AlientoyWorkmachine

I'm of the mentality that the fit should come first (unless you're going for the loose sort of anti fit thing, which is great, and then a cm here and there doesn't much matter). But it's really no fun to size up for the thighs/top block and then have a waist that's sloppy...especially if you're looking to dress them up sometimes. By measurements, the 714 would work for me, but they'd still cut it close and I've avoided them for that reason (that and I have enough). The idea of dressing them up or down is very likely just because you've seen them styled that way because of the preferences of Hayashi-san. They're blue jeans and like @yung_flynn said other brands will work just fine for this - it's more the fit and the minimal detailing that makes them suitable, not anything particular about Resolute. I'd start with your hopeful top block measurements for a given waist size and see where that gets you brand wise. Another brand that is often style more Ivy is Boncoura - their XX fit might work (not war model but still repro). I have to plug the Freewheelers '51 here also - it's pretty affordable from Japan, takes well to washing, and has a generous but still more refined silhouette. The stitching will last you longer than WH/Denime too, if that matters. They have a '47 too, but it sounds like the '51 might actually work better for what you want.

@YourArsenal is there a reason you're set on Resolute? Nothing against them but they tend to run slim, and if you're looking for a WWII model you've got other options, with what sounds like cuts that might be a little more suited to what you're looking at in a given waist size.

Cottle/Sugar Cane/Full Count

Mister Freedom / OA / Tender Just recently turned 40, I think I’m looking a little more tired. But feeling pretty good.

Not the same pair, but my 601xx 1951 - which is the same denim - has not noticeably shrunken after washes other than the waist which stretches out. It’s a bit of a looser weave than some other denims. I tend to be a 30 and my FW are on the slightly more generous side of the 30’s I own.

Perfect sweatshirt for your type 2

Bears went back to normal prices some time ago. Not sure what it was, but I picked up my black ones for like 185 USD including shipping. As to OP's question, not sure there's a best place to order from - lots of these shops have similar service and FC isn't as hard to track down as some brands.

I recently broke out my black pair of 0105. I take a 30 in most brands at this point and I found the 30 to be just a little more snug on day one than the others, but on day 2 wasn’t feeling that any more. I do on occasion wear a 29 (my WH 1003xx are 29 and the waist feels like this FC 30) but I wouldn’t size down. Because it’s a full cut it would be fine but the waist wouldn’t be fun. If there’s doubt email Bears to confirm measurements.

Stupidly warm day here for late February. So much so that a jacket was optional, and a lined jacket even with a t shirt was too much. So I pulled out this old thing that doesn’t see so much wear lately, but it’s still coming along okay.

For what it's worth, I think the idea of trying to find the truest repro of any given model is sort of a journey into the abyss. Different details matter more to different makers and the emphasis may be in different places. The cut of a single pair varied in any given year they were made, and different makers can have true vintage pairs of a given model made on the same day and still extrapolate a pattern that would yield different fits for different sizes. It's one of those the sum of the parts is greater than the whole sorts of things - if you drill down deep enough you will find inconsistencies in just about any of the best ones out there (again, where you find them is dependent on what your own biases are), and at that point you're missing the forest for the trees. If one of the trusted brands releases a model that is a direct repro I am going to trust that the of course it will have their own spin on it, but they are being faithful to it in all the ways that matter most to them. The make or break - I would think - is whether or not you like the fit - that matters a lot more than a V stitch.

It’s actually a great suggestion because I don’t know what I’m missing with what I don’t have, and I am definitely curious about what FW does best even if it’s not my normal sort of thing. So the insight is exactly the sort I was hoping for. But it would be the most expensive item of clothing I’d ever bought - or that I even own - outstripping a wonderful Inis Meain cashmere and merino cardigan (which is quite similar but lighter) that I was gifted some time ago. Perhaps at another stage in life…if they ever release it again.

Haha I’m a fan, but more a fan of my wife I do admit. This definitely would qualify as a “discussion” purchase and I strive to keep those to a minimum.

I love that thing but definitely a notch or two too rich of a purchase for an on a whim thing like this.

@julian-wolf Interesting stuff, but you've got a sympathizer here. I enjoy repro stuff but have always had a soft spot for, for lack of a better term, less conventional items to mix in. Why I've always been a big fan of Tender. Funny enough, I've been dressing this way for a good long while now and one of the roads it has led me down is a pretty strong aversion to button down shirts - which I've more or less abandoned since 2018. While I enjoy repro cuts and details I have no interest in looking "Western" (at least in the American sense), really at all. A button down with jeans is just generally not my thing. I still have a few solid old Pendleton wool shirts that are nice enough and come out if they're really needed (and I'll try to avoid the jeans if so). So I am a big fan of knits of all kinds, and generally find ways to make up for my avoidance of the collar depending on the occasion. That said, yes, the knits can be susceptible to such things which is why I have a stable of sweatshirts (no sufu brands here) that I'm in for more active times. If it's chilly, paired with merino base you get both worlds of warmth and avoiding the headache of something really nice getting too fouled up - that's the general solution I've had. The Achilles Heel thing is interesting to me, I've certainly got a few pieces that are louder in presentation than the jeans, but I do appreciate that on the jeans it's sort of only "if you know you know" sort of detail.

I have a good friend passing through Kyoto next week and they want to stop by Hoosier. I’m out of the loop but it’s a hard opportunity to pass up to grab anything - any favorite recent items I should have them scope for - anything the FW fan should really look at? My collection isn’t quite small but it’s all denim. If it’s the right thing I’ll probably email Seichiiro to check stock and hold size. This is squarely an I don’t need anything moment, but hard to pass up.

@julian-wolf I’m happy you’ve been putting wear in your Achilles Heel - how are you liking them? I’m enjoying mine but they’re more like a specialty pair for me at the moment. They’re probably the pair I have I most want to see thrashed and will take the longest to get there. I’m pretty committed to my FW 51’s at least through May, and by then I’ll probably opt for a lighter/looser pair like my TCB ‘20s or my FC 0105 for the summer.

That’s a member requirement for this forum. Don’t be too tough on yourself.

Rare non denim day. Inis Meain/Cottle/Tender/Samurai - and blundstones for the mud.

These are probably my size, but I'm not interested. But if I were, especially for something high priced I would definitely want measurements, not guesstimates, fwiw.

happy birthday! To you both!

There’s very possibly a discrepancy in the way of measuring the thighs between TCB and FW. I’ve got a pair of black 30’s in size 31 from TCB. I sized up for a loose fit, and they are loose, but the thigh isn’t crazy. 11” for a size 30 is straight up skinny jean style and one reason I went to repro fits - (I guess I squat just enough for this to matter). Usually repro cuts are > 11.5”(on the slimmer side) or more for a size 30 and this is measured directly from the crotch. It could be TCB is doing it this way and the FW measurement is 10cm down, or something. I just checked my Freewheelers ‘51 30x30 and they are slightly greater than 12” on the thigh, and that should definitely be a slimmer model than a 30’s model.

@JMS a shop called Klaxon. They only had one left but fortunately it was my size. I didn't dive too aggressively but cursory searches didn't turn up anything else for me in Japan that was still in stock. I saw a few in Europe but they were about $100 more.

It may seem obvious but Rome is a fascinating city and while I would also prefer to spend the majority of my time on the coast I can't imagine a trip that long without a few days there.

I’ve been wearing my blanket lined 1953 pretty consistently lately and had to see if I could find my size in the corduroy SC15463. I found one left and got a deal so I couldn’t pass it up and as soon as I put it on I absolutely do not regret it. For me this is pure nostalgia as I used to wear a much crappier Sherpa corduroy type 3 in college. I told myself no new denim this year, still going strong!

That’s actually just how the world is oriented now.