Alec Leamas

Interesting to hear everyone’s views. And reassuring to hear the level of obsession throughout. @bod this is intriguing, I shall make a note of them and potentially use in future. @willi I’m way too short to go the same route. And with the obsession with the hem comes the need to have it on show, either uncuffed completely, or cuffed once. Another perfect example would be TCB, they’ve got it 100% nailed. From my somewhat basic research (and hours of obsession), I believe it to be a combination of the size of the folder on the machine, and how well the machine is actually maintained and run. I think with Inoue san having worked on the machines for so many years, TCB’s are very well “tuned” (please excuse the non expert terminology!!) This is getting way off thread topic sorry mods!

@tooth I've reflected on and obsessed over this for an undue amount of time given how little time I've actually been invested in repro denim / Americana / MiJ stuff in general. To the point though now that I know what I like and where to get that - and it's always direct from the makers of the jeans themselves, either the factory hem or the hemming provided by the maker of the jeans when ordering. The best examples of this being Fullcount and Warehouse. I've found that the hems I have had from other places, while still good, have not been rolled as tight, or at that goldilocks width. Having had what I see as the perfect hem, it's hard to be satisfied with anything else.

For what it's worth, and this is probably not much now given you already have them in hand - Full Count hem pairs bought direct from them and their hemming matches the factory hems very closely. @beautiful_FrEaK I did not know that! Thank you for the info!

@space_cowboy just to add further intrigue, but also to possibly solve the mystery, those 2 pairs are different inseam lengths! (something I actually didn't know FC did!!)...so they likely will be from two different production runs. All FC jeans are one-wash processed now, or mostly anyway, so I imagine it's hard to control the outcome of that. Sticking a tonne of pairs of jeans into an industrial washer and washing and spinning them must produce a really wide variety of outcomes. I admit though that is a drastic difference! My 0105s came with a patch more like your top example there.

Felco are a brand stocked by All Blues near me and their quarter zips (actually called half zips by the brand) look pretty good: https://allbluescostore.com/product/felco-half-zip-collar-sweat-12oz-french-terry-pigment-navy/ This faded blue one looks good, but there's a few different colours in stock. Having held them they seem pretty robust!

Those Beckmans look lovely!

I missed this! Someone else actually linked me to their site as well in the end. I do love the look of these, the thing that put me off from grabbing some (I was virtually there!) was the shipping cost. If I was more in the market for a pair at this point it would need to be via proxy, which wouldn't probably end up much less to be fair.

Buzz Rickson Uniqlo jumper Warehouse 1001XX 25th Anniversary John Lofgren M43

@AlientoyWorkmachine they're looking great!! Despite all the shortcomings with robustness etc, I still prefer a well worn Warehouse pair over any other!!

@Jared_Lee haha wow - I spent a chunk of my youth collecting reggae vinyl and attending reggae dance's, inspired very much by a close friend's older brother who was a reggae DJ (eventually I and my closer friends all got into DJing - such a wonderful time). Anyway - these 3 were obviously some of our favourites (notwithstanding the questionable politics/views) - seems like Capleton still has it very much locked down, not so sure about Sizzla or Barrington though! Thanks for sharing, you've encouraged a huge wave of nostalgia!

@willi this is probably not helpful as I believe they're only UK based, but after years of buying and wearing out cheap crap frames I bought some glasses from Cubitts, they're hefty, stylish and feel like they will last a long time - I've had them coming up for a year now and no complaints at all - even with children constantly stealing them from my face and being not so delicate with them, and working out and running in them, drenching them thoroughly with sweat. They offer a free service after a year too which I'm looking forward to, just for a deep clean and to tighten up the temples now I've worn them in properly. I have it on good faith that Moscot NYC are as good as this, and also Cutler and Gross, which are UK based but have an NYC store. Sorry if none of that is useful.

@jkbrwn nope that was not me my friend. As nice as the jeans sound!

Seems to be domestic-ish pricing though so maybe fill your boots! Even if there is a bit of pasta on the product!

Those look great! Are they a new model? I have an older WW2 model (lot 203) with HBT pockets etc

Front and back shot because I'm wearing the 1001XX-25 for the first time (maybe not properly first but first waywt with them!) Kamakura Buzz Rickson Belt Warehouse 1001XX-25 Alden LHS

Drakes cap Cushman // Warehouse 4601 Denime 220XX-47 Alden LHS

That really is some beautiful scenery, what a great way to spend the day!

Yeah no worries at all I suspected all that was the case. I was just thinking it would keep our appetites whetted seeing maybe a new and used of each cut, but totally understand all the above. …and I would certainly not want to tempt a delay!!

That’s what I’m after, clean cut all the way down, looks great! I’ve been second guessing my size and hem choices a little bit but if I’ve nailed this fit then I am good to go. I was wondering if he would mind indulging us all in some suitably nerdy detail shots of each of the cuts being worn in the contest? I don’t imagine he has a tonne of spare time right now but I’m sure we would all be very grateful!

Variations on a workplace elevator theme.. Drake’s / Buzz Rickson Denime Alden LHS / PTB

They are really nice! Chose the red as I like how red sweats fade, leaving the stitching still a more vivid red while the jersey washes out.

Nothing much more to add there apart from yes I fully agree it's actually hilarious on there.

+ that’s a Denime raglan sleeve hoodie too! Unplanned believe it or not.

Anyhow, here are the 220XX-47’s, about 2 months in. Suppose this is very topical given the discussion about fast fading! They are starting to look a lot like the Warehouse banner denim 🫠

They look great! Accurate sole unit too. Also wide foot magic sounds good to me!