Rugged seams

[Geowu]

The image above shows two worn jeans, one with smooth seams and another with rugged seams.

About this phenomenon, how can one create it or avoid it, control it?

Is it inherent to the type of jeans (fabric, seams), related to sanforization, stitching or washes?

[Ziddy]

It seems to me that the "rugged" seams have the misfortune of the area between the lines of stitching raising up (similar to tape bunching up if you don't lay it down flat). I don't know why this happens, though, but it seems like many jeans come that way (though comparing the pictures I vastly prefer the "smooth" one).

[ringring]

Shrinkage will cause the peaks and troughs that characterise the seams in your 'rugged' photo. The different rates of shrinkage of the denim and stitch yarns causes the seams to crinkle up.

Shrinkage is caused by a combination of things. The denim (sanforized, stabilised or not), the use of cotton or polyester thread, if the garment has been washed or not.

Personally I really like that effect.

The first photo's seams lie flat because of the lack of shrinkage before abrasion (wear) has taken place. No 'peaks and troughs' have been created, so the wear on the seams is flat.

A good example of this phenomenon is hem wear. If you wear your jeans dry, there's very little shrinkage on the hem, so there's very little roping effect - hence 'flatter' worn hems. However if you wear your jeans after a one-wash, you'll usually create far more contrasting 'roping' marks on the hems.

[Geowu]

thanks, your explanation is most useful.

supposing I buy a studio d'artisan which comes to me raw and unsanforized, is it the only way to get the smooth effect to never wash them, at least until the wear is set?

[ringring]

Yes.

Although with the SDs some shrinkage will occur due to sweat, humidity etc.

[Geowu]

thanks. so if I understood correctly both the unsanforized fabric and the 100% cotton yarn used in the stitching maximize the 'rugged' effect, while sanforization and synthetic stitching minimize it?

[Geowu]

double post. *sorry*

Edited by Geowu on Oct 3, 2005 at 08:04 AM

[ringring]

Yes. The tension setting of the sewing machine will also play a part in puckering, but for jeans, the tension isn't usually an issue.

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