Duke Mantee

The reference jackets are my first gen 506 and 507 from about a decade ago … so yeah, I doubt very much any of those are left in store anywhere. The Bootleggers 213 is even shorter. My more recent 506 (1927, War etc) are all similar in length to the original issue 506 … there are slight variances but as most folk know, I’m not the one to be measuring garments to the last millimetre - if you need to do that you’ve already got the wrong item.

Depends on the 507XX - 1st gen Type 2 were similar in length to Type 1, but some time back FW thought it a good idea to lengthen the base models by about an inch (to be more wearable) and they became the 2nd gen I haven’t looked at Speedways measurements but I’ve found them to be a little lazy in their size charts

Thank you very much

neither as good as the Skagit, and neither are flannel (that vintage shirt doesn’t look like flannel?) but … Jelado Ciggy Warehouse Lot 3039

Hermann Oak with steel buckle, brass and nickel plated steel spots and vintage glass

Amazing detail you’ve crammed into that little 6x4” diorama

Couple more one from the very underrated Walpier Buttero Rocky leather … and one from the very much overrated Horween CXL

If it works - it works, no argument there. I’m just advocating the use of more ‘natural’ ingredients as a preference

If you feel the need to condition a patch just use any decent conditioning product you shouldn’t really get any residue - just use a tiny amount, most folk probably overdo it re. application quantities. And I guess the next question would be ‘what’s a decent conditioning product?’ … Saphir, Renapur, Smiths, Sedgwick … and many more. Try to avoid any that use alcohols or petrols. And use solid form or thick liquid form conditioners … they’re easier to use less of. The thin runny stuff will encourage you to flood the leather

http://blog.livedoor.jp/mcfly_store/archives/50708442.html http://www.realmoon.co.jp/item/1622009/ http://www.realmoon.co.jp/item/1722002/ http://www.realmoon.co.jp/item/2022008/ Here’s a few I can remember - there’s probably more (other than the recent ones shredwin mentioned). Some will be sold out

You’ll need to be more specific about the type of beer

Good job fella - especially as you’re getting on a bit. But it looks great!

Truthfully? A lot less expensive using exactly the same leather Edit to add: as are my other leather goods despite being genuinely hand made

I don’t get why they would do this - surely it damages your reputation to make something as bad as IH?

Well if anyone is asking they can have yours first - you need the money to be the Illustrated Man

Look no further Cordovan, or pretty much any other type of leather (You are quite right about CXL though)

Now I’ll have to reduce my price to £200 as well … fucker

Solid brass buckle and keeper (and extra leather keeper) on Sedgwick London Tan (not Laandaan Taan) bridle, 7 holes in ¾” grouping and beeswax finish

Possibly - France (and Germany) outlawed imported indigo … Henry VI ordered the death penalty for anyone defying his edict but the bans were lifted a couple of centuries later - indigo was better for big business even then. But woad was still popular in local/cottage industries so who knows?

I washed a FW denim jacket at 90°C - shrank about a half size tops and utterly destroyed the patch. Waste of time IMO - if the weave is loose you’ll get more shrinkage but it’ll change the hand of the fabric probably irreversibly

The smell of my jeans is part of the development … especially since I go commando

Yes that’s correct - some leathers are struck through, some aren’t Tea-core has been mythologised into an actual leather type and very often is also used in a qualitative aspect … utter nonsense The phrase has been bastardised from a simple figurative description of how a leather colour shows through the surface finish

It is Any in any event the plating will only be a couple microns tops - it’ll make next to no difference regarding heat. File under the same nonsense at shiny/matte sides of aluminium foil