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Everything posted by julian-wolf

  1. julian-wolf

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    Hemmed short post-wash and worn enough to start fading…aren't they just like $270 new?
  2. julian-wolf

    Sugar Cane Denim

    Don’t know about the rainbow-core fabrics and such, but as to the natural indigo SC40x00 models like those ^, I think they probably just weren’t very profitable—they sold for ¥30k, which is peanuts compared to the hand-dyed natural indigo offerings from most other companies…all the more so for those particular ones, the lot 400, which were also hand-folded and single-needle sewn, etc. They were great as flagship models to show what the company was capable of, but if SC were to make them now they’d probably have to cost twice as much Granted, this is all just speculation
  3. julian-wolf

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    Tempo’s a funny shop Super sterile-feeling inside, and yeah, they carry a weird mix of brands—it doesn’t seem like they have much of a coherent style / identity that they’re going for That said, the staff’s always been helpful & nice when I’ve stopped by, so
  4. julian-wolf


    Agreed—I emailed Ryo to see whether they're cut the same as the regular '50s; if they are, I'll take a 34 and the waist'll stretch, but 4" is really a lot of stretch
  5. julian-wolf


    Oh jeez, that's a no-brainer for me Anyone know what size I'd be in '50s? 33 or 34? Am 33 is most other things, but I guess I've probably gain 10–15 lbs. in the last few months, so… edit: These measurements are out of control: sub-30" waist on a size 34? I know we just went through this with the contest jeans, but there's no way these stretch that much…probably gonna wait 'til other folks have a chance to report in; don't wanna be a guinea pig this time around
  6. julian-wolf

    WAYWT 2020 (Denim Edition)

    First day in a while that’s cool enough for a jacket (first that I’ve left the house, anyway) Lucia LaFerme / Ooe / Orgueil / Hollows / Roy / Lofgren
  7. julian-wolf

    Pandemic Masks

    I've tried a slew of store-bought masks, and my favorites by far have been from Lucia LaFerme, out of Nevada City: https://www.lucialaferme.com/shop/silk-face-mask They're very comfortable, and they're all naturally-dyed with a variety of neat dyestuffs—will aim to take some photos of mine in the next few days
  8. julian-wolf

    Tender Co. Denim

    Hoping this is an okay thread for posting others of William's projects besides Tender (writing that, I realize Whopper and GS/TP have both come up in the past, but I guess I never thought much about it) Got the Rap Promoter cardigan, from this last run of Pop Punch sweaters, in just last week, and thought I might post some photos even though it's still in more or less new condition, just since not many seem to be floating around yet Really happy with it so far; I was worried that the sleeves might be too short for me (this being the case for many main-line Tender offerings), but they're just about perfect, as is the fit through the body. The knit is pretty tight and has done me fine sitting out on my balcony into the night. Not much else to say about it, so far, besides that it's just as pretty in person as in the photos—the depth of color is really something else, in the reddish yarns in particular
  9. julian-wolf

    The Flat Head

    First real update on the S2004; they've seen maybe ~2–3 months as my primary pair of jeans and are starting to show some color These are shaping up to have some of the best hem roping & yoke puckering of any of my jeans—the other contender would the the M41200, but that fabric's so fast-fading that I think I'll end up liking these more in the long run Interestingly, I also think these are the only RHT jeans I've seen that seem to have more twist on the right leg than the left
  10. julian-wolf

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    ^ Who makes that discharge-printed chore coat / overshirt? I have a button-down from Naked & Famous made from the same fabric, and it's a little flashy for every-day wear but every time I put it on I'm impressed by how comfortable it is
  11. julian-wolf

    Seasir - original Okinawan jeans

    Pair of SJ-5 up on Yahoo (looks like an SdA collab?): https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/u389957954 Funny, hadn't ever heard of this brand before, but would be interested in seeing how they wear if anyone's inclined to pick them up… More info: http://denim-gallery.heavy.jp/studio-dartisan/seasirjeans-sj5.html
  12. julian-wolf

    Pandemic Masks

    Besides: One doesn’t wear a mask to protect themselves; they wear a mask to protect everyone else. It’s long been known that masks don’t do much to directly protect the wearer. The survival rate for the elderly is well under your 99.8%, and not everyone I’m interacting with is under 40. (Even if they were, 1/500 really isn’t that small of a number.) @Dan_F, you’re not wrong, but be careful bringing politics into this—even if it’s only tangential (throwing blame at red states, however deservedly), that seems like a slippery slope.
  13. julian-wolf

    Sugar Cane Denim

    The heavyweight Okinawa fabric (used for lots 303, 304, etc.) has less sugar millet in it, but all the standard lot x00 and x01 fabrics are 50/50
  14. julian-wolf

    Sugar Cane Denim

    Both are 50/50 blends, but the fabrics feel and look very different from each other
  15. julian-wolf

    Sugar Cane Denim

    For anyone else interested: got a chance to try these on and they're even slimmer than the measurements suggest, both in the thighs and calves—oh well, still holding out hope that maybe one day they'll use the lot 470 fabric with one of their standard cuts
  16. julian-wolf

    Pandemic Masks

    In June, I found some old light green plain weave raw silk in my scrap fabrics, maybe a quarter yard, and decided the color would go nice with kakishibu; painting ensued, and this was the result as seen while hanging to dry: For reference, a view into the making of the dyestuff (not the same batch—actually, the paste that I used this time was store-bought): Once dry, the silk became a mask, and now, three months later, it's seen a great deal of wear and the the kakishibu has begun to darken significantly with air and light exposure:
  17. No, but it's definitely safe to say that the measurement will be the same from the armpit to the hem
  18. ^ No, it's common for companies to use loopwheeled fabrics but still include side seams in order to add some taper to the body
  19. julian-wolf

    WAYWT 2020 (Denim Edition)

    Lo Def 'cause all of a sudden it's eveningtime Pop Punch / Roy / Birks
  20. julian-wolf

    Unknown Japanese Brands

    Anyone heard of Cloze Jeans? Possibly a McCoys sub-brand
  21. julian-wolf

    Pandemic Masks

    This is a largely reasonable take, and I respect where you're coming from. I shouldn't have lumped you in with the tin foil hatters in the start—when I wrote that post I was frustrated with the derailment of the thread and the state of things at large, and may have been seeing things as a little too black and white. Sorry for that. That having been said, I abhor the notion that following the near-unanimous advice of research scientists amounts to any sort of blind acceptance. The very foundation of the scientific method lies in extensive questioning, in assuming a lack of knowledge until information makes itself undeniably present, in rejecting any form of blind acceptance. This is what makes it so significant to see the clear agreement of the multitude of studies that have now been conducted on this topic. You're right that the whole thing was unclear in March, but it hasn't been March for half a year. Research takes time, and enough time has now passed for the results to be clear. Blind acceptance is no longer necessary: the efficacy of masks can be seen and accepted with open eyes.
  22. julian-wolf

    Pandemic Masks

    I neg repped your post. That was the entirety of my response. It's not at all clear how you're getting from that to "REALLY offended" or "madh", but seriously, you'll have a much better time here if you stop taking everything so personally.
  23. julian-wolf

    Pandemic Masks

    Honestly, yes, I'm offended by your making light of the needless and avoidable deaths of hundreds of thousands of people—but that's far from what I was getting at. That alone wouldn't've warranted a reply, and, while generally in poor taste, your shitty humor definitely doesn't make you a shitty person. What does make you a shitty person is refusing to make adjustments to your life which would aid directly in slowing the spread of a major global pandemic: your actions and the actions of those like you are costing people their lives, and, to put it in terms that you may be more likely to care about, your actions are a primary reason for businesses continuing to be unable to reopen and for the continuing failure of the economy. This isn't about me being offended; it's about me being pissed off that you're getting in the way of me and the rest of the world getting back to our normal lives. Look, if you don't want to wear a mask, don't wear a mask. This thread's not for you. Not everyone on this forum likes wearing watches, so not everyone posts in the watches thread. This really shouldn't be any more complicated than that. (The only difference is that folks choosing not to wear watches aren't harming anyone else in the process, and, again, you very much are.) The benefits of masks are far beyond the point of being questionable within reason. Peer-reviewed results detailing their efficacy in slowing the spread of the disease have been available for months, and are no longer ambiguous. The last paragraph goes for you as well—if you don't want to participate, don't. That said, while I've come to expect this sort of bullshit from Radiohead, and while it makes a lot of sense coming from Duo, I really would have expected better from you, Martin. You always seemed like a fairly level-headed guy. If either of you want somewhere to publicly argue into the void against the explicit recommendations of scientists and public health experts, do it in the COVID thread over on Supertrash, not here.
  24. julian-wolf

    Pandemic Masks

    You’re a real shitty guy, @Radiohead89
  25. julian-wolf

    Pandemic Masks

    Hah, you got me—fair and a square A couple of reasons for the choice of fabric: First, as a material, silk is very appealing since it conducts moisture well and tends to stay cool. Most silks are really no fun at all to work with, though, because of how slippery they are; meanwhile, raw has pull that’s much more similar to cotton—and, conveniently, it’s relatively low-cost. From there it amounts to choosing a weave—if I had access to a 1x1 or 1x2 plainweave that would have been my preference, so as to minimize air transmission (my favorite mask is made from a plainweave raw silk, and it feels like it “breathes” just as well when it comes to heat & moisture management while likely doing a marginally better job with preventing disease transmission), but this herringbone twill was the tightest option that I had available, and it seems likely that it’ll do just fine. Second, a big part of my reason for getting back into making masks, after having initially burnt out some time around May, is to have more things to dye—I really like dyeing, but I can only wear so many socks…so masks seemed like a good alternative. Dyeing animal fibres is much simpler than dyeing plant fibres (plant fibres require pre-treatment with tannin mordants in order to be made fast, a process that was sometimes known as “animalization” of the fibres before we figured out all the boring science of it…which I think is just super neat), which again made silk seem like the obvious choice. This sort of answers your other question, too: many natural dyes can very easily be made colorfast to silk, meaning that these will do fine with regular trips through the wash (though I do prefer air-drying, for the benefit of the fibres).
  • Alan Crocetti Silver Nose Plaster
    $US 342