Duke Mantee

Here’s the reference bag … which does not use CF Stead Repello nor is it hand made https://www.printemps.com/uk/en/jerome-dreyfuss-leon-m-leather-tote-bag-brown-women-7940848?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwgdayBhBQEiwAXhMxtucbjs_OYUh4kzfIGz66uYddb4ds7n0KZXLqWSpXhHxQJtnRsDvaohoCEGQQAvD_BwE#5083802

CF Stead Repello Calf backed with Russet (Crust) Calfskin finished with Horween CXL Staps and binding and solid brass rivets and snaps

Exactly so - if the top block of a pair of 22s is bigger than a pair of 51s, I’m not going to size down looking to transform them into the same ‘fit’. Everyone has their own approach but I am truly baffled by the endless queries around how 5mm makes a difference 🤷‍♂️

Jeans being waist overalls until the 60s Finding the perfect fit now basically results in buying denims with such particular dimensions it nullifies the cut / pattern

The measurements will be different ‘pulled’ - that being the reason I asked, and unless you wear your denims very loose then I believe it’s necessary to acknowledge the full dimensions since that’s how they’ll fit your waist. I’ve posted many times previously on this … I’ve ALWAYS found FW to meet tag size, but clearly there are multiple methods of measurement.

This is by far the thickest belt I’ve decorated - J&FJ Baker oak tanned bridle @ nearly 15oz, with ultra heavy solid brass buckle, brass hardware, cobra overlays, onyx and tiger eye gemstones, and antique Japanese coin

I measure with the denims pulled tight across the waist

I’ve never had (or heard of) a pair of FW denims shrink like that - over 2 inches?! Wow

Cut that leather patch off mate

Capturing character and spirit is really the position I’ve always adopted. I really don’t mind the wonky or sloppy stitching so much as I bother about the method of how it is being (re)produced. Why does it take many hours of work to make something that was originally made in a fraction of the time? An exact replica is a tremendous achievement … further ‘replicas’ starts to diminish that achievement (and it can only be an exact replica on a tag size for tag size, other sizes are not replicas they are approximations). Mostly though I enjoy reading everyone’s positions on this.

Isn’t that exactly the opposite of how world war wonkiness works?

So every single piece in every size of this production run is identical in detail?

I’m not sure 😂 … it does kinda reinforce a lot of what I’ve said about FW denim

‘Borrowed’ from someone I ‘know’ from IG A really nice pic of a pair of FW beside another brand

No, the leather isn’t under any more stress than it is on the main seams around the bag. It’s a fairly normal method to make a gusset.

@srudy - that’s a beautiful sun tan … love it!

Thanks John Walpier call it Foresta - I call it chocolate … most browns have strong red undertones, this doesn’t

Wickett & Craig harness and Japanese hardware except the brass saddlers rivets … amazing how much harder brass is than the traditional copper

Freewheelers Goldminer in Vintage 9oz Cotton (60%) / Linen (40%) Indigo Denim It’s been washed once and worn a few times but it’s not unfair to say it is near new condition Size 40 As ever, any fair offer will be considered

Bootleggers 213 from about 20 years ago - you all know it’s rare as hen’s teeth and it’s actually the only one I’ve ever seen. Size 40 The leather patch is gone, and the fading is heavier in some areas but there’s a ton of life in it yet - the denim is in great condition, it’s not getting thin or frayed in any area Happy to listen to any fair offer

I very much appreciate you asking and the trust you put in me - thank you very much

Not as much as you think - the earlier ones were catch up I hadn’t got ‘round to posting because of one thing or another

One for @Geeman Abbey England brass buckle - last foundry doing this in the UK now I think - and Walpier Buttero Rocky

Same saying is used here 👍

Thanks Paul … I just buy the coins ready made - I don’t have your metal work skills