'll look it up for you if you want.

[seenmy]

good thread,im seriously contemplating making the move out after uni to 'teach english' seems the perfect way to get out to tokyo and get a chance to live there,i was a bit dubious of how much they were paying so good to read here what rent is like,i pay more for a pokey bedsit in brighton than most of the quoted tokyo rents so thats good to hear.anyone on here teaching english care to share any experience about it standard of living etc would be great,

[Kasper]

as a university graduate,you basically have 2 choices, either you get a job through the JET program (a government-sponsored program to bring grads to teach at public schools for 2 or 3 years) or you find a job in a private schools. i honestly don't know that much apart from the JET program apart that it generally pays a little more than at private schools, but you're almost always assigned to schools in the countryside and can't decide where you wanna go so being able to go to Tokyo is really difficult. they usually gives you an apartment for really cheap so you end up with more disposable income. but then again, you're usually stuck in nowhere japan.

as for private school, you either have the choice of getting a job in Advance from the 4-5 big schools. should be pretty easy i think and they usually arrange pretty much everything for you (transport, apartment etc). you have more choice is deciding where to go and the job is really easy.

second option is to take a working holiday visa and do everything yourself. before going to college, i took a gap year and ended up taking a WHV and stayed in Japan for 6 months (was in Nagoya though) teaching english and french. the good thing going this way is that there's much more flexibility as you can choose want to want to do (you can decide to work only part time, or you can move to a different city etc...). it's really easy to find a job in Tokyo especially if you already have a visa, so i wouldn't worry about that. pay is usually 3000 yen an hour for part time work (some firms will pay a little less or more) and 250 000 for full time which is around 25-35 hours a week depending on the company. the downside of going this way is you have to set up everything yourself, which can be hard if you don't know anyone and/or don't speak japanese. as for standard of living, expect to pay maybe 110 000-150 000 yen a month for living expenses if you are reasonable (rent, utilities, food, transportation etc), the rest is disposable income. you can cut down that amount if you live further away from central tokyo, is carefull about food and utilities cost (it's really fucking expensive there) etc. when i did it, i was only 19/20 so i thought the money was great, right now, i think it would be pretty tight, but i guess that all depends on the person. anyway, that's what i can think of right now, don't hesitate if you have further questions.

[hysteric]

theres some great info in this thread thanks alot, I would like to know how is it for a white person that doesnt speak a word of japanese to find a job. Is your only option teaching english? is it a struggle to set everything up for your moving there with or without the english teaching company(rent,visa,job etc). Also would you reccomend it? did you enjoy the experience? thanks alot