indigoeagle

I've been discussing this a little with @beautiful_FrEaK, a simple overview of the jeans mostly focussed upon here, i.e. from 36 to 55. We noticed that the 47 has of course been widely discussed, as have in the recent years the different WWII and 46 models. On the different 50s models there hasn't been that much discussion, I found. These are, I think, the main characteristics regarding denim and cut. 36/37: probably the widest fit (thigh, knee, hem) dark denim denim relatively smooth stitch colour: mostly tobacco/orange (LVC has some lemon/yellow in it) 42: two versions, one with cinch, one without, already coarser WWII denim stitch colour: yellow WWII: different versions, but generally higher rise, wider in the thigh and knee, a little tapered, dark denim relativel coarse (neepy and slubby to various degrees) denim stitch colour: yellow 46/47: Rise a little lower than the WWIIs Upper thight a little less than WWIIs, knee similar to WWIIs, hem wider than WWIIs, thus straighter, hardly any taper less dark denim, more blue relatively smoother denim stitch colour: orange and yellow 47 tab one sided (katamen) 50s- there seem to be three main model: 1951, 1953 and 1954 (and on) 1951- little lower rise compared with the 47, similar thigh, less knee and hem denim again a bit brighter similar denim to 47 stitching is mostly brown with some yellow tab both sided (ryomen) 1953- the year the type 2 jacket was introduced while the 51 became slimmer in the knee and hem than the 47, the 53s got wider than the 47s again in the knee and hem denim seems similar to 47 and 51 stitching is mostly brown with some yellow (rainbow stitching) with the arcs from the WH version in yellow shorter side stiches no more selvedge in the coin pocket narrower v-stitch tab both sided (ryomen) 1954- very similar to the 1953 according to the WH models the hem is a little wider switch to more mass production had the back middle belt loop move a bit to the left, offset --> easer to sew as the material/fabric is not as thick the WH model still has the leather patch, later switch to paper patch yarn colours like 53 model 1956- The FW model is even slimmer than the 1951 one, knee and hem Now while the FWs, TCB and WH 50s models I checked all had mainly brown stitching with some yellow (waist, arcs, ...) the 50s models of Cushman (lot 22177) and also Joe McCoy (905S) have mostly yellow stitching. Cushman Joe McCoy So where there models in the 50s with mostly brown stitching and others with mostly yellow? Or is this based on specific year models? Perhaps something is stated in the 501 book. Here are some helpful measurements and overview graphics from the Duke.

Ashoes&Son from Saitama Founded in 1995, apparently for 20 years mostly a fashion shop, then after acquiring the necessary skills and machines offering repairs and making denim items. I saw a few items in this shop like a type 1, WWII type 1, WWII jeans and these '47 type ones. Their web address is stated as ahoes.co.jp , but I couldn't get it io work. But here is their rakuten shop. And they also offer all kinds of repairs and hemming services.

That looks great. Since May- did you wear them nearly every day?

Great fit on the FW 51s. And the Trickers are lovely.

Ah, the latter half 1942s with the crotch rivet and the denim pocket bags.

Is that also the recent Uplander (over)shirt?

I got the 51s in 33 1.5 years ago when I was still looking for slimmer fits. They fit me fine everywhere except for the hips (waist stretched enough to be fine). So kind of "stress whiskers". The 34 would probably fit me very well everywhere. But since I'm now into more comfortable wider fits I got them in 36. And they fit very well with a belt. No matter, how much research there will always be an element of trial and error.

An amazing "comeback". Thanks

I didn't know, what a gusset is in German, so I looked it up: it's called "Zwickel". Had never heard that word before. There is also a kind of beer called "Zwickl", which is a test siphoning off, a sample of the young beer, before filtration, which is a beer in its own right now. In this case Zwickl refers to the tap through which the beer is siphoned off. Not sure, if these two words are related.

Did you also have a pair of the WH DD 47s? And if so, how would you compare them denim and fit wise? Also interested to hear about the difference in fit between the Denime 47s and 54s.

Talking about the Black Klondike leather. I just saw this pic of the 9870, which is the Irish Setter Round Toe in Klondike. The owner had the crepe wedge sole changed to a Beckman style. They have about ten years of wear. In the Beckmans of ten years or so ago there was also a black version, the 9014 in that Featherstone leather.

Interesting. So for the 14.5oz it's basically all the same denim. And that would be Texas cotton, right? Like stated here For the newer wider models (FN D 110, 111, 112) it says Zimbabwean cotton here and also here. And Selfedge states that the model D111 is left hand twill. All the D11.versions have the suffix XXX on the patch.

Anyone familiar with Cruxdeluxe? They have good looking boots. But I'm still unsure about the sizing for the Boondockers.

Apparently the Klondike is shinier than the Black Prairie and the contrast is also bigger with the Klondike between the black and brown.

What about the "dosha buri"? Do you think it's the same Pioneer denim- which has always been famous for vertical fading -and they want to stress this or has the denim been reformulated so to speak in order to amplify this effect?

Is anyone knowledgeable on the black Red Wing leathers? For engineers the main ones seem to be RW Chrome and Klondike. The fades look a bit different. 2268 from the 90s with Chrome leather The 2966 with Klondike leather. The 9060 is a flat toe Beckmans, also with Klondike. It was recently offered in US stores and last year in some European shops in relation with the Munich store anniversary. But it's mostly sold out now. It has been available in Japan for many years. I think, it was also RW Japan, that had developed it. Mr Suzuki of Two Monkeys and Ol Shanks amongs other had a hand in it, if I remember correctly. Perhaps we'll see it in the European shops next year. Not sure, how popular it would be. It also looks nice worn.

Does anyone know the difference between the current (I think) FN-3005 (with the bandana) with the dosha buri suffix and the FN-3500 N1 XXX? The first one has this patch and the second one this The first one has lemon coloured arcs and both lemon and tobacco stitching, the arcs on the N1XXX are in tobacco and the stitching looks to me like tobacco and light tobacco. Also the first is O/W and the second N/W. Is the denim the same? The cut? Any experience how much the N1XXX will shrink? I've got the first one here in 36 and 38. I find they fit rather small. It took a bit of effort to close the 36. Also not much space in the thighs. I find both denims very nice. The first O/W a bit fuzzy, quite dark, some thicker warps already visible. For the stated 14.5 oz quite comfy. The N/W is a bit ligher, blue greyish. Not sure, if it will the same as the other after a wash.

Their standard one is the XX denim (47, 51, etc.). With original here I think they mean that it has been developed exclusively by them and for them. So, 22 jacket - 33 jacket and 37 jeans all use the same red cast "original" denim

I found this description at McFly for the 506XX '22: "The fabric is the original 14 oz indigo denim. Compared to the classic 1947 model 506XX, this indigo denim is darker and has a reddish color."

Wow So we got in those years: 1937 XXC- red cast denim 1942- WWII denim 1943- "standard" denim, OD HBT pocket bags 1944-45- WWII denim, OD HBT pocket bags 1945- WWII denim, red (not sure, if several colours) buffalo check flannel pocket bags 1947- "standard" denim I think, FW hasn't released a 1946 pair (yet)?? Edit: I've just seen, that there was also a 1946 pair. Released in March 2020. It has the same fabric as the 1947 one. But with all yellow stitching, iron buttons with clear finish vs. the later white painted ones and also with buffalo check flannel pocket bags but in a mustard colour.

So, the 43 is standard denim. And the other WWII models- 1944-45 with the OD HBT pockets and the 1945 with the flannel pockets- are the slubbier denim (stronger vertical fading), same as the recent 1942?

They really are fading very fast. I haven't worn them much. But they're probably my most faded pair of the <than two years' ones. Indigo neoprene suit?

That could be the answer. Possibly a teaser for upcoming models? After all they could release the same range as LVC. So very likely a 1937 model, perhaps 47, 55, 66. And why not 51 and 53.

I'm quite happy with my Julius Tart Opticas. Also Harman Optical. Tart Optical Arnel are also very nice.