How Do they Make that "Premium" look?

[zyphon]

Obviously there are hundreds of small nuances that make premium jeans what they are, but there are a few distinguishing factors that I have noticed on all Premium jeans. I am wondering what exactly creates these looks, as in, what process. I will use two drasticly different jeans as examples in this question, so you know what I'm talking about.

First are a pair of Seven jeans:

And next are these Old Navy jeans:

First, the easiest to describe is probably the color of the jeans. As with the Sevens, and so many other premium jeans, they seem to have much richer a much richer and deeper color of blue. Even the faded sections seem more vibrant. Is it because they dye it more times, or is it simply in the choice of dye color? Do they use an entirely differnt process?

Second, on the same topic, all premium jeans seem to have very noticable "squares," "scratches," or faint lines running vertically and horizontally, that other jeans do not have. They are textured lines that are noticable on all high-end denim, no matter the color or wash. What are they called? How do they make them? Is it as a result of being ring-spun, or the dyeing process (or finishing), or is it simply the width of the white warp channels? Does anyone know what I'm talking about?

I'll give a varying example, just in case:

These Old Navy jeans seem to have a little bit of the vertical/horizontal texture, but its not nearly as noticable as the Sevens. Again, the color is not quite as deep or vibrant, as well.

Lastly, Less expensive jeans often have whiskers, but they are very different from those on premium jeans. What do they do differently? They just seem much more 3 Dimensional.

Comparison:

Old Navy

Earnest Sewn

Thanks in advance for the insight!

_aaron

[greentalks43]

More effort is put into 'premium' jeans. But the reason why the washes on the higher priced jeans looks better is because I believe they use a mannequin to give it that look of really being worn instead of the look that you did it on your floor with some sandpaper or something.

"Patience, both we and our words are overproduced by influence"

[zyphon]

No one has any insight??? I read other threads on here with some crazy technical knowledge. The main head scratcher has been how they make the "squares" i described above...

[6MT]

the reason why these jeans is so expensive is because th fabric might be alightly better, and most of these jeans were manufacture domestically in the US, where the labos are alot more expensive compare to over sea, not to mention all the parts on the jeans have shipping calculated into the cost, accumulate all these factors, the jeans it self have become expensive all of the sudden, not that they are any better than old navy or Banana republic, it's just everything was done domestically.

there is another eason why these jeans are so much more expensive, when they whole sale it, they just sale for alot higher pric e not that there is anything special about them. for instance, the seven jeans with swarovski crytal on the back, only cost less than a dollar to put on ( goods and labor).

i hope these explain a little about the whol denim game.

[jdavis]

Alternating warp/weft yarn sizing in a repeating sequence makes the 'squares' you refer to.

Just as alternating only warp yarn sizing while keeping the weft constant would give the appearance of vertical lines - using ringspun yarns of course, since they have considerably more twist and texture than the cheaper open-end variety. Also known as 'cross-hatch' denim.

Still, denim doesn't have to be cross-hatch to be 'premium' at all. Even the word 'premium' isn't being used as much anymore now. The prps that i'm bumming around in on my day off aren't crosshatch denim at all, but their denim is without question more than fair [although on a personal note i have lots of other criticisms on it], as would be any LVC denim that has been produced to date.

And as always, better materials lead to a better finished product, which is important to remember with any 'premium' piece. So would Seven use better dyes and yarns than Old Navy - yeah they really would. And would Earnest Sewn whiskering look better than those on an H&M jean - pretty much.

Premium Look = Premium Materials & Finishing

As well, premium finishing includes the inside of the garment as well. If you turned inside-out the same pair of Old Navy jeans from above, they'd be considerably less well-finished when compared with the ladies Earnest Sewns.

Edited by jdavis on Jan 10, 2006 at 12:15 PM

Edited by jdavis on Jan 10, 2006 at 12:22 PM

[Geowu]

I'm not familiar with those brands, probably Sevens use different dyes, and a higher amount of dips. Old Navy probably uses indigo + sulphur dyes? probably very few dips. The "square lines" seem to appear on many ringring denim, especially the pre-faded ones and Italian denim. Maybe they alternate weft/warp sizing. The denim making process involves lots of variables which can make a cheap or quality outcome. It is very complex. The fading process can be extremely different from one brand to another as well, if it is hand-made or machine made, what kind of enzymes or product they use, the time it takes, etc. A better result takes more time and money, although famous brands tend to overprice a lot, the quality generally goes together with the price.

[sbbbjm]

one thing i've always noticed about designer jeans is they usually have better back pockets. they usually look like they have been sewn own much more neatly, and when you wash and dry them the stitching doesn't 'buckle' --

[wild_whiskey]

wow that fit model needs to go a size down on the Sevens. They should be tighter than that.

[Sauce]

Interesting about the square things and using variated weft threads. I always how that is created. Although this seems to be only on italian brand jeans like Diesel or Miss Sixty or Energie as far as i noticed.

[zyphon]

Quote:

Interesting about the square things and using variated weft threads. I always how that is created. Although this seems to be only on italian brand jeans like Diesel or Miss Sixty or Energie as far as i noticed.

--- Original message by Sauce on Jan 10, 2006 03:12 PM

Maybe we're thinking of something different... The thing I've noticed is fairly visable on most high end jeans, even on the Seven jeans above. They are even noticable to a small extent on the Second pair of Old Navy jeans above. Are we talking about the same thing?

Edited by zyphon on Jan 10, 2006 at 07:17 PM

[jdavis]

What I meant to say was that the crosshatch 'square' effect results from the alternating of BOTH warp AND weft yarns sizes by the SAME sequence, creating highs and lows at fixed intervals.

On the the pictured Old Navy jeans the effect would be less pronounced as a lower grade of yarns would be used. But naturally, the better the materials the better the effect would look -like using ringring instead of open-end yarns.

Edited by jdavis on Jan 11, 2006 at 09:43 AM

[zyphon]

Gotcha. Thanks a bunch for bringing light to this question!