indigoeagle

I think, you need to switch delivery address to US to see.

More interesting info from Dr Heech: "Well from 1936 the back pocket rivets were covered and the tab was introduced. The jeans were given the lot number 501XXC. Some pairs made in 1936 had machine pressed suspender buttons, probably customer led requests. In 1937 the first 501xx with a pocket flasher was introduced, informing customers about the non scratch 'concealed copper' rivets still being there albeit hidden. Around 1939/1940 the yoke construction on the back of the jeans was reversed. Around 1941 a black buckle replaced the standard copper/silver one. Black stitching was used to sew the waistband on the 501 sometimes in the early 1940s, just before America's involvement in the war. In April (I think?) of 1942, the second pocket flasher was introduced informing customers about the non scratch 'concealed pocket' rivets still being there on this, the last 501 with a cinch strap before the war. Copper had stopped being used on this model. The most important feature though is the reversal of the back yoke seam construction becoming the standard just before the first war model in December 1942 (S501XX)."

SInce there are plenty of models available (or were at one point) and we already have some discussions in various threads, I thought, it would be fun to have a dedicated thread to the 30s cinch back models to share fit pics, fades and the different models of the various makers. According to TCB it is differentiated roughly between the early, mid and late 1937 models. These are the main difference of the models as our resident scholar on this matter Dr Heech had written before here: "Lvc 1937 at the bottom, Csf 1941 in the middle and FW42's at the top. Both the repro 37 and 42 models have the standard yoke set up, whereas the pair in the middle do not. The standard yoke set up is what we are used to seeing on 501's made from August 1942 up until the present day which sees the bottom panels overlap the top ones, like on the lvc 37's and FW42's shown." So the yoke: 1937- right over left 1941- top over bottom 1942- back to standard from then on bottom over top and left over right. Some issues of the last years: TCB 30s Jeans C Vintage pair of Mr Koizumi from TCB site: Freewheelers Lot.601 XXC 1937 WAREHOUSE - HINOYA EXCLUSIVE - HINOYA 75th Anniversary Model - 1003HXX-DSB Freewheelers Lot 601 XX 1942 SUGAR CANE Super “Denim” Collectibles Lot No. SC49005 BLUE DENIM WAIST OVERALLS “1942” Cushman 22192 1937 MODEL

The 1937 jeans recently became available. 13.5OZ XX DENIM, One Wash For their construction the following sewing machines have been used: 本縫い SINGER 31-20 Adler 167 二本針本縫い Durkop 249 二本針巻き縫い Unionspecial35800DQ 1本針チェーン Unionspecial 11500 裾上げ Unionspecial 11500G オーバーロック Unionspecial 39500 ボタンホール SINGER 99W ベルトループ Unionspecial 6900H バータック SINGER 69-8 They have been made for Cushman by rebuilt. There is also a type 1 jacket coming up. It looks like it will also be made by rebuilt.

Good. Probably the type 1 Lot 231XX-47 (1947 MODEL) is also a different denim, i.e. the Kurabo brownish weft Banner denim.

Jackets seem to be the same, no? Lot 232 (possibly also the 3rd type 233) is the thicker standard/basic denim (like 220A). And the others (47 and 54) are the brown weft Kurabo banner denim.

If I remember correctly, the company Evisu was sold to a Chinese company a few years ago.

Regarding the different denim fabrics. Here is a interesting comparison of the WH 1936 type 1 model Lot 2001XX(2000XX) (which was first released around three years ago, Jan. 2022; ca. 13.7oz, I couldn't find any exact weight number, it's stated as 7.5x 7.5 pink selvedge in Dead Stock Blue) and the Duck Digger Standard Type 1 Lot DD-2001 (in Banner denim 13.5oz, 7x7). As can be seen from ca. 00:37 onwards the 1936 DSB on the left is more blue, while the DD banner denim type 1 on the right is more red cast, they even say purple. The DSB they say is meant to resemble a new old stock denim, that has been sleeping somewhere for decades, while the banner denim is supposed to be close to what vintage denim looks like.

Thanks I hadn't been aware, that that flannel lined jacket had only four buttons. Nice- 1946.

Which jacket was this? With the pocket flap, but still only four buttons?

Thanks, beautiful nature around me probably has helped and the uncanny skills of my friend who took the pic

Recently stumbled upon these: Good Old Co.. They have a 1943XX jeans. And a 1942XX denim jacket.

It seems many brands have at least these two different types: Like FC their normal and the XX. FWs the standard denim (51 and 47 (with different dyeing) and the WWII one (plus the 1937 one) and Jelado the White Tag Last Resort (more 50s, blueish, softer) and Black Tag Last Resort (40s, a bit heavier and coarser) among others.

I find in the colder weather here in Northern Europe around 0C I prefer the slightly heavier WWII denim. When it gets a bit warmer the Banner denim is perhaps a bit more comfortable to wear. What is interesting is, that the denim and the DSB seem to be two different parts. For instance the 1942 pair is of the WWII denim and with the DSB, while the 1944 pair seems to be the same denim but is not advertised as DSB. They look a bit differently with the non-DSB being a bit darker, which makes sense since the DSB is supposed to reflect some oxidisation from many decades of storage.

The 1942 model came out like two or three years ago. It was reissued half a year ago or so. Both the 1942 model and the DD 1944 model are the WWII denim:6.7番×6.6番 14.5oz. Also the recent Hinoya 75th anniversary model (1003HXX-DSB) is in that denim. As well as the the 25 year anniversary S1001XX (1946). I like it quite a lot. It's quite sturdy and coarser. The denim varieties are still quite confusing to me. We know there is the banner denim (three state) (one DD 1947 a.o. in that) and the heavier XX memphis denim (like the 800XX and 900XX as well as the Lot 1001 Heavy Ounce). And then there are two pink selvedge denim: one a bit lighter 7.5x7.5 and one a bit heavier: the above mentioned 6.7x6.6. It seems that they can come in DSB or not. I think the war models are all in the heavier one. Models like the Lot 1001XX(1000XX)【1954 MODEL】and the Lot 1001XX(1000XX)【1947MODEL】are in the lighter one. Recently I read about a new denim. And if I recall correctly there was also a orange selvedge denim ;D

Interesting. Is the 41 the same as the Hinoya 75th year anniversary, i.e. reversed yoke? And the 42 with the denim pocket bags and the crotch rivet?

Good choice to use that opportunity. We've had mostly overcast skies, all grey, for the last three months. Sometimes (like once a week) you get a bit of blue sky in the morning, but by noon it's somehow grey again.

Great Especially lovely the mostly blue sky.

I have just tried on the super smooth 0105 in 33. And I found them much wider than my "normal" 0105 in 34. I then checked the measurements on the maker site and it confirmed, what I had noticed. But perhaps this pair was a bit wider. Not sure. But good to hear that you found them to fit basically the same. I think, it has been stated by some users here that they found the waist to fit about one size bigger. So I'll probably stick with the 33 in these.

Are the Super Smooth wider in the thighs? From the FC site: 1101 XX 34- watari- 30.5cm 1101SuperSmooth- 34- watari- 33cm Hem is also 0.5cm wider.

Sure, welcome. Previously 32-34. These past two years 34 or 36, due to some weight gain and a new preference for more comfortable fits. FW1937 fit me well in 33. But FW1951 good fit would be 34, but I got the 36 for a wider, comfy fit. This could also be said for most WH jeans (34 and 36).

I got them in XL. These days I tend to go for the larger size. They don't fit too large. L might have been too slim. I also got the Overland Campaign Trousers in 36. The Keystone sweatshirt, which is a nice heavy weight, with a vintage fit in XL. All great stuff.

Colimbo Bear Country Lumberjack Pants (Paraffin duck)

Junky often has bigger sizes. Also for the new WH shirts, special order. But many already sold out there.

Orgueil T-shirt • TFH • WH DD Lot 2001 • WH DD Lot 1001XX (1947)