Ann-Sofie Back Atelje and BACK by Ann-Sofie Back Spring/Summer 2012

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I was instructed by a mod to post my review of the collection:

Just as other designers are scaling up, Ann-Sofie Back goes the opposite direction and pares things down. Though her position as Cheap Monday’s creative director is about as global and mainstream as any designer could ever dream, Back has refused to develop her namesake lines any faster than necessary. While others embraced spring as a raison d’être to effusively unload their palettes all over the runway, Back returned to the rigorous exercises in cut and shape that have made her a go-to designer for smart clothes that don’t feel compelled to wear their wit on their (sheer and textured and tailored) sleeves. In past seasons, the divide between her clothes-cum-art Atelje label and her wearable BACK line have left some customers feeling a little cheated with ready-to-wear pieces that don’t quite live up to the hype that her runway designs elicit. But Back has resolved that difference, treating BACK not as a simplification or reduction of her Atelje work, but as an extension of them into the territory of real world clothing.

Opening with painfully precise pieces, most often in silk organza, Back started on a highly intellectual bent, exploring the possibilities of moving a line here, extending a seam there. But as the shapes softened with subsequent exits the smart sense of chic remained: the impossible geometry of a purely runway look informed beautifully micro-pleated blouses while severe lines gradually opened up into jersey dresses every bit as couture-inspired as they are street-ready. It’s easy to see why skeptics dub Back’s work “unprettyâ€, but the skinny belts that adorned her separates and dresses managed to accomplish a fashion trifecta: they’re flattering for real women, absolutely on trend for the season, and punctuate silhouettes that would otherwise be much harder to wear. Not that Back would ever design for women who don’t work as hard as herself; her clientele understands that sometimes the next big thing is really about taking what you already have and applying a small, but calculated change for an effortlessly new look.

All images courtesy of Coute Que Coute

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[Desi]

One of my top 5 shows from London Fashion Week. She was on trend with those transparent heels.