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Top 5 Post-Couture Designers

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Now that Saint Laurent is gone and taking with him the (arguably) most consistent vision for couture and prêt-à-porter in the last quarter century, who are the most important (not necessarily favorite) designers of the post-couture era?

Slimane? Browne? Ford? Simons? Margiela? Yamamoto?

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If going by importance...(in no order)

Lagerfeld

Yamamoto

Elbaz

Simons

Galliano

dont think i would put Tom Ford in there ... he is no longer a fashion designer. His Tom Ford line is just a seasonal wardrobe. Browne is too niche and limited to menswear as far as his signature tailoring goes, even if his BF stuff has womens. Margiela might be up there, he's got the technical ability...but don't think he's influential as any of the above 5...Slimane's carved his own legacy for the late 90's/early 00's but that's in the past and will have to see his next venture to see if he can continue something good...

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gaultier- king of kamp, js, galliano, mundane--- all sucking his cock

marcjacobs- every 15 year old girls 'favorite' designer for a fucking reason.

westwood- I hate her guts but the only human being to correctly put punx on the runway

thom browne

nicolas ghesquiere

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oh and ralph lauren.

I am stealing from ythe sartorialist but it's spot on=

"- Few designers have ever created such a complete world of style so successfully and across so many various categories. His ability to do that is remarkable. "

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kawakuboooooo+watanabeeeeee

mcqueen

raf

westwood

issey miyake

+helmut lang & jil sander & dries

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oh and ralph lauren.

I am stealing from ythe sartorialist but it's spot on=

"- Few designers have ever created such a complete world of style so successfully and across so many various categories. His ability to do that is remarkable. "

me wear fubu???????? man listen, that's like the marlboro man smoking a winston!!!!!1!

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Tags are decieving.

Anyways

Gaultier

Ghesquiere

Simons

Castiglioni

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kawakuboooooo+watanabeeeeee

mcqueen

raf

westwood

issey miyake

+helmut lang & jil sander & dries

This comes closes to what I'd say, I'd leave Dries Van Noten out and put Margiela in for sure.

I'd probably say McQueen/Galliano/Gaultier as one.

Also I'd like to add that everyone excluding Miyake hasn't got a fucking clue.

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BAPE

Crooks & Castles

The Hundreds

Ice Cream

Supreme

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the problem with including Miyake is it hasn't really been "Miyake" for a while...unlike Kawakubo or Yamamoto. Naoki Takizawa was pretty good, the design team holding it down now puts out solid staples still, but it's all stuff that was originated by Issey decades ago so don't know if it's really relevant in the context of modern fashion design. Unlike Elbaz or Simons who pretty much hold most of the sway over directional womenswear and menswear season in season out.

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oh and ralph lauren.

I am stealing from ythe sartorialist but it's spot on=

"- Few designers have ever created such a complete world of style so successfully and across so many various categories. His ability to do that is remarkable. "

+1 on this. Design vs. "clothing" discussions aside, Lauren and Armani are probably the two biggest figures in all of clothing today. Maybe throw Lagerfeld in and you have the top 3.

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something like

vivienne

issey

yohji

martin

rei

also

john.... (dior addict 4 ever)

also

Ghesquiere is so not...

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The thing is that Ghesquière is on point, every season, in terms of trends and just leading the pack with really strong silhouettes and highly covetable stuff. I think a lot of the love that he gets isn't in terms of his contribution to fashion as a whole, but because he creates highly sought-after/talked-about pieces every season and has most of the editors out there hanging off his every word.

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ghesquiere is overrated

his designs strike me as cold and stiff...architecturally speaking they're beautiful but somehow it does not strike any nerve in me.

and his menswear is a non factor its just lame basics.

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The thing is that Ghesquière is on point, every season, in terms of trends and just leading the pack with really strong silhouettes and highly covetable stuff. I think a lot of the love that he gets isn't in terms of his contribution to fashion as a whole, but because he creates highly sought-after/talked-about pieces every season and has most of the editors out there hanging off his every word.

Ghesquière is obviously talented but a lot of the talk about him leading the trend has to do with Vogue (US) riding his dick and saying: here's Qhesquière; he's leading the trends this season.

Should I interpret post-couture as designers who integrate couture-like techniques in their RTW or just post YSL and the other couture masters?

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The latter. Also, some great quotes about YSL ripped from the NYTimes blog...

Jack Lang, former French Minister of Culture

“There is a before and after Yves Saint Laurent.”

Pierre Bergé

“Chanel gave women freedom. Yves Saint Laurent gave them power.”

François Lesage

“I have never known a designer who would give so much thought to something when it was proposed to him. It is a great grief for me.”

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Hmm, in no particular order:

Gaultier

Margiela

Helmut Lang

Yamamoto

Kawakubo

Maybe also Prada, McQueen, Versace and Largerfeld (is he post though, from the same era as YSL?)

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Judging by recent work:

Elbaz

Simons

McQueen

Tao

Watanabe

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I think designers with a unified vision and definable aesthetic should be the only ones under consideration.

And I hate galliano, so fuck him.

No order:

Yamamoto

Kawakubo

Helmut Lang

Jil Sander

Margeila

I hate having such a stodgy and obvious list, but sadly, I can't really justify throwing anyone else up there due to inconsitancies. McQueen is obviously great, and I loved his work for givenchy (which apparently isnt the norm) but I can't include him since he's had some brutal years, and I cant' say I could instantly assign a piece to him due to a unifying definition. I'm not familiar with Miyake. Lagerfeld is hell. Raf is great but I'm not sure I see the timelessness of his work like I do with the others. Much of that may be due to the fact that he is still in a period of innovation, while the others I listed are either done design entirely, or are in a comfortable creative zone. I do love his work for Jil Sander womans line.

yeah.

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what do you mean by "post-couture"? i assume you mean people who've mastered ready to wear, but i think post-couture should carry some connotation of canonical designers who were never particularly attached to historically couture houses like dior or chanel (ie: lagerfeld should be excluded!)

the term also makes me think of something maybe "post-post-couture"... certain fashion "outsiders" who have gained noteriety and credibility that are almost completely unassociated, like rag and bone or ksubi

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I typed a big long post about "post-couture" and historical relevance and shit, but I just deleted it because I'm about to go eat food.

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I think designers with a unified vision and definable aesthetic should be the only ones under consideration.

And I hate galliano, so fuck him.

No order:

Yamamoto

Kawakubo

Helmut Lang

Jil Sander

Margeila

you know, seeing Raf's work for JS women's now makes me miss the real JS...i mean there's a certain validity to what he did with the dresses and what not this season, but how un-JS is that. As I said, i always pictured JS as uniform wear for a stoic, powerful woman, like the German chancellor woman she now dresses....now you have floaty dresses teenage girls can relate to and lust after. I dunno...

and hate Galliano for his theatrics, personality, whatever, can't deny he is a master of cutting.

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yeah i also have not really liked raf for jil, and also raf post-raf for jil. and anyway i think galliano>gaultier.

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yeah seeing how Raf's own line has evolved since he hopped on the JS gig has been an interesting development to say the least...in the past 5 or so years i liked the F/W 05 'history of my world' collection the best. Sunglasses, backpacks and collabs with Fred Perry...ah well if i was in his shoes don't know if i would have been able to resist, easy to judge from a distance.

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Olivier Theyskens

Felipe Oliveira Baptista

Dries Van Noten

Marjan Pejoski

Preen

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^ preen's womenswear is sooooooooo underrated...always puts out a consistant collection with interesting silhouettes, fabrics...

i think raf's work for jil sander is pretty good actually, especially the outerwear...

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ghesquiere does not deserve his hype. seriously... all of his "trademarks" and the things people hold him in such high regard for are absolute rehashes of concepts developed by cristobal over 50+ years ago.

anyway I guess I'd say...

the CDG designers

mcqueen

miyake

lang

yohji

+chayalan+margiela+westwood+lists make me nervous o:

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Guest binaural
BAPE

Crooks & Castles

The Hundreds

Ice Cream

Supreme

bwahahaha! :)

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