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Jil Sander S/S 08


Servo2000

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this color palette is giving me all kinds of pleasure. these cuts are turning me on in a heteromaniacal way. and i wish i was a woman so i could wear things that are so light and... pretty.

i usually scratch my head at jil sander womenswear, especially recently. this i can totally get with.

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this color palette is giving me all kinds of pleasure. these cuts are turning me on in a heteromaniacal way. and i wish i was a woman so i could wear things that are so light and... pretty.

i usually scratch my head at jil sander womenswear, especially recently. this i can totally get with.

You know what a fan of severity I am, so I found Raf's earlier work for Jil satisfying to my aesthetic sense but not necessarily to my actual desires. This is definitely Raf coming into his own as far as designing for women goes. The usual Raf high-points are there: interesting cuts, and great colors, but the addition of an element of airiness to it really takes this to a whole new level. Easily the best Sander collection thus far.

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my personal feeling is that i was evaluating the earlier jil sander collections from a very disingenuous point, because i was appreciating the severity of the aesthetic without considering whether or not applying that look to womenswear was 'fitting', or 'correct', or even an honest attempt at truly designing -FOR- women, rather than designing

-AROUND- them.

sort of like dressing a woman in slightly altered menswear, tossing in the usual reference points for modern womenswear, and calling it a fully realized collection... wheras, like you've stated, this is truly a collection that seems to be designed with

femininity in mind, without losing any of the sander edge.

that element of air combined with the somewhat obtuse cutting and draping [blazers

cropped at the clavicle?!] is really, really alluring. and not only to weird fashion-obsessed boys, but in my estimation, to fashion-forward women as well.

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my personal feeling is that i was evaluating the earlier jil sander collections from a very disingenuous point, because i was appreciating the severity of the aesthetic without considering whether or not applying that look to womenswear was 'fitting', or 'correct', or even an honest attempt at truly designing -FOR- women, rather than designing

-AROUND- them.

Exactly. In retrospect, I feel there's almost an element of sexism to Rafs' earlier Jil Sander work in the manner he approached designing for women. It comes through both in the incredibly clinical approach to the clothing as well as in the result: an imposed severity. While it makes sense in menswear what with the history of military influences in clothing, doing the same for women almost seems masochistic.

I don't say this to decry some insult Raf has perpetrated or even that it's necessarily a bad thing, I just feel that the designs, in retrospect, are not really even for women in a certain sense. I'm just typing as I'm thinking, so take this with a grain of salt.

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youre right-- i wouldnt go so far as to call it sexist, because there is definitely a thread in womenswear history that follows the same principles, but it is definitely a masochistic history that can sort of be traced back through to times when fashion

meant nothing and function + chastity meant everything.

now, i've got to say that i'm a pervert. i don't buy into the weird saying that "gay men design women's clothing to make women look ridiculous". my references for womenswear are tits and ass. honestly. but not the t&a of some sort of over-the-top euro design, but i need women's clothing to play up the fact that inside of the fabric there is the flesh of a lady. this collection totally exudes the type of intelligently feminine qualities that get me hard. literally and figuratively.

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