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Cleaned up my trusty Rag & Bone Indy clones. Did a little digging and found that Grenson had a factory in Brooklyn around the time these were made and along with a few other clues it seems my long running mystery of who made these amazing boots is finally solved.

Generally the "work" type shirts will fill fuller than the "cowboy" type shirts...? I have a few pounds too many and I fit fine in Iron Heart or SDA denim work shirts.

I unstitched the tab on my 25th anniversary pair and after a few washes the tab was trashed.

Surprise delivery of the new late 40s jeans today. This is a straightforward straight leg, high rise fit that's going to check a lot of people's boxes. I took a size 36 on these which is 1 size up from my typical TCB size, I'd say these come up slim relative to the tag size.

^ Mine didn’t. When I first unpicked the stitching the tab felt quite weak and flimsy but over time and washes, it somehow seems to have tightened up and become more resilient.

@jkbrwn Ah I see. I thought you meant brown fabric, rather than stitching. In any case, I'm a fan of the FC WW2 cuts. I have pants & jacket from the last version they did in the recent past.

Howdy y’all - long time no post as usual. Maybe there was some talk about the stitched-down red tabs some time ago and I’m failing to remember. Do the tabs deteriorate quickly if the stitching is undone?

@CSL I believe they're referring to the new WW2 version. First two links with standard cotton thread. Second two links with thread cut. I have both but am yet to get either of them into rotation. They both look great on first impressions though. https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/products/reservation-page-scheduled-to-ship-on-10-25-full-count-s2107w-24-ww2-model-brown-cotton-denim-pants https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/products/reservation-page-scheduled-for-shipping-on-10-25-full-count-s2107w-2-1ww2-model-brown-cotton-denim-jacket https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/products/full-count-s2107w-24-threads-cut-ww2-model-brown-cotton-denim-jacket https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/products/full-count-s0105w-24-threads-already-cut-ww2-model-brown-cotton-denim-pants

I have the FC WW2 jeans (not brown) & TCB 50s. The TCB 50s proved too low rise for me & are consequently for sale (size 36😉). The Fullcount are much roomier in the top block, & wider in the leg. Much more my cup of tea although many here love the TCB 50s. PS. I didn't know there were brown denim FCs. Tempting... (Where are you seeing those?)

Thank you! Yes indeed this is Levant Red in the foreground (bright red Shetland and a natural white yarn), and the background is Agate Blue (dark blue and natural black yarn): For reference size 3 chest is 21" not including the gussets, and the full length is 27". Please just email me if you'd like full measurements.

Really interesting, thanks for sharing. Is the red color the same as you're wearing in the seasonal lookbook? What is the length and chest measurement on these?

FW are making shirts up to size 18 now - I don't know if that's for all shirts but worth a look

Stunning photos! and jeans are looking beautiful. I got bitten by a big dog once (not sure what kind), hurt like hell and drew blood but just kind of mangled the fabric, didn't make as nice of a tear as yours. I hope you've recovered well. It's been a long time since some in depth factory photos, here's some from a woollen spinning factory, in preparation for the yarn that went into AW24 Tacuinum Pullovers and Cardigans, and Paper Boat hats. These photos are of "woollen" spinning, as opposed to "worsted" spinning. Worsted spinning is a more refined process where the fibres are made to lie more smoothly, and is typically used for worsted suit fabrics, where as woollen spinning (two Ls!) gives a fluffier yarn more normally used for knitwear or coarser tweed woven fabrics. For these Shetland-type yarns a slightly uneven colour is preferable, so a blend of different coloured fibres are used. The wool fibre is dyed under pressure, which could also damage finished yarn, so it's better to do the dyeing right at the beginning. The yarn designer has a library of colours: what was going through during my visit was a greenish tweed yarn with flecks of other colours. Even though the yarn will end up looking pretty classic, seeing the fibre mix is an eyeopener: The yarn is all mixed together in a big barrow, so that the colours are randomly dispersed. They're then fed up into the long carding process: the wool fluff is pulled through a succession of spiked rollers, in a stream, and as they go through the fibres start to lay inline with each other: until eventually the stream of fibre has enough body to be pulled off the carding rollers into a sort of loose scarf called a sliver: here's a closeup: the sliver gets pulled around a corner and flattened out again, which continues to straighten the fibres through another length of the room, until it's ready to be separated, like this: the stream of fibres is run through slightly tacky, static-charged rubber belts, which pull between sharply defined metal grooves, cutting the stream into ~1" wide sections. In the picture above, my guide has pulled out on of these sections- you can see that it's only barely holding together. however: Spinning itself will happen later. For now the narrow slivers are gently wound up onto cones, so that they can be put into the spinning process. Here are a couple more pictures- at this stage what looks like yarn is still just sliver under very slight tension. The brown rollers are also slightly tacky, which helps everything move through, but these run quite slow and at very carefully controlled tension to avoid snapping. At this point we'll switch over to a blend of natural undyed British wool, which is actually much closer to what I ended up using, but is less dramatic in the blending: these wrapped slivers are moved over into the spinning room, where they are set up over vertical spinning cones, to put twist into the slivers, under a higher tension, and create usable yarn: this is ringspun yarn, and that little loop in the wire over the pink cone top is the ring which the yarn is spun through, bouncing it around and giving it surface character. Now I'd originally enquired about spinning a blended natural grey with a blended blue- these yarns with this result: But while it's a beautiful thing it seemed a bit anticlimactic and subdued, so in the end I made a 2-ply yarn combined of a pure bright colour and a pure natural colour. Here are the results:

Selvedge-Induced Clip Art

Same same Great Lakes x2 / Power Wear / Cane’s / Russell

You can see it across a fair smattering of pairs so I think it’s safe to assume it’s the denim rather than a washing technique.

I’ll try and get around to taking better pics but here are my 47’s after about a year and a half of wear.

Is Denime denim susceptible to the "veiny" fades, or is that just the washing technique?

https://freewheelers.co.jp/about/brand/great_lakes.html This is (briefly) what the Great Lakes sub brand is about. It’s a fairly wide ranging idea, but if you dig a little you’ll start to understand the concepts and even the garment construction which is often quite different (this is something each sub brand will demonstrate).

@julian-wolf - ah - that makes a ton more sense. Thank you! I saw the US Forest Service jacket they did and thought it was cool but a bit too on the nose, living in a town within a National Forest - ha. Would like it without the FS stencil, though!

Im sure there is denim in the room

Simone needs to work on his Photoshop skills. 😂

Had a similar situation, I booked a campsite for two nights I thought. My boy and I on our annual biketrip. came back from a day out, there was a big ass tent squeezed on “our” spot. i was like I don’t care , but the big ass tent family were waving their booking. so when they didn’t pay attention I checked my reservation. Turns out I made a wrong booking. put the tail between my legs and moved our tent. me and my boy swapped clothes , to try and confuse Mrs smooth sailor. his oversized clothing fit me fine. my clothes fit him better than on me. next generation their turn