AlientoyWorkmachine

Kid took a photo of me on pano mode. Ues/Tezo/Full Count

Pizza shaped arcs would be simultaneously silly and also might be a tipping point for me, because in the end, pants are funny. Even funnier is an interest in pants. Sometimes I wish my exquisitely made pants with such serious work put into them were a little bit more funny. Pizza and pants. Funny words. Amazing inventions. Taken for granted too often. Pants should nod to pizza. and yea @beautiful_FrEaK I think we talk about Japan b/c there's enough in Japan to sustain these businesses but outside of it we're just about the only ones in the world with the level of interest jeans where we are upset if thread isn't cotton or a jacket has handwarmer pockets or pick whatever counterintuitive detail you prefer 😃

That's so cool! And what a killer looking fam.

Thanks for this. The pizza tab! I don’t equate Japan with being a mecca in anything other than obsessing over details that I personally enjoy. When it comes to construction itself I don’t think they’re inherently better, I’ll confidently say that some of my earlier jeans from Raleigh (nc, usa workshop) and Companion (Barcelona workshop) were made every bit as well as just about anything I’ve ever gotten from Japan and in some cases notably better. I moved away from those brands because of things like pattern, details (including no cotton thread), lack of unsanforized options, and cost. Japanese brands tend to solve all of those issues. WOM seems to solve most of those issues, which is cool to see. If an American brand offered an unsanforized denim from proximity or Vidalia mills with a good pattern and cotton thread and classic details at something like a comparable cost (maybe I’d pay 10 to 20% more?) to Japan I’d love to try, for instance. But I haven’t seen it.

I don't have my pair handy but I've got this pair in a size 30, and I tend to wear 30. If anything, it's got a little give. If you normally wear 31's, I bet it will be fine - there's a chance FC missed on this pair though. In my experience they're not the most consistent in manufacturing (for instance, I have 0105 in the 11 oz denim in size 29 which fits a touch more loosely at the waist than my 30's in the 13 oz denim).

Some detail shots and a fit pic of the linen jeans. These things are so comfortable it almost feels wrong. Fabric has few, but significant neps. In general it’s a bit more irregular than the denim I’m used to wearing but nothing like those brands that make it a point. Looks like it was a bit tough to weave. Linen pocket bags are a nice touch. Worn about 4 days and like linen does the creases set quickly. Raised pocket seams are interesting. Happy with this pick up. Jacket pictures later, I don’t have it with me on this trip.

@julian-wolf30! also, now that I’ve worn these for a few hours these things have got some drape. I might have to take back that assessment of the trim seat ha. I definitely could have gone 30, but I’m happy taking the loose path here. Also fwiw my other 0105 pairs are 30, I just find the super smooth to run large.

I got these about 36 hours after the shipping notice was sent. In Michigan. From Japan. I’m not much one for write ups or anything but I will say these are highly competitive with the fullcount super smooth denim for maybe the best breezy feeling summer jeans. Actually, they probably feel better. I sized up one - to a 31 -and I’m glad I did because the seat is slightly trim even if the waist isn’t. If I’d gone 30, I think they’d have fit more like my FW 51’s, which is fine, but for linen pants I wanted more of a roomy anti-fit. My 31 fits about the same, slightly trimmer leg - than my FC’s at 29. No clue how these things will fade but pants that feel like linen and look like jeans - I’m sold! The jacket is nice too - but (and I knew this going in) is longer than a typical type 1 both in torso and in the arms. In a way I think this is more versatile, but maybe not what some people would want. I think it will wear nicely - it’s like a French worker’s jacket in cut with type 1 detailing and the drape of linen. I’ll try to get pics up next week but I’m headed out of town today for a bit.

Thanks! It's a good question - but I very much hope the focus would still be on the workers. If it wasn't, I'd have to take a minute to reflect on my priorities with my work. (Well that, and if I didn't have a pictures of people my editor would have been upset). I did make some pictures of looms, worn denim displays etc, but they just bore me, so I didn't take the time to finish them. I guess what I meant by that is that, for this forum, the post might lack the sort of niche information that might be appreciated. While I like the denim stuff, I don't and never much have found the technical stuff all that interesting - it wouldn't be interesting without the people who make it or wear it!

Man it looks like a nice jacket but phew is that a pricey one!

@NilsLW thanks. It’s maybe not my favorite set but given I had 30 minutes to work it’s okay. Some of these are a little too quickly finished maybe but I’m not sending them off for a job. There was more than I remembered when I went into the archive hence the post today.

ah - perfect. Somehow it didn't come up in search - I think because I was focusing on white oak.

I've been going through my archives lately with an eye towards photographs of workers. In 2016 I got - as my digital records indicate - 30 minutes on the famed White Oak facility floor. 8:35 - 9:05 AM. It was before I knew much about denim, and to be honest - visiting this spot was what led me to this place on the forum. When I was there, I was focused on the people and what they were doing. Not the looms, nor the displays of vintage denim. I wouldn't have even known to look at what was interesting from a technical perspective. I look back on the archive of this job and hope these folks landed on their feet but I don't know. I'm still sore that this place shut down, even though my connection to it was just this short visit. I'm grateful the workers gave me a few seconds of their time while they were juggling the multiple machines that made the floor shake. What I mostly remember was just lamenting I only had thirty minutes on the floor, it seemed that this place warranted so much more time if I wanted to due the least bit of justice to photographing the people and the space. Unfortunately I can't find my notebook from the time, which gave me the information of these people's names and more. Anyways, here are a few pictures to share from one of the later months that this facility was in operation. These are some of the awesome people that made some of the best denim that I hope a few of you are wearing. I figured starting a thread here for anything White Oak related could be suitable?

Decided to give it a go, because linen. Will report when they land.

I’ll second that - though only because mine aren’t worth posting at this point - hasn’t even gotten it’s first wash. It’s unfortunately taken a back seat to my OA jacket at the moment!

The novelty of these is more tempting to me than it should be, but linen jeans is something I’ve wished for many times. I also wouldn't be mad if people chimed in about how they found UES to fit. Sizing to me looks not on the small side for the jacket or the jeans.

Just for fun - I had enough walnuts fall early in the season for a dye batch. An old cream ladywhite T on top, cheap white Muji slub tee on the bottom. Ladywhite t dyed overnight, Muji T just about an hour. Both are a bit darker in reality.

@julian-wolf do you forage + make your own dyes or buy materials? I've been dyeing with the walnuts in my backyard for awhile, but thinking of foraging some sumac berries this fall. I've also got baptisia tinctoria in my native garden (a "false" indigo, or yellow wild indigo), but I can't find any recipes for it even though it's been used as an indigo dye, albeit is considered an inferior one - still it could be cool to dye something light blue off of it if I could figure it out.

That’s a nice solution. Maybe I’m an outlier - I’ve never once had an issue with the standard pins. Maybe that’s due to the snug waist on my 129s but on my 900 jackets (x2) I’ve not had an issue either. I guess if it ever does come up I’ll think about this method.

OA/Tezo/Fw ‘51s/Birks and best of all this beautiful new bag c/o Duke here. I’ve had the same nylon shoulder bag I got free at a photo convention in college for about 20 years now. I needed something special to replace it and found it.

Great fit IMO

When in doubt just email shop for photos of measurements with measuring tape. Then you know the method of measuring, and you know how you read the measuring tape (a shop’s 39 cm waist may, in a photo, be something you’d consider 40 cm, for instance). It’s not perfect but it’s about as close as you can get without trying on. Also, sometimes places make typos.

I also picked up a few awhile back - a few undyed annd a nibi-iro Henley and was pleased enough to pick up a few more. More than probably anything I wear regularly my t shirt stock is old anjd wearing thin. So now awaiting a few indigo designs too. I hope they get the 170cm long sleeve Henley back in some time. But yes - they’re nice shirts.

Careful with going smaller with jackets esp if you have broad shoulders/chest - this is the place you can’t really be flexible with sizing. Length shrinkage tends to stay shrunk. Sleeves tend to come in even a bit shorter once creases set it. In my experience WH denim - even one wash - tends to shrink up a bit over multiple washes, even cold ones. I’ve got a couple of lined jackets (not WH) - I haven’t sized differently because of the lining - and any lining shrinkage has been in line with the denim and not affected anything.

Ooe/WH1003xx 1946